Day 93 - Leroy Smith Shelter to Delaware Water Gap

Up at 6, out at 7:15. Anxious to finish the last 20 miles of Penn. Didn’t really care what they were like -- just wanted them done.

They continued to be very rocky and annoying. Didn’t take many breaks. Thunder started just before we got to the shelter, so we picked up the pace. Made it just in time. Had lunch, then the sky cleared.

As we were leaving, Murph and Cameron came and delivered some trail magic -- soda and fruit from a couple at the previous road crossing. We headed off to do the last 6 ½ miles and got caught in an absolute downpour. 

Ran through big puddles. Made whooping noises. Took pictures. Very life-affirming stuff. It was especially fun because we knew we were going to a place with walls and a roof and a hot shower.

 Back row: Bad Moon, Longshanks, Mick, Smittee, Will Scarlett, Buzzard; middle row: Blur, Murph, Wren: Front: Stray Cat

The church hostel is nice, but packed with hikers. Not sure what’s up with Lion King, Animal, and Mother Hen, but they seem to be everywhere without doing much hiking.

Went out for pizza. Oh, Dave busted through the sole of one of his boots today (those damn Pennsylvania rocks!). Must find replacements in or around Delaware Water Gap tomorrow.

Day 92 - Palmerton to Leroy Smith Shelter

Well, it was one free beer and then some. The boys got in late and, as I expected, had no interest in getting up early. But I was determined to tackle Dante’s Inferno before the heat. 

Murph gets ready to leave Palmerton

Murph and I left the hostel around 6:15 and got a ride pretty easily back to the trail. Started hiking at 7. It was still relatively cool with a nice breeze. The actual climb was up over big boulders, but most of them had pretty reasonable step-like rocks nearby. 

 

Murph and I hiked the section alone, and it was really quite fun. Not scary or painful or intimidating at all. Great view of Palmerton, then great views of all the destruction caused by a zinc-smelting plant down below years ago.

 

Pretty easy walking, but really rocky. Murph and I just took it slow and steady all day. Got to the shelter around 2:15. Dave had left Palmerton late so he could make some phone calls. Didn’t see him til the late afternoon. 

A bunch of us set up camp near the shelter. Very hot and humid. Didn’t have the energy to move. Thunderstorms rolled in after we had gone to bed. Nothing too bad, though.

Day 91 - Allentown Shelter to Palmerton

I woke up at 6:15 and was surprised to see nearly everbody already gone. Got my act together quick, but had to wait for Dave. Hardly any air.

First six miles were a piece of cake -- then we started getting into the rocks. Big boulders that you have to stop and climb over, little ones that jab your feet, medium ones that are a pain in the butt. Very frustrating -- especially because Dave seems to go faster over the rocks. I just can’t keep up.

Knew the tears weren’t far away. They came right after a pretty good fall. These rocks are actually mighty dangerous. And I don’t know how someone with a fear of heights could climb over the boulders. Will try to take it slow, though, and change my attitude. Are they really worth crying over?

Stopped for lunch at 10 miles. Didn’t feel like hanging out, so I pushed on. Not as bad as I expected -- but still my feet felt like chopped liver and my left toes were cramping up. Waited at the shelter for Dave for two hours. Started to thunderstorm.

I wanted to head into the town of Palmerton and stay at the “jailhouse hostel” -- actually the town hall basement. Dave surprisingly agreed. Wicked friendly place. They hand out care packages (with stuff donated by local businesses and put together by girl scouts), and the supermarket gives all thru-hikers a free apple. Happy to be here. We made a good decision.

Oh, hot shower, soda machine, and telephone, too. Bought a humongous sub at the supermarket (compromise between eating out and cooking our own food). Dave and the boys are out enjoying their one (I hope) free beer in town.

Day 90 - Windsor Furnace Shelter to Allentown Shelter

Beginning of the day went well. Pretty easy terrain. Excited to get to the Eckville Shelter for a loooong break (to avoid hiking in the heat). Ended up staying from 11 to 5:15. Set up sort of like the 501 Shelter, with a bunkhouse next to a real house.

Lazee is the caretaker, and he's anything but. Keeps a fridge fully stocked with soda, juice, and ice cream sandwiches -- all for a donation only. Shower (cold) too, which felt really good. I sacked out on a lounge chair. Too hot to do much else, and it was tough to get going later.

Longshanks, Longway, Smittee, Swagman, Cameron/7 States, and Murph beat the heat at the Eckville Shelter

Terrain was definitely rockier. Not so happy to be struggling along at the back of the pack. Got to the shelter late again. Just enough time to cook and get things ready for the next day.

Oh, I think I forgot to mention that just before Birch Run Shelter, some people saw an orange cat on the trail. Was it Tiggy? Dave had a dream recently that he looked like the Snuggles dryer sheet bear -- sort of like he’s gotten a perm. Wonder if he’ll be back to normal by the time we see him.

Also, met two women who started hiking in Virginia -- Cool Runnings (because she’s slow, like the Jamaican bobsled team) and Who Cooks for You (because that’s the sound her favorite bird, the bard owl, makes). Great names.

Day 89 - 501 Shelter to Eagle's Nest Shelter

Got up at 6:30, but getting out is another matter entirely. Left at 8:15. The only person we saw all day is Longway. He’s cool -- nice kid.

We went slow and took lots of breaks, which made Dave happy. A bit rockier -- shades of things to come, I know! Been really concerned about the last 75 miles of trail in Penn. There’s one section that Wingfoot compares to being in a scene from Dante’s Inferno -- especially if the heat is radiating off the rocks.

Blur tackles the rocks

Cameron/7 States just pushes them aside

Now I find out that the rocks actually extend into New Jersey. Aargh! Might have to hike this section on my own. Dave goes too fast, and I put pressure on myself to keep up, which is dangerous.

Ate lunch, then Dave, Longway, and I broke out the Z-rests and took a nap. I was nearly comatose. Couldn’t move except to swat those ever-annoying flies. Why do they land on me? What do they think I am? Then there are the small, toothless mosquitoes that fly around your head, giving you a private serenade, up close and personal.

Oh, a bunch of women wearing long dresses and white bonnet-like caps passed us going the opposite direction. I guess they were Mennonites. Will have to do some research on that one.

Day 88 - Rauch Gap Campsites to 501 Shelter

The photo that says it all: Blur (ready to go) and Longshanks (amidst pack explosion)

Good day. Relatively easy walking. Dave and I brought up the rear and took lots of breaks. Really pretty on top of the ridge. Almost looked like a park with grass, but the green stuff is actually some sort of Japanese ground cover (I think).

When we got to the William Penn Shelter, we crossed the “1,000 miles to go” line. Now we're in triple digits. Pandora’s parents drove down from Maine to see him and had a cooler full of soda and snacks for everyone.

Went to the 501 Shelter. It wasn’t as nice as I expected, but we stayed anyway. Big crowd again. Able to buy soda and Klondike bars from the couple in the house next door (the caretakers). Some people decided to slackpack into Port Clinton. I didn’t feel the need to do 23 miles.

Stray Cat has left us, made his move to do more miles. Murph is understandably bummed. Will we ever catch him? Will he come to the cookout in Pittsfield? Stay tuned.

Day 87 - Peters Mountain Shelter to Rauch Gap Campsites

Forgot to mention who we met yesterday. A girl Dave graduated from high school with (Cheryl Dunn) is out here thru-hiking with her husband, Jason. They live in Alaska and started the trail April 10. She seems nice. They are flying -- never stop in towns and have never stayed at a motel.

Kind of got me thinking. Dave too, I guess. We have vowed to try to change our ways in the second half of the trip. No more motels or zero days til Pittsfield. We’ll see if we can stick to it. A lot will depend on the weather, I think.

I slept very well in the shelter last night, despite the crowd. Had on socks, long johns, shorts, three shirts, and my fleece hat. Left late, per usual. Easy terrain, with just one big gradual up. The weather was perfect for hiking -- sunny and coolish with a great breeze.

Smittee, Deuce 1/2, and Longshanks

FYI: My yuckiest breakfast to date: crushed strawberry pop tarts, raisins, chocolate chips, mocha instant breakfast, and warm water. Ate every bite, though.

Have been thinking about how you don’t usually notice what time it gets dark (or light) when you’re inside. Also, we always tend to stay up later when we’re at a place that has electricity.

We’re all at the same spot again tonight. Some are tenting (us); others are in the shelter. Eclectic mix of food. If you’re willing to mix and match, you can do quite well resupplying out of hiker boxes. Dave and I have saved a lot of money this way. Plus we take advantage of hikers who have extra food in their mail drops. Sometimes you don’t know what you’re eating, but we’ve never not finished a meal.

The question becomes, when do you stop taking free food in the name of excess pack weight? Do you just keep taking stuff because it’s free? Even if you don’t like it?

Day 86 - Duncannon to Peters Mountain Shelter

The night was good. I slept well in the soft bed with two pillows and two big windows letting in the breeze. Glad it wasn’t til morning that Dave found the big stains on the sheets.

Left the Doyle at noon. On the way out of town, stopped to talk to a man in his yard. Turns out he’d just gotten back from a week on the Cape!

The climb out of Duncannon wasn’t as bad as I’d expected. Then again, we only did 11 miles. This shelter is mobbed. More than 20 people here, and we all seem to be headed to the same places the next couple of days.

 

The sky has cleared, and now it’s downright cold! But I’m not complaining. Oh, today Dave told me I had my father’s stubbornness and my mother’s energy. I think that’s pretty accurate.

Forgot about the mayfly phenomenon. These small white flying insects descended upon the town, hovering around every light fixture and making big piles at the bottom of doorways. Very strange. I guess they only live for 24 hours or something. Smittee threw a handful of them at me. It was like snow (sort of).

Day 85 - Duncannon, Pennsylvania

Longshanks and Murph at The Doyle

Dave, Smittee, et al. “tore it up” at the bar last night. Good thing beer is cheap here. Actually, the gang mostly hung out on the second floor porch. Stray Cat had gotten drunk early in celebration of his 30th birthday.

I wasn’t much in a drinking mood. Had my pineapple pizza, read for a while, and went to bed. Slept well, despite the insects coming in through the screen-less window. Major thunderstorms during the night. Glad we weren’t in them. Motivation factor was extremely low, and it didn’t take much to convince us to stay another night.

Had breakfast at the diner across the street. Got a ride to the supermarket. All the usual errands that suck up the day. Rained off and on. Bunch of people came into town -- Moose, Smiles and Fiddlehead, Moonshine, Longway, Bad Moon, Lion King, the King… Going to be interesting getting out of town. 

Tried to figure out when we’re going to be in Mass. so we can get started on plans for the cookout/clambake. I decided on the 21st, which I think is very realistic (had to make it a Saturday).

May have to push it a little at the end, but that’s OK. Mom and Dad seem excited about our arrival in Mass. It will be weird to see everyone.

Got dinner at the pizza place again. Dave was talking about what it will be like to deal with life in the “real world” (or off the trail) again. Wonder how I’ll react. Will I go back to all my old ways? Will I be mellower? More appreciative of the little things in life? I hope so. Shared the room with Swagman and Smittee. Oh, Deuce ½ shaved her head. It looks good, but I'm not sure I'd have the guts to go through with it.

Day 84 - ATC Campsite to Duncannon

Ended up being a good night, for me anyway. Those earplugs even blocked the sound of the train 20 feet away.

Up at 5:45, and it was already light. Felt good to be up that early and taking advantage of the day.

Walked into Boiling Springs at 6:30. Cute town with big pond and lots of geese roaming around. Met a dentist who was asking lots of questions about the trail. He even invited us to breakfast (we had already eaten) and came back with a bag of toothbrushes, floss, and toothpaste.

Started walking again at 7:20. Still hot and humid (no rain), but thankfully not sunny. The flat walk through the cornfields wasn’t as easy as I’d expected. Couldn’t get a good rhythm going. After lunch we began a 10-mile stretch indicative of what the rest of PA will be like in terms of rocks. Started off easy but ended up hard. At least it wasn’t huge boulders. Long day, though.

I sweat so much my shorts started chafing me; then I got a blister on my right heel. But we did it -- 26 miles by 5 p.m. As soon as we got to the road, a man in a van slowed down to chat. Asked us if we wanted a cold beer and pulled out two icy Bud cans. Dave was in heaven.

Walked into Duncannon. Nice, old town somewhat falling apart. The Doyle is infamous on the AT. Cheap beer and rooms. We’re staying the night. Peeling paint, windows without screens, bare lightbulbs, community bathroom. Our room is a palace, though, compared to Murph and Stray’s. Had a few drinks, then over to the local pizza parlor. Will we be in any condition to hike out tomorrow?

Day 83 - Pine Grove Furnace State Park to ATC Campsite

We had a good night by the fire. Nice campground. We’re being spoiled again! Too many stores/restrooms within easy access to the trail.

Weary hikers Blur, Longshanks, Smittee, and Pandora at the half-way point

Got a late start, and it was a hot one. First miles were easy. Resupplied at a road just off the trail. Then we did some climbing. I felt like my body temperature must have been over 100. Heat was radiating from my skin -- not to mention the sweat pouring from all of my pores.

 

The sky got dark and thunder started; we thought we were in trouble. But it only rained a little. At one point we got out of the woods, and in front of us was nothing but row upon row of corn and wheat. What a change in the landscape! Hot, too, with no protection from the trees.

Got to a campsite but found out the water was .3 miles away. Bummer. We’re on for the marathon tomorrow. First 13.5 miles are nothing but flat corn fields. Lots of heat lightning now. We’ll see what the night brings. Train tracks right next to us will keep things interesting.

Day 82 - Birch Run Shelter to Pine Grove Furnace State Park

Another beautiful day. I headed off on my own, since Dave seemed to be waiting for Smittee. Easy walking. Really nice.

Got to the campground before noon. Time for the half-gallon challenge (marking the unofficial half-way point of the trail)! I had a pint of Hershey’s mint chip ice cream, then a pint of vanilla and was all done. Dave easily put away his half-gallon of vanilla and later attempted a second (got two-thirds of the way through it). 

Smiles and Murph

Everyone who undertook the challenge met with success, though it took some longer than others. That's a lot of mouthfuls! Luckily, small wooden spoons weren't required (although victors got to take home a commemorative one).

Smittee and Longshanks keep plugging away

Stray Cat raises his arms in victory

Very hot. Just hung out. Took a swim in the pond (in my clothes). Even hit the beach ball around a little! We were supposedly moving on, but motivation levels were low. Ended up staying at the distant campground. Definitely not my ideal choice.

Might do 20 miles into Boiling Springs tomorrow, then a marathon into Duncannon the next day.

Day 81 - Antietam Shelter to Birch Run Shelter

Left Antietam at 8, and we hit a state park after 10 miles. Can you say spoiled? 

The swimming pool was really crowded and caused sensory overload for shell-shocked hikers. But there was tons of room down by the stream. Took a free hot shower and chilled out in the shade. Hot and sunny. 

Left late to do another 10 miles. Some climbs, but interspersed with some great walking. I’ve really liked Pennsylvania so far and hope I don’t come to regret these words. 

Everyone tented out at the shelter. JD was there (from Iowa), Swagman (optometrist from Australia), and Martin from Georgia, who just started at Harpers Ferry. Martin carries a mandolin and did a little playing and singing. So did Fiddlehead. Pretty cool.

Day 80 - Ensign Cowall Shelter to Antietam Shelter

Got up and out at 8! Big doings! Kind of strange to walk the same section of trail three times (since I had done a bit extra and then come back yesterday).

Tough climb to the Devil’s Racecourse. Shades of things to come? A couple of southbounders told us about a cookout at Pen Mar Park, so we started walking quicker! Murph and the gang were already here. A woman named Hat Trick and her husband Dingle, who thru-hiked in ’97, throw this picnic every year. Burgers, salads, chips, soda, brownies… it’s an absolutely perfect day.



The park is big and well-used by families (today is Father’s Day). Taking full advantage! Murph said it was one of the best days of her life -- not just on the trail. Oh, Dave 'kidnapped' my watch from me this morning. I really miss it but will try to readjust.


 

We spent the whole afternoon at the park. One of the highlights was when Dave picked up his socks, which had been drying in the sun. It was like they had been shellacked to be put in the Museum of Natural (or Unnatural) History.

Left at 5:30. A couple of curious people stopped us on the way out to ask the usual questions. Nobody seems to understand what we’re doing! Hiked to the shelter at five miles and it looked like people were staying. But I had wanted to go farther. Then everyone changed their minds and decided to do two more miles.

Good sleep in tent.

Day 79 - Dalgren Campground to Ensign Cowall Shelter

Got up late -- 7:30. Virtually all of the thru-hikers had already left. Smiles and Fiddlehead were still around, though.

Saw the Washington Monument (in Maryland, a rugged stone tower built in 1827), then stopped for lunch around noon. We hadn’t even done six miles yet! Things were not looking good for the planned 18.3-mile day. And the terrain was pretty flat, which made it that much more frustrating. 

Met a guy who was doing the 40-mile, three-state challenge. He had left Harpers Ferry at 4:30 a.m. and hoped to finish by dark. At least I’m not that crazy!

Got to the shelter at 4:30. I was not “done” for the day, so I decided to walk a bit farther and then come back. It’s a good idea, I think. When I returned, there was some trail magic happening. A woman (Pioneer) and her husband (Rider), who hiked the trail last year, came bearing a gigantic bowl of fresh strawberries, homemade biscuits, butter, and jam. Yummy! Apples, too. The woman was very talkative and obviously loved to have any excuse to associate with the trail. Only six of us here to experience the magic. As soon as they left it started to rain.

On the trail recently we’ve seen some beach roses -- reminds me of home. I have been a bit homesick as of late. Really want to see the kitties, and I miss the house. But I guess it would just be the same old, same old. This is definitely more exciting.

Wonder how long it will take us to get through Pennsylvania. Is the really rocky part going to be harder than I’m anticipating? When will we be in Mass.? There’s been a lot of talk about Katahdin lately. I think most people are expecting to make it all the way. Who will and who won’t? Who will be with us if we do? Stray Cat might be pushing ahead; same for Smittee. Dude’s putting in the miles because he has two weddings to go to. What’s happening to our little group?

Was comfortable in the shelter with everyone, but had trouble sleeping. The wooden floor just wasn't very springy. It was raining pretty hard -- glad we decided to stay where we did. Have had this weird Maryland fear thing going on. Blair Witch Project (though no one ever even mentioned the phrase). Will be happy to cross the border into PA!

Day 78 - Harpers Ferry Hostel to Dalgren Campground

Up and out late, per usual. It really looked like rain. Was looking forward to the “National Geographic” view from Weverton Cliffs. Must be much different on a clear day. I didn’t even take a picture.

Hiked to the Ed Garvey Shelter, which is huge and new and beautiful, for a break. All of a sudden Julia walked in, of 'Julia and Virginia' fame. I guess Virginia bailed in Daleville, and now Julia is going it alone. Looks good. Goes by Jules now, but everyone calls her “the Julinator.”

Stopped and had lunch at some picnic grounds. The walking was pretty easy, but the rocks are tough on the feet and knees. Disgustingly humid -- soaking wet hair. Staying at a public campground with free hot (lukewarm, rather disgusting) shower. Lots of people here. No rain yet.

Murph treated everyone to s'mores, courtesy of one of her patients, Thomas. Slept really well. These new 29 decibel earplugs block all noise -- chirping birds and tent zippers and all.

Day 77 - Gaithersburg to Harpers Ferry Hostel

Didn’t get up til after 9. Woke to the smell of fresh-baked blueberry and apple cinnamon muffins, coffee, whipped cream. Kathy really outdid herself. Don’t think she could have kept up the pace much longer, though.

They went out to do an errand, and we packed up. Turns out they had gone back to the outfitter to buy me a titanium spoon and fork set! A little heavy, but how can I not carry it! 

Smittee, Stray Cat, Murph, Blur, and Longshanks

Rode back to Harpers Ferry. Man, it was hot. We spent some time checking out the town, which is a cool old place (reminiscent of Newport). Got a giant vanilla ice cream cone, which was melting rapidly in the heat.

Bumped into Mother Hen, who told us she was having a cookout with her family -- so we checked it out. Lots of food and people, many of whom I’d never met before -- Mad Cow, Big Country, Luna, Two Traex, and the Flying Dutchman. The Flying Dutchman, Serge, is 7’3” and played basketball with the Houston Rockets for a year. He got off the trail in Erwin when he found out his wife was pregnant. Really nice guy.

Lucky Duck and China Girl were there, too. And I saw Dennis, the GoLite guy, from way back in Neels Gap. His hair is long and wild now. I said hi but could tell he didn’t recognize me. Then he said to Murph, “Yeah, I’ve been trying to catch up with Longshanks and Pack-on for a long time now.” Not sure if it’s good or bad he didn’t know who I was. Probably good, though. Murph thinks I’ve lost a lot of weight.

Hit the trail at 7:30. Crossed the bridge over the Potomac River into Maryland. No good camp sites, but there happened to be a hostel .2 miles off the trail. So off we went.

It ended up being a really nice place with a great hiker box and big porch for us to sleep on. Owner thru-hiked in ’99 and was really cool. Mick, who we haven't seen in ages, was there. I got a good night’s sleep on the couch with my new high-powered earplugs. Murph’s brilliant idea: put on bug spray before bed!

Day 76 - Gaithersburg, Maryland

Got up at 8:30. We were treated to a breakfast of bagels and cream cheese, fresh fruit, coffee cake, and coffee. Decided to take a ride to the local outfitter. I got a new tank top to replace my nasty maroon and white one.

Smittee and Stray Cat

 

Back to the house for a fabulous lunch -- sandwiches, salad, hummus, tabouli, tortillas, etc. People who still needed things decided to go to yet another outfitter. I was the only one to stay back at the house. Thought about going for a walk, but the heat convinced me otherwise. Then I took a shower, just because I could.

Had dinner, called home. Kathy emptied her cabinets of hiker-appropriate food, and we loaded up -- eliminating the need for a stop at the supermarket. More trail talk.

Oh, I asked Julia, whose favorite food is mac and cheese, what her trail name would be. She said “the Storyteller” or “Wise Eye.” Very smart and creative girl! Didn’t hit the sack til nearly 1. Big, soft pillows!

Day 75 - David Lesser Shelter to Harpers Ferry

Left at 8:30 to do the 8.5 miles into Harpers Ferry, West Virginia. Very hot and humid! But pretty easy walking. Came to a spot where Smittee and Thumper were taking a break and noticed that someone had scratched the number 1,000 in the dirt. Was that the official spot? Not sure.

We decided to take a side trail to the ATC headquarters and do our errands after that. It was actually kind of exciting. A woman took our picture -- hikers #261 and #262. Surprisingly few, it seemed.

Dave and I were walking to the outfitter when a van stopped next to us. It was Dave's friend Kathy, with Julie and Anna in tow. She and Hunter had rented the van, thinking they were taking in seven hikers (there were actually five of us -- with Murph, Stray, and Smittee). Decided to do the rest of our errands some other time and go back to the house.

Longshanks in Harpers Ferry

We were all extremely ripe, but everyone was very polite. The girls are adorable. Took about an hour to get to Gaithersburg. Beautiful house, with wood siding, high ceilings, and central air. Big deck out back. Dave and I got our own suite, with bedroom, bathroom, and dressing area. The girls gave up their beds so the other three would have a place to sleep.

Dave and I got to use a computer for the first time since May 18th, I think. Forty-two messages. Nothing too exciting. We were all treated to a dinner of grilled chicken and steak, salad, broccoli, etc. Cold beer. Cream puffs for dessert. Told stories after dinner. Very comfortable bed with lots of big, puffy pillows. One was so puffy, in fact, that I pulled a muscle in my back. Ouch!

P.S. -- I am now a bug magnet. Bites everywhere. Is it my high sweet/high salt/high fat blood?