Day 137 - Zealand Falls Hut to Mizpah Hut

Tons of stars out at night. I didn’t see any meteors, but Dave did. We slept out front on the ground, which was much better than on a dining room table.

Had a pretty good night. Funny to have people walking around me while I was still in my sleeping bag. Had a great blueberry pancake breakfast with the croo. They even gave us a bunch of food to take with us.

Talked with a lot of guests, too, who were really interested in the trail. Mostly women. One said I didn’t look like a thru-hiker because I “looked great.” Must have been that hair washing the night before. It felt sooooo good to get the dirt and oil out. Too bad it won’t last.

Had an incredibly easy seven-mile walk (Is this really the Whites?) to Route 302. Then it was up from Crawford Notch to Webster Cliffs and the Presidentials. It was a good climb.



We thought we reached the top and hung out for a while. Then we kept climbing. Guess we miscalculated where we were again. But it was perfect weather for getting a view -- bright blue sky and puffy white clouds. Not above treeline a lot, though.

Got to Mizpah Hut at 5:30. One southbounder was already here, but the croo let us stay. Not incredibly friendly, but nice. Told us we’ll have to do work in the a.m., which is fine -- but if it’s a really clear day, we’ll be bullin’ to get to Washington. The pasta and calzones we had for dinner weren’t enough to feed these hungry hikers. My stomach was going crazy.

Mizpah Hut

Cold night. Thought about staying outside, but we opted for the bunkroom instead.

Day 136 - Garfield Ridge to Zealand Falls Hut

No rain during the night. Got up at 7, then rested in our sleeping bags on the tent platform, looking up at the sky. More and more clouds started rolling in. Didn’t look good.

Walked a long 2.7 miles to Galehead Hut; kept bumping into chatty dayhikers. Nice hut, recently rebuilt. Stopped for $1 AYCE baked goods (coffee cake) and cocoa. I was soaked with sweat and getting cold. It was one of those “Why am I here?” moments.

But we started walking, and the sun did come out around 2. We weren’t above treeline so much today, so it wasn’t as exciting. A good walk nonetheless.

Got to Zealand Falls Hut around 5. Eventually decided to do a work-for-stay. We’re running out of food, so it wasn’t too tough of a decision. Nice, normal, friendly croo. After setting tables, we hung out by the falls. Then had soup, rice, steak tips, green beans, and homemade bread for dinner. Hung out with the croo at night.

 

We’re sleeping out front, on the ground. There are millions of stars out. Chilly but toasty in my zero degree bag. We’ll hit the Presidentials tomorrow. Looking forward to getting to the top of Mt. Washington (Wednesday).

Day 135 - Lonesome Lake Hut to Garfield Ridge

It was a long day, but a good one. Walked three miles down to Route 3, then took a side trail to The Flume so Dave could use the payphone. He talked to Luke, who can’t hike with us now but wants to in a couple of weeks. We should be pretty far up in Maine by then -- and doing the toughest section of the trail -- but I guess if he really wants to…

Didn’t start hiking again til 12:30. I was a bit concerned, since we had a big climb ahead of us and many miles yet to walk. The climb was tough, but not impossible. Actually, the first part was easier than expected. 

I cannot get over the number of people who hike in the White Mountains. Mostly day hikers -- young, old, and everywhere in between. Lots of French accents. The trail was like a superhighway. I’m really surprised that they’d tackle such tough terrain -- and seem to be enjoying it!



We went up and up, then up some more. But no views at all. Finally we broke through the trees. “Can I look?” I asked. Dave said yes. I turned around and said “Holy shit!” We were so high up. Couldn’t believe the view. And it only got better. We walked along Franconia Ridge. So beautiful with the green trees, blue sky, purple mountains, grey rocks. We could see exactly where we were going. Very cool! There were still climbs, but everything was so open and free.



Climbed Garfield at the end of the day. It looked like something might be rolling in, but never materialized. Stayed at a free campsite with a platform. Cooked dinner and went to bed. Good to rest the weary legs and feet.

Day 134 - Oleson's Pond to Lonesome Lake Hut

Good night’s sleep, followed by a relaxing morning. The up and down stretch to Eliza Brook Shelter (for lunch) was a little tough. Glad we hadn’t done it all in one day. 

Then we tackled South Kinsman Mountain. Quite a climb up steep rocks. I don’t mind scrambling, though, if it’s uphill. My first view above treeline. It was nice, but I don’t really understand what all the fuss is about. Then North Kinsman Peak, followed by a steep descent to Lonesome Lake. Glad it wasn’t raining. 

Lonesome Lake

 Surprised by the number of day hikers out, even though it was a Saturday. We asked for and got our first work-for-stay. Place is run by a “croo,” a group of college kids. We helped set the table and clean up after dinner – about 50 people were staying here. 

The hut has running water but no showers or flush toilets. Simple but nice. Dinner for us was leftovers – chicken and rice, corn, salad, and homemade bread. We ate a lot. 

The croo was drinking spiked punch, playing the guitar, and singing. I think they get a kick out of their “coolness.” It was OK, but made me feel really old. They were up late partying, which meant we were up late, too. Had to sleep on the dining room tables. 

Two women were lost in the woods, and we listened to the updates on the radio all night. Eventually, they made their way to the bottom, eluding the manhunt. Terrible sleep. Tough getting up at 6. Helped with breakfast, then we got to eat. It was OK. 

The whole thing was a good experience, and I’m glad we did it – but I wouldn’t rush to do it again. Left a little after 9. Big day of climbing ahead of us.

Day 133 - Glencliff Hostel to Oleson's Pond

Before I forget, here’s my list of food I’m bringing into the Whites (around mile 1,781):

• 9 Nature Valley granola bars
• 3 Hershey bars
• 2 12-ounce packages of raisins
• 16 slices American cheese (sharing with Dave)
• 17 packets maple brown sugar oatmeal
• ½ tub peanut butter
• ½ bag chocolate chips
• one zipoc of Cheezits

Hope it’s adequate, but if not we can buy leftover food and snacks at the huts -- not to mention visit the snack bar on top of Mt. Washington. And if we manage to get a work-for-stay, we’ll get dinner and breakfast, too. But I’m getting ahead of myself.

Hit the road at 6:15 to climb Moosilauke. It looked pretty impressive on the profile map. Was actually less than two hours to the top, but some solid climbing along the way. Foggy/misty and very windy at the summit. My first time above treeline! Didn’t get the full effect because there wasn’t a view. Pretty cool, though.

Murph on the Moosilauke summit

Then it started to rain, which wasn’t good news for the steep, rocky descent. At least no thunder. Murph and I took it slow, then waited out (or tried to) the rain for a bit. Dave showed up, and I had one of my wet rocks fits. How does he put up with me?? It was not as bad as I expected going down, though it took a long time.

Rain stopped. We went down to the Lost River Gorge snack bar where Murph was meeting her friends who are taking her to the summer camp she works at for a week. We probably won’t hike with her again, since she thinks she’ll get back on the trail where she got off instead of jumping ahead to hike with us. Very sad! I will miss her especially. But we’ll definitely see each other again.

Blur, Murph, and Longshanks

Her friend’s husband gave us a ride into North Woodstock to resupply. Then we got back on the trail. Knew we wouldn’t make it to the shelter, so we just started walking. No miles to finish, no pressure. I was more relaxed than I’ve been in ages. Tough climb coming out of Kinsman Notch, but nothing too dramatically different from what I’ve seen thusfar. I think I can handle these White Mountains after all!

Walked for about an hour and found a great campsite. Didn’t see anyone since we climbed out of the notch. Nice, cool weather. Early to bed!

Day 132 - Hexacuba to Glencliff Hostel

Climbed Mt. Cube, then it was off to find water. We’ve never had to search so hard for it. I was OK in the morning, but ran out at the end of the day.

Definitely in the 90s. Sweat pouring from every orifice. Luckily the terrain wasn’t as hard as the past couple of days. Got to the hostel in Glencliff at 5.

Nice place. Lots of hikers, including a few section hikers and Sobos (and a blue blazer). Watched an incredible lightning storm from the front of the hostel over the mountains. Never heard any thunder or felt any rain, but it must have rained somewhere. Cooled off a bit.

Slept under my own bivy (made by the people who run the hostel). Pretty comfortable. Decided to get up early so I could tackle Moosilauke, my first White Mountain, before the heat/possible thunderstorms. 

Had Murph wake me at 5:15. Ouch. But most others were up soon after, including Dave (who said he wasn’t going to get up that early).

Day 131 - Trapper John Shelter to Hexacuba

There were some sprinkles during the night, which had us running around a bit. Then I couldn’t get back to sleep.

Up at 8:15, out after 10. Another hot one. Dry riverbeds everywhere. Some people who live near the trail offered their hose for hikers to use. 

Had to climb Smarts Mountain in the heat of the day. Not too bad til the end. Ate lunch on top of the firetower, which was nice. Then just a few more miles to the shelter
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Didn’t get in til after 6, even though we only went 12 miles. Noggin and Vascilando showed up later. Noggin said, “There’s something about sweating more than you ever have in your entire life. It’s good for the soul.” How true.

Been thinking about home and the things I want to do there – finish my wedding photo album, bring tons of clothes to consignment, do magazine article research, learn to cook, get a kitten for my parents...

Strange trail-walking thought of the day: How come it’s colder at higher elevations, when heat rises?

Fell asleep like a rock, then awoke to my usual AT mind overload. I just want to get through the Whites – or at least start them and see what I’m up against. Have heard everything from “You ain’t seen nothing yet” to “You’re ready. You can do it. You’ll fly up those mountains.” Probably it’s somewhere in the middle. Hot night.

Day 130 - Hanover to Trapper John Shelter

I got up at 7 and started packing. Let Dave sleep til almost 9. Missed the AYCE breakfast, so I went with Murph to the Bagel Basement. Called home in the a.m.

Met Dave at Ben and Jerry’s so we could get our free “white blaze” milkshake. A 65-year-old man who plans to hike the trail next year started asking us tons of questions. He seemed very excited, and it was nice to be able to help him out. 

But once again, we were still in town at noon, and had 17 miles to walk. Aargh! Dave was hungover and tired – I had no sympathy.

Of course it started to get late and we had many miles ahead. I said I’d be willing to camp short of our goal; Dave wanted to push on – so we did. Got in around 8:30 – didn't have our headlamps on, but it was pretty dark.

We are beginning to encounter some serious water shortages for the first time on the trail. Lots and lots of dry river/creek beds. We’re having to grab water where we find it and haul it up and down mountains til we get to camp. I know, I know – good training. 

We’re in the midst of a heat wave. Some of the low-lying plants in the forest are dying. Doesn’t even cool off much at night. So glad I have my extra thick zero degree down bag!

Day 129 - Hanover

It was a good day not to hike – way too hot. It was probably cooler in the woods, but we needed (and deserved) a day off. 

Got up, did laundry, had breakfast. Then on to the errands – outfitter, post office, hardware store, supermarket, etc., then some more chores – fix sleeping bag zipper, glue soles to boots, waterproof boots, sew food bag and pack cover, organize things to send home. It seems there’s always something that needs to be done. Sort of like home, I guess. 

Watched a little TV, went to the library to use the computer. Got an email from Chops – he was still on the trail in New Jersey, about a week to 10 days behind us. Murph found his Web site, with lots of pictures from the Smokies and before. Everything looked brown and dead or covered with snow. So long ago. 

More chillin’ at the Tabard. Most of the gang was upstairs drinking beer. I went downstairs and watched track and field with Murph and Chesapeake on the big screen TV. Very comfortable. Slept on the couch again, but not as well as the night before.

Murph lounges at Tabard

Day 128 - Thistle Hill Shelter to Hanover

Up at 6, out at 7:30. Another hot one. We were looking forward to getting to Hanover. 

Trail went by a general store in West Hartford. Took a break, then continued on. Did some road waking. Crossed the bridge (state line) into New Hampshire. Sort of anti-climactic, since there wasn’t a sign. 

Heard mixed reviews about Hanover. First impression wasn’t a good one – very yuppie and not too friendly. Decided to check out the “rowdy” frat house, Tabard, first. Frankenstein and Pogo were here. 


Hikers get to use the basement – mattresses on floor, kitchen, lots of small fridges, big screen TV room, laundry. Better than I expected. Not too many frat people here, so we’re sort of on our own. 

Walked to the supermarket to get groceries for the next day. I did some organizing. Watched the Simpsons, then Animal Planet. This reality TV thing is out of control. New one about murder in a small town? 

Murph and Noggin pulled in late. Good to see them. Smittee will be along shortly, Noggin said. Dave was having fun – hanging out and drinking beer. Asked if we could stay another night. Since we were only going to go 1.5 miles, that’s OK by me.

Slept very well on an incredibly comfortable couch in the TV room. I’ll stay another night! 

Note: footfalls and pencil scrawls will be on a one-week hiatus while the hiker formerly known as Blur goes car camping for a week in New Hampshire.

Day 127 - The Lookout to Thistle Hill Shelter

Another tough day. Hot, with lots of ups and downs. Oh, I loved Frankenstein’s entry in the Lookout register – “Vermont and I have had a falling out.” Sums up the terrain pretty well.

We were going through the town that Don’s grandfather lives in – didn’t know if anyone was coming up. But no person or note to be found at either road crossing. Had enough food to get to Hanover, so we skipped a side trip to Pomfret. Met a lot of Sobos, but no Nobos anywhere in sight.

My legs were feeling tight, and my left knee hurt a bit. But all of these ups and downs are good training for New Hampshire and Maine (I hope). Some Sobo’s were saying Vermont was “flat” and “easy,” but others said it was hard – at least in the Whites, you get the climb over with and then ridge-walk for miles.

Don’t know what to expect. Now I hear southern Maine is tougher than New Hampshire. Will try to keep my fears in check and take things one day at a time. 

Got to the shelter a little after 6 – only to find it empty once again! I really thought there’d be some Sobos there. Oh, we crossed the 1700 mile mark today! Dave and I were both exhausted. Crawled into the tent around 9 and slept hard.

Day 126 - Shelburne Pass to The Lookout

Woke up with very swollen eyes – coupled with my facial bubbles and chapped lips didn’t make for a very attractive sight. But we had to go down for our “free” breakfast. Good stuff. Storyteller was there, hanging out for a few days before getting off the trail. Guess he has liver damage, which will make it dangerous for him to continue. He seemed in good spirits, though.

Rained a little, which is always good when you’re inside. Packed up a bunch of summer gear to send back home. When I looked in the mirror with my pack on, I couldn’t believe how enormous it was. Almost bigger than me! Will have to do some trimming/reorganizing.
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Didn’t get rolling til 12:30. I always feel like such a nag. But what’s the point of hanging around when you want to try to do 16 miles? Walked back to the trail and began. Incredibly humid, with some tough terrain. Lots of PUDS (learned this new term -- pointless ups and downs). Decided to push on to The Lookout, which meant hauling water for five miles and going at a good clip so we’d get there before dark.

Not an easy walk. Arrived a little after 8 only to find a big, empty cabin. Wahoo!! Fireplace, roof deck, and front porch. And it was all ours. The owners of Lookout Farm let hikers use the cabin when they’re not around (most of the time).

Ate a big pasta dinner. We decided to sleep up on the roof deck, despite the chance of rain. I reluctantly agreed. It was a bit scary up there. One big roll to either side and you’d be a goner. But that was the least of our worries. Mosquitoes and gnats drove us crazy all night. Even a long-sleeved shirt, gloves, hat, and headnet (and tons of bug spray) didn’t keep them away.

Neither of us slept, but it was awesome to not have to move to see the sunrise. We both felt hungover, and dozed for a few hours after that. Took our time in the morning, then left around 10:15.

Day 125 - Governor Clement Shelter to Shelburne Pass

Up at 5:30, out by 6:30. Could tell it was going to be a hot one. Started the climb up Killington right away. Not too bad.

As we got higher up, the landscape really started to change – dense pine forest with lots of moss and roots. Is that an alpine landscape? No view from the top – had to take a side trail to the summit, but someone said it was hazy.

Murph had just left! Bumped into her on the way down. She hadn’t been planning to stay at the inn, but we convinced her otherwise. Got to the road around noon. No one would pick us up. Is that because of the Mass. guy who just murdered three people and was caught after pulling a knife on someone who had picked him up hitching?

Walked a hot mile uphill in the sun to the inn. Really nice place. Rustic and decorated with lots of dried flowers and wreaths. We got a hiker room (no frills) for $55, including breakfast. Not bad. Unpacked our box of winter gear. Do I really need my zero degree down bag? Mucho weighto. 

Strange rash of small bubbles on my face, plus very chapped lips with the sides of my mouth cracked. Dehydrated? Murph said no. Very annoying, though.

Hung out at the Irish pub with some Sobos and Long Trail hikers. Very hiker-friendly. Had a grilled cheese sandwich and a glass of wine. Yum. None of the guys got too crazy, which was good. Off to a bed with big, fluffy pillows (too big, actually). Even the fan couldn’t keep the room cool. Trouble falling asleep, but happy to be clean and dry and bug-free.

Day 124 - Greenwall Shelter to Governor Clement Shelter

Took our time packing up in the a.m. But we were looking forward to our stop at the Whistestop Restaurant.

Talked to some volunteer trail maintainers, who were putting a boulder in the middle of the trail so people with four-wheel-drive vehicles can’t get through. Also came to Clarendon Gorge, a nice swimming hole. 

Since we were about to go out to lunch, I didn’t feel like going swimming and getting soaked. Dave, on the other hand, never missed a good swimming hole. I don’t mind that he went swimming, but as a result we didn’t have lunch til 2. 

Got a ride to the general store and then walked back to the Whistlestop. Johnnie Aussie was there – hadn’t seen him since New York. Food at the Whistestop (owned by Murph’s friend) was disappointing, but the ice cream was good. 

Late start back out to do another seven miles. Couple of steep climbs got the sweat flowing. Dave had to use the privy, so I went on ahead. Lots of ups and downs. A Sobo [Southbounder] told me about a creek with soda in it, and there were three left when I went by. Sam’s Choice Dr. Thunder is not something I would normally drink, but it tasted pretty darn good. 

The shelter is used by locals for partying, but none were there when I arrived. Bunch of food left by Murph. She’s always just a few miles ahead of us. Set up camp with Johnnie Aussie, Noggin, and Frankenstein. Glad to have the tent to protect me from the bugs. 

Decided to get up extra early to tackle the climb up Killington (and also get to the Inn at Long Trail at a reasonable hour). Slept great.

Day 123 - Peru Peak Shelter to Greenwall Shelter

Slept fairly late again. Just too content to move, I guess. Hit the road at 9. Took a break on top of Baker Peak. The miles were coming awfully slow.

At 1 I think we’d only done seven miles. That makes me a bit anxious, just because it leaves fewer options for what we can and can’t do later on in the day. Was feeling lightheaded at one point. Was it dehydration? Lack of energy due to my oatmeal dinners? Lyme disease? Giardia? Not sure.

Stopped at Big Branch for lunch, then took a break by Little Rocks Pond. It was one of those days when I don’t think we hiked for more than an hour without bumping into someone or taking a break. Sat for an hour while this homeless guy talked at me and Dave about himself. Dave appeared interested. I, on the other hand, did not. Could have pushed on, but it became too awkward. It did piss me off, though, that that hour might later affect where we were to stay that night -- and it did.

Ended up at a shelter .4 off the trail, because right when we reached that point it started to rain and thunder. Pogo and Noggin showed up later. The rest of the gang is about a half-day behind, Noggin said. Since they say they aren’t doing over 15 miles a day, don’t know when they’ll catch up.

Smittee is still hiking with Grace and is going to her family reunion with her this weekend. Forgot to mention (I think) that Moose got off the trail in New Jersey. Then we heard he got back on. Now Stray found out from a mutual friend that Moose is off yet again. At least he gave it his best shot.

I guess I’m resolved to staying on the trail. Only five more days in Vermont, then I just have to make it through New Hampshire. If I get to Maine, I’m definitely not quitting. May have to rethink my strategy of letting Dave make all the decisions. It really isn’t fair or conducive to low blood pressure. Maybe we can plan the itinerary for alternate days. Something like that.

Terrible night’s sleep. Not cold, but had to wear the head net for bugs. Dreamed I was hiking up Killington (that’s a first, I think). Then I couldn’t get back to sleep.

Strange trail-walking thought of the day: Where do bugs sleep? How do they decide when it’s time for bed and where to go?

Day 122 - Stratton Pond to Peru Peak Shelter

Too tired to write last night. It was a long day, but a good one. Our first 20-miler in ages. Probably won’t do another for quite a while, either.

Hard to get up in the morning. Must have been that comfortable wooden tent platform. Got rolling close to 9. Met Sweeper, who already finished his northbound thruhike and is now doing the Long Trail south. Sweeper said the last three states are the “reward” for having come so many miles. I hope so.

Had lunch at Spruce Peak Shelter. Decided to skip Manchester Center, since we didn’t need any food or to spend any money. Headed up Bromley Mountain, which was a tougher climb than Stratton. The top was beautiful, with tons of wild flowers and marsh grass blowing in the breeze against a bright blue sky with puffy white clouds. Made it worth the climb.

In the ski lodge we met Jobnick, who thru-hiked the AT in sections and is now doing the Long Trail. Nice guy. Headed to Peru Peak. It was a good climb, but really pretty terrain -- think pine forest with lots of moss and carpet of pine needles. Did a couple more miles to the shelter -- another $10 donation, but I guess it goes to a good cause.

My feet were sore, but it was a good tired feeling. I guess we passed out most of the gang -- except for Murph, Swag, and Bad Moon -- by skipping Manchester. Another chilly night. Glad to have the insulation of the tent.

Day 121 - Townshend State Park to Stratton Pond

Got up at 7 so we could get out at a decent hour. Planned to have breakfast at the Dam Diner. Chuck especially got a kick out of the name.

I ordered raspberry chocolate chip walnut pancakes. Big stack; looked better than they tasted. Starting to tire of all the comments about how much we’re eating.

Got to the trail around 10:30. Had to choke back a few tears on the way up Stratton Mountain. Wondered whether I should have caught a ride home. Not feeling psyched to be in the woods, as I usually do after a town stop. Bumped into Longway on the way up. Good to see him. Seems like everyone passed us when we were off trail. That’s OK. But I would like to see Murph again soon.

Not a bad climb at all to the top of Stratton. Very dark sky, then it started drizzling. Hold the minivan! Good but not great view from the firetower on top. Got to Stratton Pond on the other side of the mountain and was surprised by how beautiful and peaceful it was. Just sat and watched the clouds roll in and out, listened to the loons. No sandy beach, no masses out for a summer Sunday.

 

Met and talked with caretaker Jungle Jim for more than a few hours. Cool guy. I started to get antsy, but could tell that Dave was not. Oh no -- not again. Procrastinated for quite a while. Then we made our move.

It was getting late, and we were going to have to really push to do the eight miles -- likely finishing after dark. And I just didn’t feel like setting up camp and cooking late. So after some more debate in the middle of the trail, we turned around and headed back a bit to a campsite.

All in all, I’m glad we did. But the tenting area didn’t have a view of the pond, so we could have been just about anywhere. The loons were still in earshot, which was nice -- although a little on the eery side.

 

Oh, I gave Dave total control of our schedule. He’s making all the decisions. This way, I won’t be disappointed/frustrated when we don’t go as far as we had “planned”. And I won’t care if going slow for a day means finishing a day later. I’m going to take this thing one day at a time -- sort of like a recovering alcoholic.

Day 120 - Townshend State Park

Well, we stayed another night. I was pretty sure we would. Good timing, actually, because my motivation to get back on the trail would have been pretty darn low.

Slept great last night. Flat tent spot, warm inside; sweatshirt to cuddle against me, nothing to get up for in the morning. Didn’t get up til 9. Beautiful, sunny day.

Ate homemade bacon, egg, and cheese English muffin sandwiches for breakfast. Then Mary Ellen and I went on a short hike to the top of Bald Mountain, within the park. Tons of parents with young kids. They probably thought they were going on a nature walk. Wrong. This was actually a pretty tough hike -- and steep at the end. Nice without a pack, though.

We could see Stratton Mountain from the top, and it looked pretty darn intimidating. Came back down and washed my clothes in the shower (socks smelled no better than before they were bathed).

We all went to the beach by the pond near the dam (“the damn dam,” as Chuck would say). Really hot in the sun. Made a few phone calls, then we were off to find a supermarket for resupplying. Everyone got a kick out of watching us un-package everything, and put it all in Ziplocs or our food bags.

Longshanks and Craig

Blur and Kara

Had more steak tips for dinner, and Mary Ellen and I split a bottle of white zinfandel. Then we went off to hear a local give a presentation on covered bridges. Interesting at first, but painful after an hour and a half. Finally headed back to the site to get our fire going and make some s'mores. Went to bed around 11:30, and it felt like a Sunday night -- knowing I had to get up for “work” in the morning.

Day 119 - Glastonbury Fire Tower to West Wardsboro Road

Funny how things can change yet again. It was a cold night, with wind whipping through the trees and a clear, unprotecting sky. I had on all my clothes, but my legs and face were still cold. It’s not much more fun being cold than it is being wet.

Was not a happy camper when Dave woke me at 6. Why did we not take advantage of the warm weather when we had it (and do more miles, more easily)? Started crying in the tent, being cold and feeling sorry for myself; wondering what the heck I’m doing out here; worrying that I won’t be able to handle the upcoming physical and mental challenges; thinking about calling it quits.

As I already knew, Dave said that there will be many more cold days, hot days, rainy days, and rocky days ahead. But he also said some of the most exhilarating climbs/views remain to be seen. This I know, but sometimes lose sight of.

It just really freaked me out hitting such cold weather in July. We still have all of August and part of September to get through. Can I really do this for 50 more days? I think I know the answer. The question is, do I want to? I know I want to be able to say I hiked the whole AT, not part of it. And I don’t want this trip to become a sore subject if Dave finishes and I don’t. I guess I’ll keep going, knowing that I can head home at any point in time. I’ll just need to keep letting Dave know how I’m feeling and rely on him for additional support.

Had to hike 12+ miles to get to the road. I wore a long-sleeved shirt, jacket, hat, and long johns for an hour or so in the a.m. -- it was still that chilly. Would have worn gloves if I had them. Good hiking weather, though. Nice and clear and dry. More pretty terrain, more mud. Were making decent time til I tripped over a root and did a face plant. Whacked my knee pretty good.

Really glad to be having some time off the trail with the Guittarrs. Good timing. Waited by the road for a couple of hours -- guess it was a tough place to find. Good to see Chuck, Mary Ellen, Craig, and Kara. They took us to a state campground in nearby Townshend. Nice place. I miss car camping!

Blur, Longshanks, Chuck, Kara, Craig, and Mary Ellen

Mary Ellen had a towel, soap, shampoo, and lotion for me -- I used three quarters and took a 15-minute shower. Borrowed a pair of socks, pants, and a cozy cotton sweatshirt. It’s cool here, but nothing like the mountaintop. Had steak tips, salad, and potato salad for dinner, with coffee cake for dessert.

Funny to watch the masses camping -- blowing up air mattresses with cigarette lighters, unloading armfuls of fluffy pillows, carrying lanterns and industrial flashlights, setting their car alarms, rushing out to buy more bags of ice to throw in their coolers. Haven’t decided whether to stay a second night. Somehow I think we will.