Day 85 - Duncannon, Pennsylvania

Longshanks and Murph at The Doyle

Dave, Smittee, et al. “tore it up” at the bar last night. Good thing beer is cheap here. Actually, the gang mostly hung out on the second floor porch. Stray Cat had gotten drunk early in celebration of his 30th birthday.

I wasn’t much in a drinking mood. Had my pineapple pizza, read for a while, and went to bed. Slept well, despite the insects coming in through the screen-less window. Major thunderstorms during the night. Glad we weren’t in them. Motivation factor was extremely low, and it didn’t take much to convince us to stay another night.

Had breakfast at the diner across the street. Got a ride to the supermarket. All the usual errands that suck up the day. Rained off and on. Bunch of people came into town -- Moose, Smiles and Fiddlehead, Moonshine, Longway, Bad Moon, Lion King, the King… Going to be interesting getting out of town. 

Tried to figure out when we’re going to be in Mass. so we can get started on plans for the cookout/clambake. I decided on the 21st, which I think is very realistic (had to make it a Saturday).

May have to push it a little at the end, but that’s OK. Mom and Dad seem excited about our arrival in Mass. It will be weird to see everyone.

Got dinner at the pizza place again. Dave was talking about what it will be like to deal with life in the “real world” (or off the trail) again. Wonder how I’ll react. Will I go back to all my old ways? Will I be mellower? More appreciative of the little things in life? I hope so. Shared the room with Swagman and Smittee. Oh, Deuce ½ shaved her head. It looks good, but I'm not sure I'd have the guts to go through with it.

Day 84 - ATC Campsite to Duncannon

Ended up being a good night, for me anyway. Those earplugs even blocked the sound of the train 20 feet away.

Up at 5:45, and it was already light. Felt good to be up that early and taking advantage of the day.

Walked into Boiling Springs at 6:30. Cute town with big pond and lots of geese roaming around. Met a dentist who was asking lots of questions about the trail. He even invited us to breakfast (we had already eaten) and came back with a bag of toothbrushes, floss, and toothpaste.

Started walking again at 7:20. Still hot and humid (no rain), but thankfully not sunny. The flat walk through the cornfields wasn’t as easy as I’d expected. Couldn’t get a good rhythm going. After lunch we began a 10-mile stretch indicative of what the rest of PA will be like in terms of rocks. Started off easy but ended up hard. At least it wasn’t huge boulders. Long day, though.

I sweat so much my shorts started chafing me; then I got a blister on my right heel. But we did it -- 26 miles by 5 p.m. As soon as we got to the road, a man in a van slowed down to chat. Asked us if we wanted a cold beer and pulled out two icy Bud cans. Dave was in heaven.

Walked into Duncannon. Nice, old town somewhat falling apart. The Doyle is infamous on the AT. Cheap beer and rooms. We’re staying the night. Peeling paint, windows without screens, bare lightbulbs, community bathroom. Our room is a palace, though, compared to Murph and Stray’s. Had a few drinks, then over to the local pizza parlor. Will we be in any condition to hike out tomorrow?

Day 83 - Pine Grove Furnace State Park to ATC Campsite

We had a good night by the fire. Nice campground. We’re being spoiled again! Too many stores/restrooms within easy access to the trail.

Weary hikers Blur, Longshanks, Smittee, and Pandora at the half-way point

Got a late start, and it was a hot one. First miles were easy. Resupplied at a road just off the trail. Then we did some climbing. I felt like my body temperature must have been over 100. Heat was radiating from my skin -- not to mention the sweat pouring from all of my pores.

 

The sky got dark and thunder started; we thought we were in trouble. But it only rained a little. At one point we got out of the woods, and in front of us was nothing but row upon row of corn and wheat. What a change in the landscape! Hot, too, with no protection from the trees.

Got to a campsite but found out the water was .3 miles away. Bummer. We’re on for the marathon tomorrow. First 13.5 miles are nothing but flat corn fields. Lots of heat lightning now. We’ll see what the night brings. Train tracks right next to us will keep things interesting.

Day 82 - Birch Run Shelter to Pine Grove Furnace State Park

Another beautiful day. I headed off on my own, since Dave seemed to be waiting for Smittee. Easy walking. Really nice.

Got to the campground before noon. Time for the half-gallon challenge (marking the unofficial half-way point of the trail)! I had a pint of Hershey’s mint chip ice cream, then a pint of vanilla and was all done. Dave easily put away his half-gallon of vanilla and later attempted a second (got two-thirds of the way through it). 

Smiles and Murph

Everyone who undertook the challenge met with success, though it took some longer than others. That's a lot of mouthfuls! Luckily, small wooden spoons weren't required (although victors got to take home a commemorative one).

Smittee and Longshanks keep plugging away

Stray Cat raises his arms in victory

Very hot. Just hung out. Took a swim in the pond (in my clothes). Even hit the beach ball around a little! We were supposedly moving on, but motivation levels were low. Ended up staying at the distant campground. Definitely not my ideal choice.

Might do 20 miles into Boiling Springs tomorrow, then a marathon into Duncannon the next day.

Day 81 - Antietam Shelter to Birch Run Shelter

Left Antietam at 8, and we hit a state park after 10 miles. Can you say spoiled? 

The swimming pool was really crowded and caused sensory overload for shell-shocked hikers. But there was tons of room down by the stream. Took a free hot shower and chilled out in the shade. Hot and sunny. 

Left late to do another 10 miles. Some climbs, but interspersed with some great walking. I’ve really liked Pennsylvania so far and hope I don’t come to regret these words. 

Everyone tented out at the shelter. JD was there (from Iowa), Swagman (optometrist from Australia), and Martin from Georgia, who just started at Harpers Ferry. Martin carries a mandolin and did a little playing and singing. So did Fiddlehead. Pretty cool.

Day 80 - Ensign Cowall Shelter to Antietam Shelter

Got up and out at 8! Big doings! Kind of strange to walk the same section of trail three times (since I had done a bit extra and then come back yesterday).

Tough climb to the Devil’s Racecourse. Shades of things to come? A couple of southbounders told us about a cookout at Pen Mar Park, so we started walking quicker! Murph and the gang were already here. A woman named Hat Trick and her husband Dingle, who thru-hiked in ’97, throw this picnic every year. Burgers, salads, chips, soda, brownies… it’s an absolutely perfect day.



The park is big and well-used by families (today is Father’s Day). Taking full advantage! Murph said it was one of the best days of her life -- not just on the trail. Oh, Dave 'kidnapped' my watch from me this morning. I really miss it but will try to readjust.


 

We spent the whole afternoon at the park. One of the highlights was when Dave picked up his socks, which had been drying in the sun. It was like they had been shellacked to be put in the Museum of Natural (or Unnatural) History.

Left at 5:30. A couple of curious people stopped us on the way out to ask the usual questions. Nobody seems to understand what we’re doing! Hiked to the shelter at five miles and it looked like people were staying. But I had wanted to go farther. Then everyone changed their minds and decided to do two more miles.

Good sleep in tent.

Day 79 - Dalgren Campground to Ensign Cowall Shelter

Got up late -- 7:30. Virtually all of the thru-hikers had already left. Smiles and Fiddlehead were still around, though.

Saw the Washington Monument (in Maryland, a rugged stone tower built in 1827), then stopped for lunch around noon. We hadn’t even done six miles yet! Things were not looking good for the planned 18.3-mile day. And the terrain was pretty flat, which made it that much more frustrating. 

Met a guy who was doing the 40-mile, three-state challenge. He had left Harpers Ferry at 4:30 a.m. and hoped to finish by dark. At least I’m not that crazy!

Got to the shelter at 4:30. I was not “done” for the day, so I decided to walk a bit farther and then come back. It’s a good idea, I think. When I returned, there was some trail magic happening. A woman (Pioneer) and her husband (Rider), who hiked the trail last year, came bearing a gigantic bowl of fresh strawberries, homemade biscuits, butter, and jam. Yummy! Apples, too. The woman was very talkative and obviously loved to have any excuse to associate with the trail. Only six of us here to experience the magic. As soon as they left it started to rain.

On the trail recently we’ve seen some beach roses -- reminds me of home. I have been a bit homesick as of late. Really want to see the kitties, and I miss the house. But I guess it would just be the same old, same old. This is definitely more exciting.

Wonder how long it will take us to get through Pennsylvania. Is the really rocky part going to be harder than I’m anticipating? When will we be in Mass.? There’s been a lot of talk about Katahdin lately. I think most people are expecting to make it all the way. Who will and who won’t? Who will be with us if we do? Stray Cat might be pushing ahead; same for Smittee. Dude’s putting in the miles because he has two weddings to go to. What’s happening to our little group?

Was comfortable in the shelter with everyone, but had trouble sleeping. The wooden floor just wasn't very springy. It was raining pretty hard -- glad we decided to stay where we did. Have had this weird Maryland fear thing going on. Blair Witch Project (though no one ever even mentioned the phrase). Will be happy to cross the border into PA!

Day 78 - Harpers Ferry Hostel to Dalgren Campground

Up and out late, per usual. It really looked like rain. Was looking forward to the “National Geographic” view from Weverton Cliffs. Must be much different on a clear day. I didn’t even take a picture.

Hiked to the Ed Garvey Shelter, which is huge and new and beautiful, for a break. All of a sudden Julia walked in, of 'Julia and Virginia' fame. I guess Virginia bailed in Daleville, and now Julia is going it alone. Looks good. Goes by Jules now, but everyone calls her “the Julinator.”

Stopped and had lunch at some picnic grounds. The walking was pretty easy, but the rocks are tough on the feet and knees. Disgustingly humid -- soaking wet hair. Staying at a public campground with free hot (lukewarm, rather disgusting) shower. Lots of people here. No rain yet.

Murph treated everyone to s'mores, courtesy of one of her patients, Thomas. Slept really well. These new 29 decibel earplugs block all noise -- chirping birds and tent zippers and all.

Day 77 - Gaithersburg to Harpers Ferry Hostel

Didn’t get up til after 9. Woke to the smell of fresh-baked blueberry and apple cinnamon muffins, coffee, whipped cream. Kathy really outdid herself. Don’t think she could have kept up the pace much longer, though.

They went out to do an errand, and we packed up. Turns out they had gone back to the outfitter to buy me a titanium spoon and fork set! A little heavy, but how can I not carry it! 

Smittee, Stray Cat, Murph, Blur, and Longshanks

Rode back to Harpers Ferry. Man, it was hot. We spent some time checking out the town, which is a cool old place (reminiscent of Newport). Got a giant vanilla ice cream cone, which was melting rapidly in the heat.

Bumped into Mother Hen, who told us she was having a cookout with her family -- so we checked it out. Lots of food and people, many of whom I’d never met before -- Mad Cow, Big Country, Luna, Two Traex, and the Flying Dutchman. The Flying Dutchman, Serge, is 7’3” and played basketball with the Houston Rockets for a year. He got off the trail in Erwin when he found out his wife was pregnant. Really nice guy.

Lucky Duck and China Girl were there, too. And I saw Dennis, the GoLite guy, from way back in Neels Gap. His hair is long and wild now. I said hi but could tell he didn’t recognize me. Then he said to Murph, “Yeah, I’ve been trying to catch up with Longshanks and Pack-on for a long time now.” Not sure if it’s good or bad he didn’t know who I was. Probably good, though. Murph thinks I’ve lost a lot of weight.

Hit the trail at 7:30. Crossed the bridge over the Potomac River into Maryland. No good camp sites, but there happened to be a hostel .2 miles off the trail. So off we went.

It ended up being a really nice place with a great hiker box and big porch for us to sleep on. Owner thru-hiked in ’99 and was really cool. Mick, who we haven't seen in ages, was there. I got a good night’s sleep on the couch with my new high-powered earplugs. Murph’s brilliant idea: put on bug spray before bed!

Day 76 - Gaithersburg, Maryland

Got up at 8:30. We were treated to a breakfast of bagels and cream cheese, fresh fruit, coffee cake, and coffee. Decided to take a ride to the local outfitter. I got a new tank top to replace my nasty maroon and white one.

Smittee and Stray Cat

 

Back to the house for a fabulous lunch -- sandwiches, salad, hummus, tabouli, tortillas, etc. People who still needed things decided to go to yet another outfitter. I was the only one to stay back at the house. Thought about going for a walk, but the heat convinced me otherwise. Then I took a shower, just because I could.

Had dinner, called home. Kathy emptied her cabinets of hiker-appropriate food, and we loaded up -- eliminating the need for a stop at the supermarket. More trail talk.

Oh, I asked Julia, whose favorite food is mac and cheese, what her trail name would be. She said “the Storyteller” or “Wise Eye.” Very smart and creative girl! Didn’t hit the sack til nearly 1. Big, soft pillows!

Day 75 - David Lesser Shelter to Harpers Ferry

Left at 8:30 to do the 8.5 miles into Harpers Ferry, West Virginia. Very hot and humid! But pretty easy walking. Came to a spot where Smittee and Thumper were taking a break and noticed that someone had scratched the number 1,000 in the dirt. Was that the official spot? Not sure.

We decided to take a side trail to the ATC headquarters and do our errands after that. It was actually kind of exciting. A woman took our picture -- hikers #261 and #262. Surprisingly few, it seemed.

Dave and I were walking to the outfitter when a van stopped next to us. It was Dave's friend Kathy, with Julie and Anna in tow. She and Hunter had rented the van, thinking they were taking in seven hikers (there were actually five of us -- with Murph, Stray, and Smittee). Decided to do the rest of our errands some other time and go back to the house.

Longshanks in Harpers Ferry

We were all extremely ripe, but everyone was very polite. The girls are adorable. Took about an hour to get to Gaithersburg. Beautiful house, with wood siding, high ceilings, and central air. Big deck out back. Dave and I got our own suite, with bedroom, bathroom, and dressing area. The girls gave up their beds so the other three would have a place to sleep.

Dave and I got to use a computer for the first time since May 18th, I think. Forty-two messages. Nothing too exciting. We were all treated to a dinner of grilled chicken and steak, salad, broccoli, etc. Cold beer. Cream puffs for dessert. Told stories after dinner. Very comfortable bed with lots of big, puffy pillows. One was so puffy, in fact, that I pulled a muscle in my back. Ouch!

P.S. -- I am now a bug magnet. Bites everywhere. Is it my high sweet/high salt/high fat blood?

Day 74 - Rod Hollow to David Lesser Shelter

Today was the day -- the dreaded roller coaster. Two people had told us it wasn’t that bad and “don’t believe the hype.” Actually, three. But, luckily, I retained my skeptical nature. It was that bad. 

I actually found it to be a challenge, though, and looked upon these up-and-down-and-up miles as the last big hurdle to overcome in reaching the 1,000 mile mark. It was disgustingly hot, the kind of heat that makes you look like you just got out of the shower -- without any of the clean scent or feeling of refreshment.

Stopped counting the hills after 11 -- but I think there were 14 in all. Got to the Bears Den Hostel around noon. Really nice place, and they let us use the facilities even though we weren’t staying there. Hung out for three hours, dreading the return to the roller coaster in the heat. 

Blur and Longshanks, with 1,164.7 miles to go

After a couple more climbs, we came to an open area on some big rocks. Smittee and Dave decided to take a break. I didn’t really feel the need for one, but took off my pack and found a perfect lying spot on a rock with a nice cradle for my head. It was the ideal temperature, with a light breeze blowing. I could have stayed there all night. But onward we went. 

Walked for quite a while, and we weren’t sure exactly where we were. Thumper actually way underestimated our mileage. Came to the hostel within a few minutes, much to our surprise. So we decided to go the three extra miles to the next shelter, as was our original plan. 

Got there at 7:30. Just enough time to cook dinner and get ready for bed. Dave and I decided to set up camp on the deck and hope for clear skies. Lots of bugs enjoyed not having to sneak inside a tent for a meal. Used my new sleeping bag (Dave called the company since his ripped apart, and they sent out a new one). Was excited in the morning -- lots to look forward to.

Day 73 - Jim and Molly Denton Shelter to Rod Hollow

Terrible night’s sleep. Not sure why. Maybe my sleeping bag’s too warm. Just could not get comfortable. Then the bugs were biting.

Not psyched about getting up in the morning. Just wanted to get the 19 miles over and done with. The heat makes hiking, especially uphill, so much harder for me. Not much to see, but we are definitely out of the Shenandoahs in terms of the difficulty of the terrain. 

At lunch, a butterfly landed on my watch. I was studying it closely, then noticed a clear liquid spilling onto the watchface. Eew! It was going to the bathroom, I think.

Blew through the miles to get to the shelter before 4:30. A pretty nice one, but nothing spectacular. Finally got the guts to take off my baseball cap. Everyone says it looks good, but I’ll hold judgment til I’m clean and made up.

Oh, there was a nest in a pole that was home to a mama bird and her babies. They couldn’t have been more than a day or two old. Huge eyes, and no feathers. The mother kept leaving and then coming back to feed them. The babies pretty much kept their mouths open constantly, waiting for something good to be dropped in.

Day 72 - Hogback Spring to Jim and Molly Denton Shelter

Slept well and for a lot of hours. Why is it still so hard to get up in the morning? Was determined to leave by 8, which we did.

Had a discussion about whether or not to go to D.C. for the day. I was leaning against it, mainly because I really don’t feel the need for two zero days. Couldn’t use the money excuse, since almost all of the museums in D.C. are free.

Got to the road at noon and hitched into town. A woman whose 17-year-old son is hiking the trail right now picked us up. Her son is “Front Royal,” and he’s behind us a ways. Went to an awesome, authentic Mexican restaurant. Then to a supermarket to resupply. 

Had some time to spare, and I saw a Super Cuts-type place nearby, so I decided to go for it. Big mistake. Had to wait an hour for an appointment and was really embarrassed to have the woman touch and wash my dirty hair.

Then it was in front of the mirror with no makeup. Yikes! I asked her to take off a little more than an inch. She was cutting and cutting and cutting. The works. I was not a happy camper. So on went the baseball cap. But like Dave said, I’m not trying to impress anyone and it will grow back (and should make my head cooler, which will be nice).

Easy 5.3 mile walk to the shelter. It’s a really nice one with deck and cooking pavillion. Enjoyed talking with Artful Dodger, who’s hiked a massive number of miles (12,000?). He highly recommended we go to Vernon, N.J. rather than Unionville, New York. Also, he said that Upper Goose Pond before the Mass. Pike is one of “the” special trail places. It’s a hostel, I guess, and you can use canoes and stuff. Sounds neat.

Dodger told us a lot about the trail coming up and eased many of my concerns about the terrain. As for the fact that so many hikers are dropping out as of late, he said, “The best is, by far, yet to come.”

Day 71 - Pass Mountain Hut to Hogback Spring

Slept pretty well, with my usual midnight wake-up time. Up before 7, but not out til 8:30. 

Did the eight miles to Elkwallow Gap Wayside (store and grill) in 2 ½ hours. Chilled out for another 2 ½. Got a yogurt, an ice cream cookie sandwich, and a blackberry sundae. Yum! I love eating desserts. What will I do when I get home? Will I be able to curb my appetite? Will the pounds leap onto my stomach and thighs in a big welcome home hug? 

 

Not looking forward to the big climb out of the gap. But it never materialized. We were going down the other side when we found out we’d already passed the top of the dreaded mountain. It was hot, though, in the 80’s, which made things uncomfortable. 

Decided to do 16.5 miles to a spring and just camp there. Murph and Stray pushed on to the shelter at 23 miles. Campsites were hidden way back, but not bad. No fires allowed, though. 

Thumper and Assface were here, along with a man doing a section hike. It’s surprisingly cold. My hands could do with some gloves. Last 10 miles of the Shennies tomorrow. Into Front Royal to resupply.

Day 70 - Big Meadows to Pass Mountain

Longshanks and Bean

We all knew it was going to be tough getting up and out with our full packs, knowing we wouldn’t be coming back to Big Meadows. But I was looking forward to a full day of hiking (and burning off some of that restaurant food).

Dave called his friend Kathy, who is going to pick up five of us in Harper’s Ferry, West Virginia. She's renting a van in order to transport all of us and our packs. Should be fun!

Left at 11, which is not my ideal time – but at least it wasn’t really hot and sunny. Oh, at the lodge, before we left there was a couple outside who started asking questions. "What are those things around your ankles?" "Do your clothes get wet?" "Aren’t you cold?" Then the man said, “What do you do, one or two miles a day?” When Bean said 18-22, they almost died. The woman kept saying, “Oh, my God,” “Oh, my God.”

Then they mentioned Greensinger, who they knew started in Georgia. We said we did, too. “Oh, my God. I wish I had my camera,” the woman said. I should have taken a picture of them. I had to look away because I was laughing so hard and didn’t want to seem rude.

“How do they even know where they’re going?” the woman asked, as we were headed for the path that led to the campground.

The walk was pretty easy, though rocky at points. Tough to get back in the swing of things. My pack was feeling pretty good, though. I dumped a bunch of stuff at the lodge (pot and lid, bandana, shampoo, film canister, book, two sections of my Z-rest). It seemed to make a pretty big difference. Plus I’m not carrying very much food.

Hopefully when I get Dave’s sleeping bag I’ll be able to lighten his load. Took a lunch break, then walked on to Mary’s Rock, which is supposedly 1 billion years old. Not much of a view with the fog. Only a couple more miles to the shelter, or the hut, as they’re called in the Shenandoahs.

Oh, we saw a bear! It wasn’t very close, but it was definitely a bear. Bean ran up to get some photos, but I must admit I was a little nervous. She headed towards the road and was soon out of sight.

Got to the hut before 7:30. Only Illinois Coy was here. Assface and Thumper showed up later. None of us have seen many hikers around. A lot of people have dropped out, they said. Wonder who.

Day 69 - South River to Big Meadows

Well, we didn’t have to get on the trail in full after all. We planned to sleep late and go to breakfast, so we didn’t think we’d be able to do many miles. Decided to shoot for Big Meadows (finally), which is where we've been spending our nights. 

Then Mr. Murphy offered to keep one of the rooms for us. Score! I was happy (mixed with a moderate dose of guilt). Oh, forgot to mention that we finally caught up with Phil last night. He’s been ahead of us since we got off the trail to go to Rusty’s. Anyway, it was good to see him. He came to dinner and stayed in the room with us.

Blur, Longshanks, Stray Cat, Duchie, Phil, Phil, and Smittee

Slept til after 8:30 the next morning and went to breakfast around 10 (buckwheat pancakes with blueberries). Then we had to move our stuff to the new room. Got a ride back to the trail at noon and said our goodbyes. 

Only 14 miles back to Big Meadows. Hot and humid, but the pack was light and the ground was flat. They were 14 of the easiest miles on the trail. We did them in 4 ½ hours. 

Smittee saw a mama bear and three of her cubs. I was a few minutes too late. Got to the campground around 4:30 and was very happy to have a room awaiting us. Showered and went to the lodge. Dave and Smittee were already in the tap room, throwing back a few, so I joined them. We stayed there for quite a while. 

Hung out in the room, then turned out the lights. There was a lot of giggling going on – kind of like a big slumber party. Slept really well with my foamy pink pillow. Up after 8. Lots of fog and drizzle make for a low motivation factor.

Day 68 - Pinefield Gap to South River

Tough getting up. It had rained a lot (thunder and lightning) during the night and was still very foggy. But we were coming back to the lodge, so no matter!

Stray Cat, Murph, Longshanks, and Blur

Got our large coffees and hopped into the van. Phil and Duchie walked .1 mile to the first shelter. Murph was happy. The fog burned off and the sun came out, but it was incredibly muggy. Glad I had taken everything out of my pack except food, water, and some clothes. Yep, I’m a slackpacker now.

Individual miles were going fast, but collective miles were slow to add up. Hiked from 10 to 3:30, with a lunch break, and did 14 or 15 miles. I was hoofin’ it to keep up with Dave. Don’t like the heat, but knew there was a shower at the end of the day. Back to the lodge for dinner. Oh, stopped at the camp store to resupply.

We had our “last supper” well thought out. I got a salad, onion rings, chicken quesadilla, and brownie sundae. Yum! Can you say spoiled? We’re going to have breakfast tomorrow, since it’s the Murphys' last day. It’s raining again – glad I’m inside. Going to be hard to get on the trail, in full, tomorrow.

Day 67 - Mile 92.4 to Pinefield Gap

Got packed up and into the car for the ride back to the trail. Along the way, we saw more wildlife than we’ve ever seen in the woods. Lots of deer, wild turkeys, squirrels… then we saw a black bear! It was right by the side of the road and turned to look at us. Much cuter than I expected, actually.

Mrs. Murphy (Duchie) walked the first six miles with us. Pretty easy walking. The last 14 didn’t go as quick, though. We were all kind of tired, for some reason. I had taken a few things out of my pack, but not enough to make a big difference.

Murph and Duchie

Then Dave decided to go off trail .1 mile to a camp store, where he hoped to find a phone. It ended up being a long walk, probably a mile out of our way in all. I was not a happy camper. Dave got in touch with the sleeping  bag company and finally talked to someone who said he'd replace the one with the broken zipper.
Back on the trail, Dave was hiking really fast – and I, of course, tried to keep up. Was going downhill and somehow tripped and fell – full body, slow motion, hit-the-ground. I remember the fingers of my left hand bending back, but otherwise seemed to be in pretty good shape. Didn’t notice the huge lump on my left lower leg til later. Murph called it a hematoma. Hasn’t turned color yet, but it’s bound to be quite dramatic when it does.
Took a shower and went to dinner. Becoming very familiar with the lodge menu. Stuffed myself yet again. We said goodbye to Charlie, who is speeding up so his girlfriend Mason won’t have to do the last yucky part of Pennsylvania. Also to Honkey, who is ahead of us and will be getting off the trail in three weeks to start grad school.
Dave and I had our own room again. No mice that I heard/felt.

Day 66 - Paul Wolfe Shelter to Skyline Drive Mile 92.4

Got up and out last, of course, at 8:30. Had to do 18 ½ miles by 4 p.m. It was possible, but we’d have to hustle.

Hiked five miles to Rockfish Gap, where there was a gas station with a convenience store. Quick break, then headed towards Shenandoah National Park. Nice walking; quite cool, actually. Some steep ups, though. I guess those are inevitable, and I should just learn to accept them.

Stopped for lunch on top of Bear Mountain and who of all people but Ebb showed up. No one knew what to say, and it was quite awkward. We kept eating and pretty much ignored him.

At 1:10 we still had 8.4 miles to do. Could we make it on time? Would the thought of a hot shower, my first in a week, propel me up the trail faster?

Oh, this was June 3rd, our first wedding anniversary. It was a good day. I did think back to June 3, 2000 on occasion – especially the ceremony in the marsh. I was glad I don’t have to go through that again – too much pressure.

Kicked it into high gear behind Smittee and Longshanks, and we made it to the Murphys' van at 3:55. They are really nice, and just how I pictured them based on Murph’s description. Drove an hour to get to Big Meadows, where we’re all staying. Had a beer at the pub, then off to the room for a shower.

They got us a two bedroom, two bathroom place, separated by a living room with fireplace. No phone or TV. It’s really nice! Because of our anniversary, Dave and I got one of the rooms to ourselves.

We all met for dinner at 7:30. Charlie and Honkey came, too. Prices at the lodge are quite high,and I thought the food was rather disappointing for the money. I got a house salad, grilled veggie kabob with rice, and blackberry cobbler a la mode for dessert. Two glasses of merlot, too. One of the waiters is a thru hiker (Greensinger), and he serenaded Dave and me for our anniversary (Oh Shenandoah). Got a free blackberry ice cream – yum!

Hung out in the Murphys' room after dinner for a while. Charlie showed his video thusfar. A bit of trouble getting to sleep. Too much excitement, I guess. Dave kept hearing mice in the walls and maybe in the room. I had my earplugs in, so the noise didn’t bother me.

Day 65 - Rusty's to Paul Wolfe Shelter

Murph and Stray hit the road early, but we and Smittee decided to stick around for more of Rusty’s fabulous pancakes. He got up late and was slow getting started – not that he’s running a restaurant or anything. Ate after 10, and he offered to give us a ride to the fire road (didn’t get there til 11:30).

Seventeen miles to go, and I do not like getting such a late start. Plus the sun had started beating down, making for much less than ideal hiking conditions. But I guess that’s all part of it – hiking in the cold and the heat and the rain; over rocks and roots and streams; up and down; down and up. It’s rare to come across a day with ideal hiking conditions (for me) – 60 to 65 degrees, partly cloudy, soft breeze, climb early, then the terrain flattens out.

Dave and I were on our own for the whole day. The miles started slow because of all the walking over rocks. You really can’t look up, for even a second, or you risk injury. It can be challenging and even kind of fun (did I say that?). At least it gets your mind off the drudgery of hiking.

Met Jason, a young teacher from Virginia, who was very friendly and chatty. He’d just heard from Murph and Stray about a big rattlesnake in the middle of the trail. We hadn’t seen it, though.

Got to the shelter a little after 7. It’s a really nice one with an extra long platform, bunks, and an overhang. Supposed to rain tonight, so we’re inside. Blowin’ Sunshine and Shiggy are here, too. Looking forward to meeting Murph’s parents, taking a shower, and going out to eat (not necessarily in that order) tomorrow. Slept OK but am still waking up and having trouble going back to sleep.