Day 94 - Delaware Water Gap, Pennsylvania/New Jersey

Staked a claim on the love seat for sleeping last night. Couldn’t stretch out, but it was better than lying on the muddy, dirt-streaked floor. Did pretty well, once the light was finally turned off.

Those thunderstorms yesterday made the humidity disappear, leaving a brisk, refreshing air in its place. What a difference. It feels like the beginning of fall. Would have been a perfect day for hiking, but I was content to stay.

Dave was concerned about reports of recent bear activity and didn’t want to tent. Also, the usual errands sucked up the day. Took a shuttle to an outfitter. Nothing in Dave’s size. He ended up buying a pair of sneakers at Ames for $20, which will hopefully get him to the next major town.

Took full advantage of the local bakery -- homemade pies, muffins, and cookies. Yum!

Smittee samples the local fare

Spent a while talking to Bob Gabriel, Arch Angel. He was on the trail last year but had to get off due to a serious leg problem. Now he’s back, heading north slow and steady.

We actually met him for the first time at the Palmerton jailhouse hostel. He had a long military career and told me a really sad story about two friends of his who were killed in Vietnam. At the end of it, his eyes were overflowing, as were mine. He talked about how important it is not to take freedom for granted. Also, Angel told me how happy he is to walk through the woods without fearing that his life is in danger.

“I can’t believe no one’s shooting at me. No one’s trying to kill me,” he said. Everyone who passes him in the woods is a friend. Yet again, I have a new perspective on this trail.

Bunch of people came to the hostel during the day, including Moonshine, Bad Moon, and Deuce ½. A hiker's bootless and not so sweet-smelling feet were draped all over the love seat I had slept on the night before. Even though it was quite cold out (for July), I opted for the tent. Felt like fall. We haven’t really walked through the whole summer -- have we?

Day 93 - Leroy Smith Shelter to Delaware Water Gap

Up at 6, out at 7:15. Anxious to finish the last 20 miles of Penn. Didn’t really care what they were like -- just wanted them done.

They continued to be very rocky and annoying. Didn’t take many breaks. Thunder started just before we got to the shelter, so we picked up the pace. Made it just in time. Had lunch, then the sky cleared.

As we were leaving, Murph and Cameron came and delivered some trail magic -- soda and fruit from a couple at the previous road crossing. We headed off to do the last 6 ½ miles and got caught in an absolute downpour. 

Ran through big puddles. Made whooping noises. Took pictures. Very life-affirming stuff. It was especially fun because we knew we were going to a place with walls and a roof and a hot shower.

 Back row: Bad Moon, Longshanks, Mick, Smittee, Will Scarlett, Buzzard; middle row: Blur, Murph, Wren: Front: Stray Cat

The church hostel is nice, but packed with hikers. Not sure what’s up with Lion King, Animal, and Mother Hen, but they seem to be everywhere without doing much hiking.

Went out for pizza. Oh, Dave busted through the sole of one of his boots today (those damn Pennsylvania rocks!). Must find replacements in or around Delaware Water Gap tomorrow.

Day 92 - Palmerton to Leroy Smith Shelter

Well, it was one free beer and then some. The boys got in late and, as I expected, had no interest in getting up early. But I was determined to tackle Dante’s Inferno before the heat. 

Murph gets ready to leave Palmerton

Murph and I left the hostel around 6:15 and got a ride pretty easily back to the trail. Started hiking at 7. It was still relatively cool with a nice breeze. The actual climb was up over big boulders, but most of them had pretty reasonable step-like rocks nearby. 

 

Murph and I hiked the section alone, and it was really quite fun. Not scary or painful or intimidating at all. Great view of Palmerton, then great views of all the destruction caused by a zinc-smelting plant down below years ago.

 

Pretty easy walking, but really rocky. Murph and I just took it slow and steady all day. Got to the shelter around 2:15. Dave had left Palmerton late so he could make some phone calls. Didn’t see him til the late afternoon. 

A bunch of us set up camp near the shelter. Very hot and humid. Didn’t have the energy to move. Thunderstorms rolled in after we had gone to bed. Nothing too bad, though.

Day 91 - Allentown Shelter to Palmerton

I woke up at 6:15 and was surprised to see nearly everbody already gone. Got my act together quick, but had to wait for Dave. Hardly any air.

First six miles were a piece of cake -- then we started getting into the rocks. Big boulders that you have to stop and climb over, little ones that jab your feet, medium ones that are a pain in the butt. Very frustrating -- especially because Dave seems to go faster over the rocks. I just can’t keep up.

Knew the tears weren’t far away. They came right after a pretty good fall. These rocks are actually mighty dangerous. And I don’t know how someone with a fear of heights could climb over the boulders. Will try to take it slow, though, and change my attitude. Are they really worth crying over?

Stopped for lunch at 10 miles. Didn’t feel like hanging out, so I pushed on. Not as bad as I expected -- but still my feet felt like chopped liver and my left toes were cramping up. Waited at the shelter for Dave for two hours. Started to thunderstorm.

I wanted to head into the town of Palmerton and stay at the “jailhouse hostel” -- actually the town hall basement. Dave surprisingly agreed. Wicked friendly place. They hand out care packages (with stuff donated by local businesses and put together by girl scouts), and the supermarket gives all thru-hikers a free apple. Happy to be here. We made a good decision.

Oh, hot shower, soda machine, and telephone, too. Bought a humongous sub at the supermarket (compromise between eating out and cooking our own food). Dave and the boys are out enjoying their one (I hope) free beer in town.

Day 90 - Windsor Furnace Shelter to Allentown Shelter

Beginning of the day went well. Pretty easy terrain. Excited to get to the Eckville Shelter for a loooong break (to avoid hiking in the heat). Ended up staying from 11 to 5:15. Set up sort of like the 501 Shelter, with a bunkhouse next to a real house.

Lazee is the caretaker, and he's anything but. Keeps a fridge fully stocked with soda, juice, and ice cream sandwiches -- all for a donation only. Shower (cold) too, which felt really good. I sacked out on a lounge chair. Too hot to do much else, and it was tough to get going later.

Longshanks, Longway, Smittee, Swagman, Cameron/7 States, and Murph beat the heat at the Eckville Shelter

Terrain was definitely rockier. Not so happy to be struggling along at the back of the pack. Got to the shelter late again. Just enough time to cook and get things ready for the next day.

Oh, I think I forgot to mention that just before Birch Run Shelter, some people saw an orange cat on the trail. Was it Tiggy? Dave had a dream recently that he looked like the Snuggles dryer sheet bear -- sort of like he’s gotten a perm. Wonder if he’ll be back to normal by the time we see him.

Also, met two women who started hiking in Virginia -- Cool Runnings (because she’s slow, like the Jamaican bobsled team) and Who Cooks for You (because that’s the sound her favorite bird, the bard owl, makes). Great names.

Day 89 - 501 Shelter to Eagle's Nest Shelter

Got up at 6:30, but getting out is another matter entirely. Left at 8:15. The only person we saw all day is Longway. He’s cool -- nice kid.

We went slow and took lots of breaks, which made Dave happy. A bit rockier -- shades of things to come, I know! Been really concerned about the last 75 miles of trail in Penn. There’s one section that Wingfoot compares to being in a scene from Dante’s Inferno -- especially if the heat is radiating off the rocks.

Blur tackles the rocks

Cameron/7 States just pushes them aside

Now I find out that the rocks actually extend into New Jersey. Aargh! Might have to hike this section on my own. Dave goes too fast, and I put pressure on myself to keep up, which is dangerous.

Ate lunch, then Dave, Longway, and I broke out the Z-rests and took a nap. I was nearly comatose. Couldn’t move except to swat those ever-annoying flies. Why do they land on me? What do they think I am? Then there are the small, toothless mosquitoes that fly around your head, giving you a private serenade, up close and personal.

Oh, a bunch of women wearing long dresses and white bonnet-like caps passed us going the opposite direction. I guess they were Mennonites. Will have to do some research on that one.

Day 88 - Rauch Gap Campsites to 501 Shelter

The photo that says it all: Blur (ready to go) and Longshanks (amidst pack explosion)

Good day. Relatively easy walking. Dave and I brought up the rear and took lots of breaks. Really pretty on top of the ridge. Almost looked like a park with grass, but the green stuff is actually some sort of Japanese ground cover (I think).

When we got to the William Penn Shelter, we crossed the “1,000 miles to go” line. Now we're in triple digits. Pandora’s parents drove down from Maine to see him and had a cooler full of soda and snacks for everyone.

Went to the 501 Shelter. It wasn’t as nice as I expected, but we stayed anyway. Big crowd again. Able to buy soda and Klondike bars from the couple in the house next door (the caretakers). Some people decided to slackpack into Port Clinton. I didn’t feel the need to do 23 miles.

Stray Cat has left us, made his move to do more miles. Murph is understandably bummed. Will we ever catch him? Will he come to the cookout in Pittsfield? Stay tuned.

Day 87 - Peters Mountain Shelter to Rauch Gap Campsites

Forgot to mention who we met yesterday. A girl Dave graduated from high school with (Cheryl Dunn) is out here thru-hiking with her husband, Jason. They live in Alaska and started the trail April 10. She seems nice. They are flying -- never stop in towns and have never stayed at a motel.

Kind of got me thinking. Dave too, I guess. We have vowed to try to change our ways in the second half of the trip. No more motels or zero days til Pittsfield. We’ll see if we can stick to it. A lot will depend on the weather, I think.

I slept very well in the shelter last night, despite the crowd. Had on socks, long johns, shorts, three shirts, and my fleece hat. Left late, per usual. Easy terrain, with just one big gradual up. The weather was perfect for hiking -- sunny and coolish with a great breeze.

Smittee, Deuce 1/2, and Longshanks

FYI: My yuckiest breakfast to date: crushed strawberry pop tarts, raisins, chocolate chips, mocha instant breakfast, and warm water. Ate every bite, though.

Have been thinking about how you don’t usually notice what time it gets dark (or light) when you’re inside. Also, we always tend to stay up later when we’re at a place that has electricity.

We’re all at the same spot again tonight. Some are tenting (us); others are in the shelter. Eclectic mix of food. If you’re willing to mix and match, you can do quite well resupplying out of hiker boxes. Dave and I have saved a lot of money this way. Plus we take advantage of hikers who have extra food in their mail drops. Sometimes you don’t know what you’re eating, but we’ve never not finished a meal.

The question becomes, when do you stop taking free food in the name of excess pack weight? Do you just keep taking stuff because it’s free? Even if you don’t like it?

Day 86 - Duncannon to Peters Mountain Shelter

The night was good. I slept well in the soft bed with two pillows and two big windows letting in the breeze. Glad it wasn’t til morning that Dave found the big stains on the sheets.

Left the Doyle at noon. On the way out of town, stopped to talk to a man in his yard. Turns out he’d just gotten back from a week on the Cape!

The climb out of Duncannon wasn’t as bad as I’d expected. Then again, we only did 11 miles. This shelter is mobbed. More than 20 people here, and we all seem to be headed to the same places the next couple of days.

 

The sky has cleared, and now it’s downright cold! But I’m not complaining. Oh, today Dave told me I had my father’s stubbornness and my mother’s energy. I think that’s pretty accurate.

Forgot about the mayfly phenomenon. These small white flying insects descended upon the town, hovering around every light fixture and making big piles at the bottom of doorways. Very strange. I guess they only live for 24 hours or something. Smittee threw a handful of them at me. It was like snow (sort of).

Day 85 - Duncannon, Pennsylvania

Longshanks and Murph at The Doyle

Dave, Smittee, et al. “tore it up” at the bar last night. Good thing beer is cheap here. Actually, the gang mostly hung out on the second floor porch. Stray Cat had gotten drunk early in celebration of his 30th birthday.

I wasn’t much in a drinking mood. Had my pineapple pizza, read for a while, and went to bed. Slept well, despite the insects coming in through the screen-less window. Major thunderstorms during the night. Glad we weren’t in them. Motivation factor was extremely low, and it didn’t take much to convince us to stay another night.

Had breakfast at the diner across the street. Got a ride to the supermarket. All the usual errands that suck up the day. Rained off and on. Bunch of people came into town -- Moose, Smiles and Fiddlehead, Moonshine, Longway, Bad Moon, Lion King, the King… Going to be interesting getting out of town. 

Tried to figure out when we’re going to be in Mass. so we can get started on plans for the cookout/clambake. I decided on the 21st, which I think is very realistic (had to make it a Saturday).

May have to push it a little at the end, but that’s OK. Mom and Dad seem excited about our arrival in Mass. It will be weird to see everyone.

Got dinner at the pizza place again. Dave was talking about what it will be like to deal with life in the “real world” (or off the trail) again. Wonder how I’ll react. Will I go back to all my old ways? Will I be mellower? More appreciative of the little things in life? I hope so. Shared the room with Swagman and Smittee. Oh, Deuce ½ shaved her head. It looks good, but I'm not sure I'd have the guts to go through with it.

Day 84 - ATC Campsite to Duncannon

Ended up being a good night, for me anyway. Those earplugs even blocked the sound of the train 20 feet away.

Up at 5:45, and it was already light. Felt good to be up that early and taking advantage of the day.

Walked into Boiling Springs at 6:30. Cute town with big pond and lots of geese roaming around. Met a dentist who was asking lots of questions about the trail. He even invited us to breakfast (we had already eaten) and came back with a bag of toothbrushes, floss, and toothpaste.

Started walking again at 7:20. Still hot and humid (no rain), but thankfully not sunny. The flat walk through the cornfields wasn’t as easy as I’d expected. Couldn’t get a good rhythm going. After lunch we began a 10-mile stretch indicative of what the rest of PA will be like in terms of rocks. Started off easy but ended up hard. At least it wasn’t huge boulders. Long day, though.

I sweat so much my shorts started chafing me; then I got a blister on my right heel. But we did it -- 26 miles by 5 p.m. As soon as we got to the road, a man in a van slowed down to chat. Asked us if we wanted a cold beer and pulled out two icy Bud cans. Dave was in heaven.

Walked into Duncannon. Nice, old town somewhat falling apart. The Doyle is infamous on the AT. Cheap beer and rooms. We’re staying the night. Peeling paint, windows without screens, bare lightbulbs, community bathroom. Our room is a palace, though, compared to Murph and Stray’s. Had a few drinks, then over to the local pizza parlor. Will we be in any condition to hike out tomorrow?

Day 83 - Pine Grove Furnace State Park to ATC Campsite

We had a good night by the fire. Nice campground. We’re being spoiled again! Too many stores/restrooms within easy access to the trail.

Weary hikers Blur, Longshanks, Smittee, and Pandora at the half-way point

Got a late start, and it was a hot one. First miles were easy. Resupplied at a road just off the trail. Then we did some climbing. I felt like my body temperature must have been over 100. Heat was radiating from my skin -- not to mention the sweat pouring from all of my pores.

 

The sky got dark and thunder started; we thought we were in trouble. But it only rained a little. At one point we got out of the woods, and in front of us was nothing but row upon row of corn and wheat. What a change in the landscape! Hot, too, with no protection from the trees.

Got to a campsite but found out the water was .3 miles away. Bummer. We’re on for the marathon tomorrow. First 13.5 miles are nothing but flat corn fields. Lots of heat lightning now. We’ll see what the night brings. Train tracks right next to us will keep things interesting.

Day 82 - Birch Run Shelter to Pine Grove Furnace State Park

Another beautiful day. I headed off on my own, since Dave seemed to be waiting for Smittee. Easy walking. Really nice.

Got to the campground before noon. Time for the half-gallon challenge (marking the unofficial half-way point of the trail)! I had a pint of Hershey’s mint chip ice cream, then a pint of vanilla and was all done. Dave easily put away his half-gallon of vanilla and later attempted a second (got two-thirds of the way through it). 

Smiles and Murph

Everyone who undertook the challenge met with success, though it took some longer than others. That's a lot of mouthfuls! Luckily, small wooden spoons weren't required (although victors got to take home a commemorative one).

Smittee and Longshanks keep plugging away

Stray Cat raises his arms in victory

Very hot. Just hung out. Took a swim in the pond (in my clothes). Even hit the beach ball around a little! We were supposedly moving on, but motivation levels were low. Ended up staying at the distant campground. Definitely not my ideal choice.

Might do 20 miles into Boiling Springs tomorrow, then a marathon into Duncannon the next day.

Day 81 - Antietam Shelter to Birch Run Shelter

Left Antietam at 8, and we hit a state park after 10 miles. Can you say spoiled? 

The swimming pool was really crowded and caused sensory overload for shell-shocked hikers. But there was tons of room down by the stream. Took a free hot shower and chilled out in the shade. Hot and sunny. 

Left late to do another 10 miles. Some climbs, but interspersed with some great walking. I’ve really liked Pennsylvania so far and hope I don’t come to regret these words. 

Everyone tented out at the shelter. JD was there (from Iowa), Swagman (optometrist from Australia), and Martin from Georgia, who just started at Harpers Ferry. Martin carries a mandolin and did a little playing and singing. So did Fiddlehead. Pretty cool.