Day 80 - Ensign Cowall Shelter to Antietam Shelter

Got up and out at 8! Big doings! Kind of strange to walk the same section of trail three times (since I had done a bit extra and then come back yesterday).

Tough climb to the Devil’s Racecourse. Shades of things to come? A couple of southbounders told us about a cookout at Pen Mar Park, so we started walking quicker! Murph and the gang were already here. A woman named Hat Trick and her husband Dingle, who thru-hiked in ’97, throw this picnic every year. Burgers, salads, chips, soda, brownies… it’s an absolutely perfect day.



The park is big and well-used by families (today is Father’s Day). Taking full advantage! Murph said it was one of the best days of her life -- not just on the trail. Oh, Dave 'kidnapped' my watch from me this morning. I really miss it but will try to readjust.


 

We spent the whole afternoon at the park. One of the highlights was when Dave picked up his socks, which had been drying in the sun. It was like they had been shellacked to be put in the Museum of Natural (or Unnatural) History.

Left at 5:30. A couple of curious people stopped us on the way out to ask the usual questions. Nobody seems to understand what we’re doing! Hiked to the shelter at five miles and it looked like people were staying. But I had wanted to go farther. Then everyone changed their minds and decided to do two more miles.

Good sleep in tent.

Day 79 - Dalgren Campground to Ensign Cowall Shelter

Got up late -- 7:30. Virtually all of the thru-hikers had already left. Smiles and Fiddlehead were still around, though.

Saw the Washington Monument (in Maryland, a rugged stone tower built in 1827), then stopped for lunch around noon. We hadn’t even done six miles yet! Things were not looking good for the planned 18.3-mile day. And the terrain was pretty flat, which made it that much more frustrating. 

Met a guy who was doing the 40-mile, three-state challenge. He had left Harpers Ferry at 4:30 a.m. and hoped to finish by dark. At least I’m not that crazy!

Got to the shelter at 4:30. I was not “done” for the day, so I decided to walk a bit farther and then come back. It’s a good idea, I think. When I returned, there was some trail magic happening. A woman (Pioneer) and her husband (Rider), who hiked the trail last year, came bearing a gigantic bowl of fresh strawberries, homemade biscuits, butter, and jam. Yummy! Apples, too. The woman was very talkative and obviously loved to have any excuse to associate with the trail. Only six of us here to experience the magic. As soon as they left it started to rain.

On the trail recently we’ve seen some beach roses -- reminds me of home. I have been a bit homesick as of late. Really want to see the kitties, and I miss the house. But I guess it would just be the same old, same old. This is definitely more exciting.

Wonder how long it will take us to get through Pennsylvania. Is the really rocky part going to be harder than I’m anticipating? When will we be in Mass.? There’s been a lot of talk about Katahdin lately. I think most people are expecting to make it all the way. Who will and who won’t? Who will be with us if we do? Stray Cat might be pushing ahead; same for Smittee. Dude’s putting in the miles because he has two weddings to go to. What’s happening to our little group?

Was comfortable in the shelter with everyone, but had trouble sleeping. The wooden floor just wasn't very springy. It was raining pretty hard -- glad we decided to stay where we did. Have had this weird Maryland fear thing going on. Blair Witch Project (though no one ever even mentioned the phrase). Will be happy to cross the border into PA!

Day 78 - Harpers Ferry Hostel to Dalgren Campground

Up and out late, per usual. It really looked like rain. Was looking forward to the “National Geographic” view from Weverton Cliffs. Must be much different on a clear day. I didn’t even take a picture.

Hiked to the Ed Garvey Shelter, which is huge and new and beautiful, for a break. All of a sudden Julia walked in, of 'Julia and Virginia' fame. I guess Virginia bailed in Daleville, and now Julia is going it alone. Looks good. Goes by Jules now, but everyone calls her “the Julinator.”

Stopped and had lunch at some picnic grounds. The walking was pretty easy, but the rocks are tough on the feet and knees. Disgustingly humid -- soaking wet hair. Staying at a public campground with free hot (lukewarm, rather disgusting) shower. Lots of people here. No rain yet.

Murph treated everyone to s'mores, courtesy of one of her patients, Thomas. Slept really well. These new 29 decibel earplugs block all noise -- chirping birds and tent zippers and all.

Day 77 - Gaithersburg to Harpers Ferry Hostel

Didn’t get up til after 9. Woke to the smell of fresh-baked blueberry and apple cinnamon muffins, coffee, whipped cream. Kathy really outdid herself. Don’t think she could have kept up the pace much longer, though.

They went out to do an errand, and we packed up. Turns out they had gone back to the outfitter to buy me a titanium spoon and fork set! A little heavy, but how can I not carry it! 

Smittee, Stray Cat, Murph, Blur, and Longshanks

Rode back to Harpers Ferry. Man, it was hot. We spent some time checking out the town, which is a cool old place (reminiscent of Newport). Got a giant vanilla ice cream cone, which was melting rapidly in the heat.

Bumped into Mother Hen, who told us she was having a cookout with her family -- so we checked it out. Lots of food and people, many of whom I’d never met before -- Mad Cow, Big Country, Luna, Two Traex, and the Flying Dutchman. The Flying Dutchman, Serge, is 7’3” and played basketball with the Houston Rockets for a year. He got off the trail in Erwin when he found out his wife was pregnant. Really nice guy.

Lucky Duck and China Girl were there, too. And I saw Dennis, the GoLite guy, from way back in Neels Gap. His hair is long and wild now. I said hi but could tell he didn’t recognize me. Then he said to Murph, “Yeah, I’ve been trying to catch up with Longshanks and Pack-on for a long time now.” Not sure if it’s good or bad he didn’t know who I was. Probably good, though. Murph thinks I’ve lost a lot of weight.

Hit the trail at 7:30. Crossed the bridge over the Potomac River into Maryland. No good camp sites, but there happened to be a hostel .2 miles off the trail. So off we went.

It ended up being a really nice place with a great hiker box and big porch for us to sleep on. Owner thru-hiked in ’99 and was really cool. Mick, who we haven't seen in ages, was there. I got a good night’s sleep on the couch with my new high-powered earplugs. Murph’s brilliant idea: put on bug spray before bed!

Day 76 - Gaithersburg, Maryland

Got up at 8:30. We were treated to a breakfast of bagels and cream cheese, fresh fruit, coffee cake, and coffee. Decided to take a ride to the local outfitter. I got a new tank top to replace my nasty maroon and white one.

Smittee and Stray Cat

 

Back to the house for a fabulous lunch -- sandwiches, salad, hummus, tabouli, tortillas, etc. People who still needed things decided to go to yet another outfitter. I was the only one to stay back at the house. Thought about going for a walk, but the heat convinced me otherwise. Then I took a shower, just because I could.

Had dinner, called home. Kathy emptied her cabinets of hiker-appropriate food, and we loaded up -- eliminating the need for a stop at the supermarket. More trail talk.

Oh, I asked Julia, whose favorite food is mac and cheese, what her trail name would be. She said “the Storyteller” or “Wise Eye.” Very smart and creative girl! Didn’t hit the sack til nearly 1. Big, soft pillows!