Day 99 - Vernon, New Jersey

Day 99 -- and a good day it was. Got up around 7:15. Everyone else was packing up to hit the road -- but not me. I had a leisurely breakfast, then did my hostel chore of vacuuming. Asked someone from the church if I could stay a second night (supposed to be a one-night maximum) and she said sure.

Decided to go for a walk, so I put on my Walkman and headed out on a fairly major road. Planned to go for an hour, then turn around. Wow, how I missed the woods! Instead of leaves, roots, rocks, dirt and bugs, I was looking down at broken glass, trash, crumbled pavement and dead animals. Lots of dead animals! Usually I smelled them before I saw them -- and oh, what a terrible smell. Most creatures were unrecognizable -- flattened pancakes with fur. Except for the deer (just the front half) and the bird with the broken neck.

I saw one place where an animal had been recently scraped off the road -- little bits of fur still outlined its final resting place. There was no sidewalk, so I just did my best to stay on the side. Overgrown bushes made this nearly impossible at times. Then there were the cars zooming past -- supposedly at 40 miles per hour -- which is quite a bit faster than my 3 mile per hour body is used to traveling.

Most of the cars that had to swerve to avoid hitting me were driven by someone either on the phone or changing the radio station. My life was definitely in far greater danger on the road than it has been for the past three months in the woods.

Then I had to go to the bathroom. When you’re in the woods, it’s easy. Find an appropriate tree in an appropriate location, and do your thing. On a busy road, without any gas stations or restaurants, it becomes much more of a challenge. I finally found a couple of abandoned lodges a good distance off the road and ducked behind one of them.

Even just trying to cross the road can be stressful. How am I going to handle taking left-hand turns (in a car) into busy oncoming traffic?

When I finished my walk, I was more disgusted than refreshed. No pretty views or cool breezes. I remember one nice tree, a couple of wildflowers, and a fleeting glimpse of a live deer. My image of Vernon, New Jersey has been permanently altered as a result of my 1 ¾ hour mid-day roadwalk.

P.S. -- I was on County Route 94.

Finished my walk and was on my way to a strip mall when I saw Dave and Smittee in a gas station parking lot. They were talking to Nimblewill Nomad, author of Ten Million Steps, who’s hiked from Key West, Florida to Cape Gaspe, Canada twice. Seemed like a cool dude. Considering how early Dave got into town, it was obvious that his feet were feeling pretty good.

Tried to decide whether to hike out or not. Since we’d end up at the same place either way, we decided to take advantage of the hostel for the night. Used the computer and the phone. Bought stuff for dinner, and Smittee cooked chicken parmesan subs. Delicious.

Deuce, Bad Moon, Moonshine and Noggin came in. Got to spend another luxurious night on the carpeted floor with a quilt under my body and a pillow under my head. Oh, we got to see fireworks, too. Watched them from the church parking lot so we wouldn’t have to pay. Not bad.

"Hear no" Longshanks, "Speak no" Deuce, and "See no" Smittee

Day 98 - Secret Hostel to Vernon, New Jersey

Woke up to a beautiful day -- sunny and dry but not hot. Bright blue sky with puffy white clouds. Told Dave I’d see him in Vernon on Saturday.

What a great day for hiking. I just ambled along on my own. Saw a great diversity of terrain in this section of trail -- woods, swamp, fields, marshes, roads, farms. Went through a national bird sanctuary, too, I believe. It was really beautiful. The blue of the sky and green of the grass and leaves were brilliant.

Caught up with Murph and Stray. We had a couple of climbs, but nothing extreme. Lots of black
raspberries to pick along the way -- and the blueberries are ripe, too, but require a lot more effort to pick.

Did quite a bit of road walking. Even though it’s flat, it’s really not much fun to pound the pavement in the hot sun. Crossed a field full of beef cattle, then got to the road leading into Vernon. Stopped at a farmer’s market and got an ice cream (malted milk crunch).

Then we hitched to the church hostel. It’s really nice -- big, carpeted room in the basement with AC, tables and chairs, shower, TV, computer, commercial kitchen… There were ten of us here last night. Weird going to bed without Dave by my side, but I was really tired. Put a comforter on top of the rug, got a big pillow from the closet, and crashed. So nice not to have to worry about bugs.

Oh, bought cereal, milk, bananas, and bagels from the supermarket for the next few meals. Cheap and really good! Hope Dave makes it here in good condition tomorrow. I must admit I’m kind of bummed to be getting so far off track in terms of making it to Pittsfield on time (for the cookout), but I know Dave’s feet are more important.

We are definitely in the North now -- crazy drivers, no-so-friendly people, and Dunkin’ Donuts instead of Krispy Kremes.

Day 97 - Sunrise Mountain Pavilion to the Secret Hostel

Got a late start. Really tough to get the legs going again. Dave was hiking in his Tevas since those $20 sneakers had chewed up his feet. He was moving really slow -- for him.

Got to a road crossing where there was supposed to be water on picnic tables. There was, so I loaded up. Eventually a park ranger stopped by and was chatting. He spilled the beans that he’s Desperado -- the one who fills the bear boxes and leaves the water for hikers. Wasn’t too shy about touting his good deeds. Said he’d give Dave a ride to an outfitter if we could be at the Secret Hostel at 5.

That didn’t leave us much time, so we skipped the stop at the lake. Had lunch on a big, flat rock on the side of the trail. I heard a noise behind us and turned my head. There was a black bear no more than 15 feet away! Must have smelled the peanut butter and other snack items. The bear didn’t seem afraid of us at all. I don’t think I was scared -- more like fascinated -- but that would have changed if the bear had come any closer. And if it had tried to attack us, it certainly would have succeeded.

 

My pack was on the ground -- out of reach -- along with my small bottle of mace. “What do you want to do?” Dave asked frantically. I said, “Nothing. I want to take a picture.” But he proceeded to tap his metal knife on the rock and I think yell, “Get away!”

The bear just sauntered away, stopped, got on its hind legs and was sniffing the air. Then it got back on the trail, heading north, and Dave was able to get a good picture, I hope. It was quite amazing -- a once-in-a-lifetime thing, I imagine.

We saw a lot of other wildlife this day, too -- turkey vultures, wild turkeys and their babies, a ground hog (I think).

 

Murph, Longshanks, and Smittee at the Secret Hostel

In a rush to make it to the hostel by 5. Couldn’t find the road we were looking for, and it was getting late. I decided to go backwards and see if we had passed it; Dave kept heading north. He found it first. Desperado was waiting with pizza and beer, as promised.

I headed to the hostel. It’s a great place -- wooden bunkhouses in the middle of an open field. Dave’s “dream place”. Even has an indoor and outdoor shower. Plus electricity (no lights, though). Didn’t do too much exploring due to a late afternoon and early evening thunderstorm.
 

Dave went to get new boots -- got back after 9. We hung out for a while outside. There was a full moon, with clouds dancing across the sky and an orchestra of fireflies in the meadow below. Couldn’t sleep, though. Was it the full moon?

 

Dave said he needed to take tomorrow off so his feet could heal a bit. Another zero day! Definitely not in the plans. In fact, he would have wanted to take a day off at the Secret Hostel anyway, he said. 

 

But I didn’t. No good book to read. Not physically tired or at all ready for a day off. Also, not enough food for both of us to stay an extra day. Maybe that’s just an excuse. Anyway, we decided that he and Smittee would stay, and I’d move on with Murph and Stray.

Day 96 - Mohican Outdoor Center to Sunrise Mountain Pavilion

Really hard time getting motivated in the morning -- despite the chilly, misty, perfect hiking weather. Miles were coming awfully slow. Took a break at seven miles, then lunch after 14.



Terrain was still awfully rocky. My body felt like it was in slow motion. At the 14-mile shelter, there were magazines, citronella candles, toilet paper, and bug spray, courtesy of “Desperado”. Also, Stray Cat opened the bear box, only to find Cokes and Sprites and a bag of cookies. Yum. I guess someone, this Desperado, regularly drops off goodies on the trail in New Jersey.

Oh, we saw a bear in the morning (from a distance) and a mama and her cub (in the far distance) later on. Pretty cool. Million dollar question of the day -- will Worthington’s Bakery be open on the Fourth of July? It’s right on the trail and is a “thru-hiker tradition,” according to Wingfoot.

Well, it was open, but had a pretty disappointing selection. I didn’t even buy anything. Decided to keep going, on to Sunrise Mountain pavilion to try to see some fireworks. Long day -- ended up being 22 or 23 miles, I think, and I was pooped at the end.

The pavilion was huge, with wood columns and a stone floor. Much nicer than I had anticipated. You’re not supposed to camp here, but we’re going to try our luck. We were alone, at first, then a bunch of families started arriving with folding chairs, etc. We had all our clothes spread out, tents hanging out to dry. Then a huge dark cloud rolled in, and within minutes rain was blowing sideways into the pavilion. Luckily, it didn’t last long.

There were some firework displays scattered throughout the valley below, but they were much farther away than I expected. Just little bursts of colored light. Everyone pretty much packed up when the rain came. We all set up sleeping bags on the dry part of the stone floor. It was pretty cold, with wind whipping through the open pavilion.

Cooking at the Pavilion

At around 11, a group of kids who had come up to party started running around like lunatics saying a park ranger was coming. The ranger could have kicked us out, but instead told us about all the bakeries and fast food restaurants coming up. Not a bad night all in all. Couldn’t see the sunrise, though -- too misty. Plus I was busy looking at the backs of my eyelids.

Day 95 - Delaware Water Gap to Mohican Outdoor Center

Up by 7; a little slow getting out. Dave decided to bounce his boots ahead to Kent, Connecticut in the hopes that the outfitter there will replace them.

We had planned to do 17 miles to a Girl Scout campsite. But somehow we ended up at a similar 10-mile AMC outdoor center. Because we did less miles than planned, everyone has agreed to do a longer day tomorrow -- 23 miles to a covered pavilion where you aren’t supposed to camp, but we might try our luck anyway.

It’s fine to be here, but I would have much preferrred two 17-mile days instead. Crossed the Delaware River to get into New Jersey. Eighteen wheelers were flying past us as we walked on the bridge. We’re used to going 2.5 to 3 miles per hour -- not 75 or 80.

New Jersey definitely has a different feel than Pennsylvania. Or is it just because I knew we had crossed the state line?

Still rocky, but we came to a glacial pond after six miles. Really pretty spot. We chilled out for at least a couple of hours talking with the ridge runner. Got to the top of a ridge, where we had our first 360 degree view in a long time. It was nice.

Stray Cat, Longshanks, Smittee, and Blur take a break

Arrived at the outdoor center around 5. It was OK -- nothing special, but they let thru-hikers tent for free. Found Arch Angel in the bunkhouse. He had fallen a couple of times and had blood on his leg and caked in one of his ears, but I guess he’s OK.

Cooked dinner in the lodge. Took a great shower there -- as much hot water as I could stand. Later one of the caretakers, who thru-hiked in ’86, broke out his guitar and sang a few tunes. It was very relaxing.

When we went to bed, it felt so good to crawl into my sleeping bag with my clean body. Very, very comfortable. Slept well, despite the rain. Oh, forgot to mention that at the Leroy Smith Shelter, a number of people independently said they would never hike the trail again -- Pandora, Buzzard, can’t remember who else…maybe Johnnie Aussie. Stray Cat and Smittee, however, say they will hike it again.

I must admit that right now I don’t think I would be interested in another thru-hike. Let me make it this first time, and then we’ll see. Although I have a feeling that with time, you forget most of the bad stuff -- and that could be dangerous. Very dangerous, indeed.

The trail has become so commercialized now, I can’t imagine what it will be like in even five years. There seem to be two opposing factors at work. On the one hand, the trail is getting easier with all the hostels, opportunities to go into towns, soda machines, and trail magic. On the other hand, trail club members seem to be getting younger and more extreme -- and take great pleasure in relocating the trail straight up and over mountains that it used to just skirt around.

Day 94 - Delaware Water Gap, Pennsylvania/New Jersey

Staked a claim on the love seat for sleeping last night. Couldn’t stretch out, but it was better than lying on the muddy, dirt-streaked floor. Did pretty well, once the light was finally turned off.

Those thunderstorms yesterday made the humidity disappear, leaving a brisk, refreshing air in its place. What a difference. It feels like the beginning of fall. Would have been a perfect day for hiking, but I was content to stay.

Dave was concerned about reports of recent bear activity and didn’t want to tent. Also, the usual errands sucked up the day. Took a shuttle to an outfitter. Nothing in Dave’s size. He ended up buying a pair of sneakers at Ames for $20, which will hopefully get him to the next major town.

Took full advantage of the local bakery -- homemade pies, muffins, and cookies. Yum!

Smittee samples the local fare

Spent a while talking to Bob Gabriel, Arch Angel. He was on the trail last year but had to get off due to a serious leg problem. Now he’s back, heading north slow and steady.

We actually met him for the first time at the Palmerton jailhouse hostel. He had a long military career and told me a really sad story about two friends of his who were killed in Vietnam. At the end of it, his eyes were overflowing, as were mine. He talked about how important it is not to take freedom for granted. Also, Angel told me how happy he is to walk through the woods without fearing that his life is in danger.

“I can’t believe no one’s shooting at me. No one’s trying to kill me,” he said. Everyone who passes him in the woods is a friend. Yet again, I have a new perspective on this trail.

Bunch of people came to the hostel during the day, including Moonshine, Bad Moon, and Deuce ½. A hiker's bootless and not so sweet-smelling feet were draped all over the love seat I had slept on the night before. Even though it was quite cold out (for July), I opted for the tent. Felt like fall. We haven’t really walked through the whole summer -- have we?

Day 93 - Leroy Smith Shelter to Delaware Water Gap

Up at 6, out at 7:15. Anxious to finish the last 20 miles of Penn. Didn’t really care what they were like -- just wanted them done.

They continued to be very rocky and annoying. Didn’t take many breaks. Thunder started just before we got to the shelter, so we picked up the pace. Made it just in time. Had lunch, then the sky cleared.

As we were leaving, Murph and Cameron came and delivered some trail magic -- soda and fruit from a couple at the previous road crossing. We headed off to do the last 6 ½ miles and got caught in an absolute downpour. 

Ran through big puddles. Made whooping noises. Took pictures. Very life-affirming stuff. It was especially fun because we knew we were going to a place with walls and a roof and a hot shower.

 Back row: Bad Moon, Longshanks, Mick, Smittee, Will Scarlett, Buzzard; middle row: Blur, Murph, Wren: Front: Stray Cat

The church hostel is nice, but packed with hikers. Not sure what’s up with Lion King, Animal, and Mother Hen, but they seem to be everywhere without doing much hiking.

Went out for pizza. Oh, Dave busted through the sole of one of his boots today (those damn Pennsylvania rocks!). Must find replacements in or around Delaware Water Gap tomorrow.