Day 143 - Gentian Pond to Full Goose Shelter

Good night’s sleep on the tent platform. We went to bed early -- not much else to do. Nice to be semi-clean inside my sleeping bag.

Up at 6:30, out at 7:30. They weren’t kidding when they said this terrain was tough. Steep ups, steep downs, all rocks and roots -- miles come very slowly. At least it was cooler and cloudy. We were sweating up a storm nonetheless.

Four and a half miles to the NH/Maine border. We did it! I did it! Now I can truly say I walked from Georgia to Maine, even if I don’t make it all the way. I still have my doubts. Oh, just before the border I saw a black bear. Heard it before I saw it. Dave was a bit ahead. The bear started to move away, then stopped and turned around and started coming back towards the trail. I didn’t stick around to find out its intentions.

Did a shot of whiskey out of a Gatorade bottle at the border. Our last state line! Maine certainly didn’t start off gently. The rain didn’t help at all -- turned rocks and roots into banana peels. It’s really dangerous walking. I did OK, though, kept myself under control. 

Clockwise from left: Boog, Swagman, Bad Moon, Blur, and Longshanks

It was a long, tiring 10 miles to the shelter -- made longer by the rain. What will the weather be like tomorrow, when we tackle “the toughest mile on the AT” -- Mahoosuc Notch? Rain would make the day much more stressful.

Hopefully we’ll go at least 10 miles -- although Dave mentioned a shelter at 5. Sometimes I think we’re never going to finish this trail! We went from an early September projected done date to Sept. 15. I don’t know if I’ll be up for going to Acadia if we finish that late. I just want to go home!

I’m warm and dry in the shelter but will have to put on my wet, smelly clothes in the a.m. Ew! I’m the only woman here out of eight thru-hikers. Something about this adventure definitely appeals more to males than females. I would not be here right now if it weren’t for Dave. He’s pulled me though many rough times. I have a lot of admiration for the solo thru-hikers (especially women).

Day 142 - Gorham to Gentian Pond

Up at 8:15. Took a shower, just because I could. Called home and gave Dad the shelter run-down.

Got a hitch back to the trailhead and started walking around 11:30. Very hot with the sun out. Some steep climbs, which I was sort of expecting and sort of not. But we took it nice and slow.

Last five miles weren’t bad at all. At the shelter with Swag, Bad Moon, Frankenstein, Cy, Babbalouie and Shiloh. We hit Maine tomorrow! The profile map for the miles ahead is pretty intimidating, but I know we can handle 12 miles a day. Is Dave going to start dragging his heels, though?

Day 141 - Gorham, New Hampshire

As I said, did errands and took a nap during the day. Got to stay in the same room, big moneysaver. Decided to go for a real sit-down dinner -- how strange. Went to a place that specializes in turkey -- so I got the hot turkey platter. Yuk. Maybe I’ll go back to being a vegetarian after all.

But we had a nice time -- just the two of us, for a change. Everyone else was at the hostel. An ice cream cone, then off to veg in front of the TV. Now this is living! I thoroughly enjoyed myself. Another great night’s sleep with two pillows and AC. Can you say spoiled?

Day 140 - Carter Notch campsite to Gorham

Got packed up quick so the tent wouldn’t get wet. Climbed up to Carter Dome, followed by three more Carter peaks.

 

Then we hit a nasty, rocky descent. Just the kind that I hate, especially when wet. Actually had to take my pack off at one point. Also did a lot of sliding down rocks, which felt lovely when the small pebbles and dirt particles ground into the backs of my thighs.

After lunch the terrain flattened out quite a bit. We planned to stay at the shelter two miles out of Gorham to save money, even if it was raining. However, when we got there, Dave made an “executive decision” to push into town. I didn’t resist too hard.


 
First we stopped at The Barn, a hostel. Saw Swagman, Bad Moon, Frankenstein, etc. Really crowded. We walked further into town and found a motel room with bath down the hall for $32. Perfect! Great shower, soft bed, nice pillows. Met some hikers at the Chinese restaurant across the street. One beer and I was feeling pretty loopy. Went back to the room, had some oatmeal, and zonked out.

Took it easy in the morning, then we split up to do the usual town errands. Took a nap in the afternoon. Watched TV. Awesome day! Feel very refreshed and ready to tackle these last 300 miles. How hard will the Mahoosics be? Can they be that much more difficult than the Whites? Will they be even more beautiful? Can I handle 10-12 miles per day? I think so. No, I know so.

Day 139 - Mt. Madison to Carter Notch campsite

A campsite for two on top of Mt. Madison

 I’ve been getting behind in my journal writing. Let’s see… Great night’s sleep on top of Mt. Madison. I was so exhausted that the rocks beneath me almost felt like little pillows -- almost.

 
Had breakfast, then started the long, rocky, rooty, slow descent into Pinkham Notch. Thank goodness we hadn’t tried that hike at night. It would have been disastrous, I think.

Got to Pinkham Notch and the AYCE buffet around noon. I filled up on fruit punch and hummus sandwiches. Not psyched about the upcoming climb up to Wildcat Mountain’s five peaks. Quite a strenuous hike, followed by a steep descent into Carter Notch. When I stopped hiking, I realized that my toes were killing me.

Got water at Carter Notch (no food there) and walked a couple tenths of a mile to a decent campsite. Couldn’t sleep. I think it was a combination of being disgustingly dirty and having many thoughts (trail and otherwise) spinning around in my head.

Woke up to a very grey, heavy sky. Rain was near. Glad it was our last day in the Whites (rained on our first day, too).

Day 138 - Mizpah Hut to Mt. Madison

What a day! (in more ways than one). I didn’t have a great night’s sleep in the bunkroom. Too dark. Thank goodness for the skylight, which helped a little.

Worked breakfast and got to eat leftover scrambled eggs, blueberry cake, and grits. Then we were asked to clean out under all the mattresses (lots of them). It took quite a while. Finally headed out to climb Mt. Washington.

Lake of the Clouds

Another perfect day. We were told there was 70-mile visibility from the summit -- almost enough to see the ocean. Lots of people around. It was a steady climb to the peak. Great views from the top -- along with a parking lot and tons of people. Kind of like Disneyworld. Went downstairs to the backpacker room, then had lunch and hung out for a while.

It was late by the time we left, and the sun was beating down on us above treeline. Got to Madison Spring Hut at 7:30 p.m. The croo already had two thru-hikers staying there and turned us away, but said we could each pay $10 to sleep on a table. They had offered hiker duo Team GAK the same deal for $6. Bunch of college kids collecting some beer money on the side, I think.

So we headed out at 8 (sunset) and had to climb Mt. Madison. Very rocky. Fine going up, not so fine going down. I wouldn't have liked the descent on a dry day, and was positively not comfortable hiking down with a headlamp. Very fortunate to find a semi-flat spot about 25 feet past the summit -- big enough for two sleeping bags and that’s about it. Beautiful night, with a sky full of stars and no chance of rain. Not too cold, either. We cooked dinner and hit the sack. I was physically and mentally exhausted and slept quite well, despite the rocks. Up at 7.

Oh, forgot to mention my crying fit on the way to the hut. Just tired of walking, especially on rocks, tired of trying (and failing) to keep up with Dave. Said I might not make it to Maine and that maybe I don’t want it badly enough. But Dave said I would have given up long before now if I didn’t have it in me. I guess this is true. How did I get so lucky to find this man, who says and does just the right things at the right time??

Day 137 - Zealand Falls Hut to Mizpah Hut

Tons of stars out at night. I didn’t see any meteors, but Dave did. We slept out front on the ground, which was much better than on a dining room table.

Had a pretty good night. Funny to have people walking around me while I was still in my sleeping bag. Had a great blueberry pancake breakfast with the croo. They even gave us a bunch of food to take with us.

Talked with a lot of guests, too, who were really interested in the trail. Mostly women. One said I didn’t look like a thru-hiker because I “looked great.” Must have been that hair washing the night before. It felt sooooo good to get the dirt and oil out. Too bad it won’t last.

Had an incredibly easy seven-mile walk (Is this really the Whites?) to Route 302. Then it was up from Crawford Notch to Webster Cliffs and the Presidentials. It was a good climb.



We thought we reached the top and hung out for a while. Then we kept climbing. Guess we miscalculated where we were again. But it was perfect weather for getting a view -- bright blue sky and puffy white clouds. Not above treeline a lot, though.

Got to Mizpah Hut at 5:30. One southbounder was already here, but the croo let us stay. Not incredibly friendly, but nice. Told us we’ll have to do work in the a.m., which is fine -- but if it’s a really clear day, we’ll be bullin’ to get to Washington. The pasta and calzones we had for dinner weren’t enough to feed these hungry hikers. My stomach was going crazy.

Mizpah Hut

Cold night. Thought about staying outside, but we opted for the bunkroom instead.

Day 136 - Garfield Ridge to Zealand Falls Hut

No rain during the night. Got up at 7, then rested in our sleeping bags on the tent platform, looking up at the sky. More and more clouds started rolling in. Didn’t look good.

Walked a long 2.7 miles to Galehead Hut; kept bumping into chatty dayhikers. Nice hut, recently rebuilt. Stopped for $1 AYCE baked goods (coffee cake) and cocoa. I was soaked with sweat and getting cold. It was one of those “Why am I here?” moments.

But we started walking, and the sun did come out around 2. We weren’t above treeline so much today, so it wasn’t as exciting. A good walk nonetheless.

Got to Zealand Falls Hut around 5. Eventually decided to do a work-for-stay. We’re running out of food, so it wasn’t too tough of a decision. Nice, normal, friendly croo. After setting tables, we hung out by the falls. Then had soup, rice, steak tips, green beans, and homemade bread for dinner. Hung out with the croo at night.

 

We’re sleeping out front, on the ground. There are millions of stars out. Chilly but toasty in my zero degree bag. We’ll hit the Presidentials tomorrow. Looking forward to getting to the top of Mt. Washington (Wednesday).

Day 135 - Lonesome Lake Hut to Garfield Ridge

It was a long day, but a good one. Walked three miles down to Route 3, then took a side trail to The Flume so Dave could use the payphone. He talked to Luke, who can’t hike with us now but wants to in a couple of weeks. We should be pretty far up in Maine by then -- and doing the toughest section of the trail -- but I guess if he really wants to…

Didn’t start hiking again til 12:30. I was a bit concerned, since we had a big climb ahead of us and many miles yet to walk. The climb was tough, but not impossible. Actually, the first part was easier than expected. 

I cannot get over the number of people who hike in the White Mountains. Mostly day hikers -- young, old, and everywhere in between. Lots of French accents. The trail was like a superhighway. I’m really surprised that they’d tackle such tough terrain -- and seem to be enjoying it!



We went up and up, then up some more. But no views at all. Finally we broke through the trees. “Can I look?” I asked. Dave said yes. I turned around and said “Holy shit!” We were so high up. Couldn’t believe the view. And it only got better. We walked along Franconia Ridge. So beautiful with the green trees, blue sky, purple mountains, grey rocks. We could see exactly where we were going. Very cool! There were still climbs, but everything was so open and free.



Climbed Garfield at the end of the day. It looked like something might be rolling in, but never materialized. Stayed at a free campsite with a platform. Cooked dinner and went to bed. Good to rest the weary legs and feet.

Day 134 - Oleson's Pond to Lonesome Lake Hut

Good night’s sleep, followed by a relaxing morning. The up and down stretch to Eliza Brook Shelter (for lunch) was a little tough. Glad we hadn’t done it all in one day. 

Then we tackled South Kinsman Mountain. Quite a climb up steep rocks. I don’t mind scrambling, though, if it’s uphill. My first view above treeline. It was nice, but I don’t really understand what all the fuss is about. Then North Kinsman Peak, followed by a steep descent to Lonesome Lake. Glad it wasn’t raining. 

Lonesome Lake

 Surprised by the number of day hikers out, even though it was a Saturday. We asked for and got our first work-for-stay. Place is run by a “croo,” a group of college kids. We helped set the table and clean up after dinner – about 50 people were staying here. 

The hut has running water but no showers or flush toilets. Simple but nice. Dinner for us was leftovers – chicken and rice, corn, salad, and homemade bread. We ate a lot. 

The croo was drinking spiked punch, playing the guitar, and singing. I think they get a kick out of their “coolness.” It was OK, but made me feel really old. They were up late partying, which meant we were up late, too. Had to sleep on the dining room tables. 

Two women were lost in the woods, and we listened to the updates on the radio all night. Eventually, they made their way to the bottom, eluding the manhunt. Terrible sleep. Tough getting up at 6. Helped with breakfast, then we got to eat. It was OK. 

The whole thing was a good experience, and I’m glad we did it – but I wouldn’t rush to do it again. Left a little after 9. Big day of climbing ahead of us.

Day 133 - Glencliff Hostel to Oleson's Pond

Before I forget, here’s my list of food I’m bringing into the Whites (around mile 1,781):

• 9 Nature Valley granola bars
• 3 Hershey bars
• 2 12-ounce packages of raisins
• 16 slices American cheese (sharing with Dave)
• 17 packets maple brown sugar oatmeal
• ½ tub peanut butter
• ½ bag chocolate chips
• one zipoc of Cheezits

Hope it’s adequate, but if not we can buy leftover food and snacks at the huts -- not to mention visit the snack bar on top of Mt. Washington. And if we manage to get a work-for-stay, we’ll get dinner and breakfast, too. But I’m getting ahead of myself.

Hit the road at 6:15 to climb Moosilauke. It looked pretty impressive on the profile map. Was actually less than two hours to the top, but some solid climbing along the way. Foggy/misty and very windy at the summit. My first time above treeline! Didn’t get the full effect because there wasn’t a view. Pretty cool, though.

Murph on the Moosilauke summit

Then it started to rain, which wasn’t good news for the steep, rocky descent. At least no thunder. Murph and I took it slow, then waited out (or tried to) the rain for a bit. Dave showed up, and I had one of my wet rocks fits. How does he put up with me?? It was not as bad as I expected going down, though it took a long time.

Rain stopped. We went down to the Lost River Gorge snack bar where Murph was meeting her friends who are taking her to the summer camp she works at for a week. We probably won’t hike with her again, since she thinks she’ll get back on the trail where she got off instead of jumping ahead to hike with us. Very sad! I will miss her especially. But we’ll definitely see each other again.

Blur, Murph, and Longshanks

Her friend’s husband gave us a ride into North Woodstock to resupply. Then we got back on the trail. Knew we wouldn’t make it to the shelter, so we just started walking. No miles to finish, no pressure. I was more relaxed than I’ve been in ages. Tough climb coming out of Kinsman Notch, but nothing too dramatically different from what I’ve seen thusfar. I think I can handle these White Mountains after all!

Walked for about an hour and found a great campsite. Didn’t see anyone since we climbed out of the notch. Nice, cool weather. Early to bed!

Day 132 - Hexacuba to Glencliff Hostel

Climbed Mt. Cube, then it was off to find water. We’ve never had to search so hard for it. I was OK in the morning, but ran out at the end of the day.

Definitely in the 90s. Sweat pouring from every orifice. Luckily the terrain wasn’t as hard as the past couple of days. Got to the hostel in Glencliff at 5.

Nice place. Lots of hikers, including a few section hikers and Sobos (and a blue blazer). Watched an incredible lightning storm from the front of the hostel over the mountains. Never heard any thunder or felt any rain, but it must have rained somewhere. Cooled off a bit.

Slept under my own bivy (made by the people who run the hostel). Pretty comfortable. Decided to get up early so I could tackle Moosilauke, my first White Mountain, before the heat/possible thunderstorms. 

Had Murph wake me at 5:15. Ouch. But most others were up soon after, including Dave (who said he wasn’t going to get up that early).

Day 131 - Trapper John Shelter to Hexacuba

There were some sprinkles during the night, which had us running around a bit. Then I couldn’t get back to sleep.

Up at 8:15, out after 10. Another hot one. Dry riverbeds everywhere. Some people who live near the trail offered their hose for hikers to use. 

Had to climb Smarts Mountain in the heat of the day. Not too bad til the end. Ate lunch on top of the firetower, which was nice. Then just a few more miles to the shelter
.

Didn’t get in til after 6, even though we only went 12 miles. Noggin and Vascilando showed up later. Noggin said, “There’s something about sweating more than you ever have in your entire life. It’s good for the soul.” How true.

Been thinking about home and the things I want to do there – finish my wedding photo album, bring tons of clothes to consignment, do magazine article research, learn to cook, get a kitten for my parents...

Strange trail-walking thought of the day: How come it’s colder at higher elevations, when heat rises?

Fell asleep like a rock, then awoke to my usual AT mind overload. I just want to get through the Whites – or at least start them and see what I’m up against. Have heard everything from “You ain’t seen nothing yet” to “You’re ready. You can do it. You’ll fly up those mountains.” Probably it’s somewhere in the middle. Hot night.

Day 130 - Hanover to Trapper John Shelter

I got up at 7 and started packing. Let Dave sleep til almost 9. Missed the AYCE breakfast, so I went with Murph to the Bagel Basement. Called home in the a.m.

Met Dave at Ben and Jerry’s so we could get our free “white blaze” milkshake. A 65-year-old man who plans to hike the trail next year started asking us tons of questions. He seemed very excited, and it was nice to be able to help him out. 

But once again, we were still in town at noon, and had 17 miles to walk. Aargh! Dave was hungover and tired – I had no sympathy.

Of course it started to get late and we had many miles ahead. I said I’d be willing to camp short of our goal; Dave wanted to push on – so we did. Got in around 8:30 – didn't have our headlamps on, but it was pretty dark.

We are beginning to encounter some serious water shortages for the first time on the trail. Lots and lots of dry river/creek beds. We’re having to grab water where we find it and haul it up and down mountains til we get to camp. I know, I know – good training. 

We’re in the midst of a heat wave. Some of the low-lying plants in the forest are dying. Doesn’t even cool off much at night. So glad I have my extra thick zero degree down bag!

Day 129 - Hanover

It was a good day not to hike – way too hot. It was probably cooler in the woods, but we needed (and deserved) a day off. 

Got up, did laundry, had breakfast. Then on to the errands – outfitter, post office, hardware store, supermarket, etc., then some more chores – fix sleeping bag zipper, glue soles to boots, waterproof boots, sew food bag and pack cover, organize things to send home. It seems there’s always something that needs to be done. Sort of like home, I guess. 

Watched a little TV, went to the library to use the computer. Got an email from Chops – he was still on the trail in New Jersey, about a week to 10 days behind us. Murph found his Web site, with lots of pictures from the Smokies and before. Everything looked brown and dead or covered with snow. So long ago. 

More chillin’ at the Tabard. Most of the gang was upstairs drinking beer. I went downstairs and watched track and field with Murph and Chesapeake on the big screen TV. Very comfortable. Slept on the couch again, but not as well as the night before.

Murph lounges at Tabard