Day 128 - Thistle Hill Shelter to Hanover

Up at 6, out at 7:30. Another hot one. We were looking forward to getting to Hanover. 

Trail went by a general store in West Hartford. Took a break, then continued on. Did some road waking. Crossed the bridge (state line) into New Hampshire. Sort of anti-climactic, since there wasn’t a sign. 

Heard mixed reviews about Hanover. First impression wasn’t a good one – very yuppie and not too friendly. Decided to check out the “rowdy” frat house, Tabard, first. Frankenstein and Pogo were here. 


Hikers get to use the basement – mattresses on floor, kitchen, lots of small fridges, big screen TV room, laundry. Better than I expected. Not too many frat people here, so we’re sort of on our own. 

Walked to the supermarket to get groceries for the next day. I did some organizing. Watched the Simpsons, then Animal Planet. This reality TV thing is out of control. New one about murder in a small town? 

Murph and Noggin pulled in late. Good to see them. Smittee will be along shortly, Noggin said. Dave was having fun – hanging out and drinking beer. Asked if we could stay another night. Since we were only going to go 1.5 miles, that’s OK by me.

Slept very well on an incredibly comfortable couch in the TV room. I’ll stay another night! 

Note: footfalls and pencil scrawls will be on a one-week hiatus while the hiker formerly known as Blur goes car camping for a week in New Hampshire.

Day 127 - The Lookout to Thistle Hill Shelter

Another tough day. Hot, with lots of ups and downs. Oh, I loved Frankenstein’s entry in the Lookout register – “Vermont and I have had a falling out.” Sums up the terrain pretty well.

We were going through the town that Don’s grandfather lives in – didn’t know if anyone was coming up. But no person or note to be found at either road crossing. Had enough food to get to Hanover, so we skipped a side trip to Pomfret. Met a lot of Sobos, but no Nobos anywhere in sight.

My legs were feeling tight, and my left knee hurt a bit. But all of these ups and downs are good training for New Hampshire and Maine (I hope). Some Sobo’s were saying Vermont was “flat” and “easy,” but others said it was hard – at least in the Whites, you get the climb over with and then ridge-walk for miles.

Don’t know what to expect. Now I hear southern Maine is tougher than New Hampshire. Will try to keep my fears in check and take things one day at a time. 

Got to the shelter a little after 6 – only to find it empty once again! I really thought there’d be some Sobos there. Oh, we crossed the 1700 mile mark today! Dave and I were both exhausted. Crawled into the tent around 9 and slept hard.

Day 126 - Shelburne Pass to The Lookout

Woke up with very swollen eyes – coupled with my facial bubbles and chapped lips didn’t make for a very attractive sight. But we had to go down for our “free” breakfast. Good stuff. Storyteller was there, hanging out for a few days before getting off the trail. Guess he has liver damage, which will make it dangerous for him to continue. He seemed in good spirits, though.

Rained a little, which is always good when you’re inside. Packed up a bunch of summer gear to send back home. When I looked in the mirror with my pack on, I couldn’t believe how enormous it was. Almost bigger than me! Will have to do some trimming/reorganizing.
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Didn’t get rolling til 12:30. I always feel like such a nag. But what’s the point of hanging around when you want to try to do 16 miles? Walked back to the trail and began. Incredibly humid, with some tough terrain. Lots of PUDS (learned this new term -- pointless ups and downs). Decided to push on to The Lookout, which meant hauling water for five miles and going at a good clip so we’d get there before dark.

Not an easy walk. Arrived a little after 8 only to find a big, empty cabin. Wahoo!! Fireplace, roof deck, and front porch. And it was all ours. The owners of Lookout Farm let hikers use the cabin when they’re not around (most of the time).

Ate a big pasta dinner. We decided to sleep up on the roof deck, despite the chance of rain. I reluctantly agreed. It was a bit scary up there. One big roll to either side and you’d be a goner. But that was the least of our worries. Mosquitoes and gnats drove us crazy all night. Even a long-sleeved shirt, gloves, hat, and headnet (and tons of bug spray) didn’t keep them away.

Neither of us slept, but it was awesome to not have to move to see the sunrise. We both felt hungover, and dozed for a few hours after that. Took our time in the morning, then left around 10:15.

Day 125 - Governor Clement Shelter to Shelburne Pass

Up at 5:30, out by 6:30. Could tell it was going to be a hot one. Started the climb up Killington right away. Not too bad.

As we got higher up, the landscape really started to change – dense pine forest with lots of moss and roots. Is that an alpine landscape? No view from the top – had to take a side trail to the summit, but someone said it was hazy.

Murph had just left! Bumped into her on the way down. She hadn’t been planning to stay at the inn, but we convinced her otherwise. Got to the road around noon. No one would pick us up. Is that because of the Mass. guy who just murdered three people and was caught after pulling a knife on someone who had picked him up hitching?

Walked a hot mile uphill in the sun to the inn. Really nice place. Rustic and decorated with lots of dried flowers and wreaths. We got a hiker room (no frills) for $55, including breakfast. Not bad. Unpacked our box of winter gear. Do I really need my zero degree down bag? Mucho weighto. 

Strange rash of small bubbles on my face, plus very chapped lips with the sides of my mouth cracked. Dehydrated? Murph said no. Very annoying, though.

Hung out at the Irish pub with some Sobos and Long Trail hikers. Very hiker-friendly. Had a grilled cheese sandwich and a glass of wine. Yum. None of the guys got too crazy, which was good. Off to a bed with big, fluffy pillows (too big, actually). Even the fan couldn’t keep the room cool. Trouble falling asleep, but happy to be clean and dry and bug-free.

Day 124 - Greenwall Shelter to Governor Clement Shelter

Took our time packing up in the a.m. But we were looking forward to our stop at the Whistestop Restaurant.

Talked to some volunteer trail maintainers, who were putting a boulder in the middle of the trail so people with four-wheel-drive vehicles can’t get through. Also came to Clarendon Gorge, a nice swimming hole. 

Since we were about to go out to lunch, I didn’t feel like going swimming and getting soaked. Dave, on the other hand, never missed a good swimming hole. I don’t mind that he went swimming, but as a result we didn’t have lunch til 2. 

Got a ride to the general store and then walked back to the Whistlestop. Johnnie Aussie was there – hadn’t seen him since New York. Food at the Whistestop (owned by Murph’s friend) was disappointing, but the ice cream was good. 

Late start back out to do another seven miles. Couple of steep climbs got the sweat flowing. Dave had to use the privy, so I went on ahead. Lots of ups and downs. A Sobo [Southbounder] told me about a creek with soda in it, and there were three left when I went by. Sam’s Choice Dr. Thunder is not something I would normally drink, but it tasted pretty darn good. 

The shelter is used by locals for partying, but none were there when I arrived. Bunch of food left by Murph. She’s always just a few miles ahead of us. Set up camp with Johnnie Aussie, Noggin, and Frankenstein. Glad to have the tent to protect me from the bugs. 

Decided to get up extra early to tackle the climb up Killington (and also get to the Inn at Long Trail at a reasonable hour). Slept great.

Day 123 - Peru Peak Shelter to Greenwall Shelter

Slept fairly late again. Just too content to move, I guess. Hit the road at 9. Took a break on top of Baker Peak. The miles were coming awfully slow.

At 1 I think we’d only done seven miles. That makes me a bit anxious, just because it leaves fewer options for what we can and can’t do later on in the day. Was feeling lightheaded at one point. Was it dehydration? Lack of energy due to my oatmeal dinners? Lyme disease? Giardia? Not sure.

Stopped at Big Branch for lunch, then took a break by Little Rocks Pond. It was one of those days when I don’t think we hiked for more than an hour without bumping into someone or taking a break. Sat for an hour while this homeless guy talked at me and Dave about himself. Dave appeared interested. I, on the other hand, did not. Could have pushed on, but it became too awkward. It did piss me off, though, that that hour might later affect where we were to stay that night -- and it did.

Ended up at a shelter .4 off the trail, because right when we reached that point it started to rain and thunder. Pogo and Noggin showed up later. The rest of the gang is about a half-day behind, Noggin said. Since they say they aren’t doing over 15 miles a day, don’t know when they’ll catch up.

Smittee is still hiking with Grace and is going to her family reunion with her this weekend. Forgot to mention (I think) that Moose got off the trail in New Jersey. Then we heard he got back on. Now Stray found out from a mutual friend that Moose is off yet again. At least he gave it his best shot.

I guess I’m resolved to staying on the trail. Only five more days in Vermont, then I just have to make it through New Hampshire. If I get to Maine, I’m definitely not quitting. May have to rethink my strategy of letting Dave make all the decisions. It really isn’t fair or conducive to low blood pressure. Maybe we can plan the itinerary for alternate days. Something like that.

Terrible night’s sleep. Not cold, but had to wear the head net for bugs. Dreamed I was hiking up Killington (that’s a first, I think). Then I couldn’t get back to sleep.

Strange trail-walking thought of the day: Where do bugs sleep? How do they decide when it’s time for bed and where to go?

Day 122 - Stratton Pond to Peru Peak Shelter

Too tired to write last night. It was a long day, but a good one. Our first 20-miler in ages. Probably won’t do another for quite a while, either.

Hard to get up in the morning. Must have been that comfortable wooden tent platform. Got rolling close to 9. Met Sweeper, who already finished his northbound thruhike and is now doing the Long Trail south. Sweeper said the last three states are the “reward” for having come so many miles. I hope so.

Had lunch at Spruce Peak Shelter. Decided to skip Manchester Center, since we didn’t need any food or to spend any money. Headed up Bromley Mountain, which was a tougher climb than Stratton. The top was beautiful, with tons of wild flowers and marsh grass blowing in the breeze against a bright blue sky with puffy white clouds. Made it worth the climb.

In the ski lodge we met Jobnick, who thru-hiked the AT in sections and is now doing the Long Trail. Nice guy. Headed to Peru Peak. It was a good climb, but really pretty terrain -- think pine forest with lots of moss and carpet of pine needles. Did a couple more miles to the shelter -- another $10 donation, but I guess it goes to a good cause.

My feet were sore, but it was a good tired feeling. I guess we passed out most of the gang -- except for Murph, Swag, and Bad Moon -- by skipping Manchester. Another chilly night. Glad to have the insulation of the tent.

Day 121 - Townshend State Park to Stratton Pond

Got up at 7 so we could get out at a decent hour. Planned to have breakfast at the Dam Diner. Chuck especially got a kick out of the name.

I ordered raspberry chocolate chip walnut pancakes. Big stack; looked better than they tasted. Starting to tire of all the comments about how much we’re eating.

Got to the trail around 10:30. Had to choke back a few tears on the way up Stratton Mountain. Wondered whether I should have caught a ride home. Not feeling psyched to be in the woods, as I usually do after a town stop. Bumped into Longway on the way up. Good to see him. Seems like everyone passed us when we were off trail. That’s OK. But I would like to see Murph again soon.

Not a bad climb at all to the top of Stratton. Very dark sky, then it started drizzling. Hold the minivan! Good but not great view from the firetower on top. Got to Stratton Pond on the other side of the mountain and was surprised by how beautiful and peaceful it was. Just sat and watched the clouds roll in and out, listened to the loons. No sandy beach, no masses out for a summer Sunday.

 

Met and talked with caretaker Jungle Jim for more than a few hours. Cool guy. I started to get antsy, but could tell that Dave was not. Oh no -- not again. Procrastinated for quite a while. Then we made our move.

It was getting late, and we were going to have to really push to do the eight miles -- likely finishing after dark. And I just didn’t feel like setting up camp and cooking late. So after some more debate in the middle of the trail, we turned around and headed back a bit to a campsite.

All in all, I’m glad we did. But the tenting area didn’t have a view of the pond, so we could have been just about anywhere. The loons were still in earshot, which was nice -- although a little on the eery side.

 

Oh, I gave Dave total control of our schedule. He’s making all the decisions. This way, I won’t be disappointed/frustrated when we don’t go as far as we had “planned”. And I won’t care if going slow for a day means finishing a day later. I’m going to take this thing one day at a time -- sort of like a recovering alcoholic.

Day 120 - Townshend State Park

Well, we stayed another night. I was pretty sure we would. Good timing, actually, because my motivation to get back on the trail would have been pretty darn low.

Slept great last night. Flat tent spot, warm inside; sweatshirt to cuddle against me, nothing to get up for in the morning. Didn’t get up til 9. Beautiful, sunny day.

Ate homemade bacon, egg, and cheese English muffin sandwiches for breakfast. Then Mary Ellen and I went on a short hike to the top of Bald Mountain, within the park. Tons of parents with young kids. They probably thought they were going on a nature walk. Wrong. This was actually a pretty tough hike -- and steep at the end. Nice without a pack, though.

We could see Stratton Mountain from the top, and it looked pretty darn intimidating. Came back down and washed my clothes in the shower (socks smelled no better than before they were bathed).

We all went to the beach by the pond near the dam (“the damn dam,” as Chuck would say). Really hot in the sun. Made a few phone calls, then we were off to find a supermarket for resupplying. Everyone got a kick out of watching us un-package everything, and put it all in Ziplocs or our food bags.

Longshanks and Craig

Blur and Kara

Had more steak tips for dinner, and Mary Ellen and I split a bottle of white zinfandel. Then we went off to hear a local give a presentation on covered bridges. Interesting at first, but painful after an hour and a half. Finally headed back to the site to get our fire going and make some s'mores. Went to bed around 11:30, and it felt like a Sunday night -- knowing I had to get up for “work” in the morning.

Day 119 - Glastonbury Fire Tower to West Wardsboro Road

Funny how things can change yet again. It was a cold night, with wind whipping through the trees and a clear, unprotecting sky. I had on all my clothes, but my legs and face were still cold. It’s not much more fun being cold than it is being wet.

Was not a happy camper when Dave woke me at 6. Why did we not take advantage of the warm weather when we had it (and do more miles, more easily)? Started crying in the tent, being cold and feeling sorry for myself; wondering what the heck I’m doing out here; worrying that I won’t be able to handle the upcoming physical and mental challenges; thinking about calling it quits.

As I already knew, Dave said that there will be many more cold days, hot days, rainy days, and rocky days ahead. But he also said some of the most exhilarating climbs/views remain to be seen. This I know, but sometimes lose sight of.

It just really freaked me out hitting such cold weather in July. We still have all of August and part of September to get through. Can I really do this for 50 more days? I think I know the answer. The question is, do I want to? I know I want to be able to say I hiked the whole AT, not part of it. And I don’t want this trip to become a sore subject if Dave finishes and I don’t. I guess I’ll keep going, knowing that I can head home at any point in time. I’ll just need to keep letting Dave know how I’m feeling and rely on him for additional support.

Had to hike 12+ miles to get to the road. I wore a long-sleeved shirt, jacket, hat, and long johns for an hour or so in the a.m. -- it was still that chilly. Would have worn gloves if I had them. Good hiking weather, though. Nice and clear and dry. More pretty terrain, more mud. Were making decent time til I tripped over a root and did a face plant. Whacked my knee pretty good.

Really glad to be having some time off the trail with the Guittarrs. Good timing. Waited by the road for a couple of hours -- guess it was a tough place to find. Good to see Chuck, Mary Ellen, Craig, and Kara. They took us to a state campground in nearby Townshend. Nice place. I miss car camping!

Blur, Longshanks, Chuck, Kara, Craig, and Mary Ellen

Mary Ellen had a towel, soap, shampoo, and lotion for me -- I used three quarters and took a 15-minute shower. Borrowed a pair of socks, pants, and a cozy cotton sweatshirt. It’s cool here, but nothing like the mountaintop. Had steak tips, salad, and potato salad for dinner, with coffee cake for dessert.

Funny to watch the masses camping -- blowing up air mattresses with cigarette lighters, unloading armfuls of fluffy pillows, carrying lanterns and industrial flashlights, setting their car alarms, rushing out to buy more bags of ice to throw in their coolers. Haven’t decided whether to stay a second night. Somehow I think we will.

Day 118 - Congdon Shelter to Glastonbury Fire Tower

At some point during the night, it started to rain. Hard to tell with the earplugs in. But it was still going strong in the morning. My pack was outside the tent, covered but not well. The shelter was across the stream. We both just rolled over and went back to sleep. “Don’t make me go out there,” I said later.

Then we just lay there for a while, listening to the popcorn popping on top of the tent. There were some puddles inside, too, due to the angle of the tent -- but at least it was warm and semi-dry.

Got our latest start yet -- after 11! Wasn’t actually raining by the time we left -- just damp and foggy with plenty of fresh mud. Steep, wet, rocky descent after Harmon Hill -- my favorite kind! I really can’t wait til I don’t have to do another one of those. It’s not fun or rewarding (Ooh, the bottom of the mountain! Oh, the street!). Maybe I’m just a baby and a wimp.

I’m a pretty low-maintenance person, but there are a few simple pleasures I enjoy and really miss out here -- hot, running water; a roof, and four walls. Those are the big ones. A toilet and electricity are nice, too.

After the rain passed, the air changed completely and a cold front moved in. Get me my winter clothes back! Luckily I still have a jacket, hat, and long underwear. Climbed Glastonbury Mountain to a log cabin shelter. Really pretty walk and not too tough -- even though we got up around 3500 feet.

 

We and Greenlight decided to camp up by the firetower. We’re the only ones here. Nice flat ground. Had instant oatmeal for dinner. Dave poured some boiling water in my Nalgene bottle; I added a few drops of Tabasco and voila -- a tea-like drink. Sat up in the fire tower til the sun set. Great view but really windy. Definitely “worth the climb,” as Wingfoot said.

 Ended up being a really good day. Funny how things can change so quickly.

Day 117 - Sherman Brook Campsites to Congdon Shelter

I was a bit shaken up by that falling tree. No storm, no wind. I guess it was just that tree’s time. Strange that we happened to be right there when it happened.

Oh, there was one other group camping where we stopped. They were making a lot of noise until we showed up. It was getting dark -- couldn’t really see them. But all we could hear was, “Shhhhh…thru-hikers!” over and over again. How did they know? Could they smell us?

The rain never came last night. So we stayed dry on the tent platform. Slept in, too. We took our time packing up. Nice to be just the two of us again. Also nice not to have a whole stream of people hitting the trail at the same time.

Met a bunch more southbounders. I really like talking to them and hearing what they have to say about the trail ahead. Sneak preview of coming attractions!

After a couple of miles, we hit the Vermont border. Massachusetts went by fast, even with the Pittsfield break. I’m excited to be in the “final three.” Everyone had good things to say about Vermont -- rolling hills and no boulders. But coming from New Hampshire, how could you not like the Green Mountain state?

It was a good first 10 miles -- very green and pretty, despite the deer flies and blackflies (ouch!). Dave was feeling really tired, so we decided to stay at the 12-mile shelter. That was fine with me, since we got such a late start.

There’s a couple here who are just starting the Long Trail. I have a feeling we’re going to see a lot more non-AT hikers than we have in a while. Loose Goose got in late after a night in North Adams; Smittee is still behind us.

Looking forward to seeing Mary Ellen and crew on Friday. Shower? Laundry? Planning a big 14-mile day tomorrow. We haven’t done that many miles since last Thursday.