Day 18 - Russell Field Shelter to Silers Bald Shelter

Food bags hung out of reach of bears

Let's see… I forgot to mention that along the way yesterday, all of a sudden we turned a corner and the ground was covered with little white flowers. It almost looked like snowflakes dotting the green grass. I didn’t take a picture because I expected to see millions of them in the Smoky Mountains (turns out they are called spring beauties). Anyway, it was too cold and wet today for the beauties to show their sweet faces.

Russell Field Shelter

Back to last night. I was a bit concerned being in a crowded shelter, but at least we were on the top bunk. And there are fireplaces in these stone shelters, which is nice. 

A guy staying here said it was too early for him to go to sleep when it got dark, so he tended the fire for a while. I did OK once I put my earplugs in. But there was a man whose snore sounded just like a bear growling, so I immediately looked outside, expecting to see a large animal on the other side of the cage. Nothing.

I guess it poured in the morning, but I didn’t hear a thing. Had a squabble with Dave. Then my pack cover broke. And as we began to walk, it started to pour. Lovely.

We had a 15-mile day ahead of us. I just wasn’t into it. Fell all the way down into the mud, and that was my breaking point. Was by myself, so I started to cry. Wondering what I’d gotten myself into and whether I could really last 5 ½ more months. Dave stopped to wait for me, and he was upset that I hadn’t said anything to him sooner. I was cold and wet and miserable and really having trouble moving one foot in front of the other. Sometimes the days just seem so long, and the miles come so slowly.

I’ve read that it takes six to eight weeks to get into “trail shape,” so I guess I’ve got a ways to go. We kept walking and soon enough came to a shelter -- 9 ½ miles down, 5 ½ to go. Ate some lunch but was so cold and wet I just had to start moving.

The miles were pretty easy ones, which helped us make good time to the shelter. And the rain had stopped! Took the opportunity to clean my muddy self off at the river and change into some dry clothes. Much better! This shelter looks the same as the last one and is just as crowded.

P.S. -- Found out from Breaking Wind that Pacman is a professional tennis player. Pretty cool!

Day 17 - Fontana Dam to Russell Field Shelter

We ate dinner last night at the restaurant. The buffet was too expensive, so we just ordered meals. Ate with Hipbone and Mountain Goat (from North Carolina). They keep saying how when they met us, I looked so clean! I guess it was my “pretty shirt” that threw them off. 

Hipbone said he thought my trail name should be Precarious, kind of a play on my real name and reference to the dangerous spot we were in when they met us. Hung out with them and Tim for a bit. He’s really funny, but was saying how Hot Springs may be Maine for him. He just hasn’t been having fun lately. We’ll see what happens.

We watched TV a little at night, but eventually it was time for bed. I actually did quite well. The bed was really comfortable, and especially the pillow.

Got up and went to the breakfast buffet, which meant we wouldn’t need to stop for lunch. Got the shuttle back to Fontana Dam, and who were there but Tim and Donna (and Donna’s son). They had driven out and got to the shelter at 1 a.m. -- then had driven around Fontana Village looking for us. After only a few hours of sleep, they got up at 5:30 to start cooking the eggs and bacon they had brought!

Murph, Dave, Tim, and Charlie

Anyway, it was good to see them for what will probably be the last time (for a while, anyway). Then we entered the Smoky Mountains National Park. It was a late start and a tough climb, especially after half a day off. Those 13 miles were really tough ones for me. We saw some bear scat along the way (on the trail). Finally got to the shelter and found that it does have a cage on the front. Bears have been seen here in the past week. We set up the tent, but then Dave found that the shelter had room. So here we are.

Day 16 - Cable Gap Shelter to Fontana Dam

It was pouring in the morning, which makes packing up all that more slow and difficult. I didn’t even bother wearing my jacket, because it gets wet on the outside and I sweat so much that my clothes get wet anyway. 

Dave and I didn’t have anything for breakfast, as we had eaten our pop-tarts after dinner. I guess I should have bought extra food just in case. Now I know. 

We had 6.6 miles to do to get to Fontana Dam, and Dave was raring to go. I had to run on the flat parts to catch up with him. The rain was pouring down, which made the leaves, roots, and rocks that much more slippery. 

I had this strange flashback to a raincoat I had when I was little. It said “Rain is a pain in the shell” and had a picture of a blue turtle on the back. Then, what did we encounter on the trail but a small turtle -- orange and yellow and black. It blended in well with the dead leaves on the ground. 

We made it to Fontana by 10:30. Were walking to the showers when T-Bo drove by with Charlie, Dan, and Ken inside. He picked us all up and took us to the “resort.” This isn’t a real town, just a touristy village with a hotel, cabins, grocery store, laundromat, etc. We got the only available clean room at the time. Murph and Charlie are going in on it with us, so it comes to only $10 per person. I took a wonderfully hot shower that blasted the dirt right off of me.

Just hanging in Fontana today. Did laundry, resupplied, sent a few things home (two Nalgene bottles, extra gloves, half of my guidebooks, multi-tool). Waiting for the dinner buffet to start at 5. Hope I can sleep tonight, but if not, I’ll be dry, warm, and comfortable. Maybe earplugs will help.

Day 15 - Sassafrass Gap to Cable Gap Shelter

Well, it was a good experiment, but not a complete success. After eating in the dark, we all got into the shelter and started getting ready for bed. Packs and clothes and food bags were hanging everywhere. I had a pretty cozy setup against the wall. Was really tired. Listened as the sounds of other hikers’ breathing deepened.

Eventually fell asleep but awoke around 12:45 to the sound of chomping teeth -- a mouse was on a wall ledge somewhere near my pack. He was eating something, yet I didn’t have any food in my pack. Was he shredding my precious TP to make a nest? Suddenly something fell onto my fleece jacket/pillow. What the hell was that? I didn’t have the nerve to feel around to find it.

Bad rest of the night, and of course exhausted at 7. We had a 15-mile day planned -- our biggest yet. First seven miles were OK -- a few steep parts. Then after crossing the road, the book said we’d come to a really steep climb. That’s an understatement!

Hard work on the feet, legs, and lungs. Miles were slow going. The bottoms of my feet were starting to hurt, and the tops of my toes were sore from hitting the front of my boots. Finally made it to the shelter around 4:30. Oh, Murph said my trail name should be Pack-On because I never take my pack off during breaks. Or Charlie suggested Kinetic -- will have to look up the definition of that one to make sure it fits.

Gave Dave a haircut tonight with his multi-tool. Took about an hour to thin out that nest. Then the scissors broke, and I had to clean up with a razor. It just started raining, so we threw all the gear inside the tent. I hate being so disorganized. To Fontana tomorrow.
P.S. -- Boy, did it pour last night. It was like being inside a washing machine, as Breaking Wind (wind surfer from Hawaii) said. Not a bad night’s sleep, though it was quite clammy inside the tent. And I found that I couldn’t sleep on my stomach because it hurt to put that much pressure on my toes. Oh, met a bunch of hikers last night who we hadn’t seen before -- Tortoise and Hare, Ken from Kansas, Honey and Moon, Hipbone and Mountain Goat, Mighty Mouse.

Day 14 - Wesser Shelter to Sassafrass Gap

The tent was at an angle last night, which isn’t very conducive to sleep. Tough getting up at 6:50, but we were on the trail by 7:45 -- which is early for us.

It was supposed to be five miles straight downhill, but of course it never is. There were actually quite a few ups, and the downs weren’t that severe. Went to the Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC), where they have whitewater rafting, an outfitter, and restaurants. First on the agenda was a shower.

 
Then we checked out the store. Lots of hikers -- some who had been behind us and others whom we hadn’t met before. It was hot -- supposedly record-breaking heat. Good day to relax in the afternoon. Charlie, Murph, Dave and I went for lunch. At the store, we each bought a lighter pair of socks; and I got a water bag with a hose so I can take a sip whenever I want. Will definitely come in handy in the summer. Savored a Ben and Jerry’s sorbet before the dreaded four o’clock hour hit.

It was still blazing hot, and we had at least seven hard uphill miles to do. An obnoxious man from Seattle told us even he wouldn’t attempt it in the afternoon, and he’s an “experienced hiker.” 

I was a little worried that we wouldn’t make it by nightfall. But we actually made great time considering the toughness of the climb -- 3 ½ hours. The four of us (plus Matt and Phil) played a trivia game part of the way, which made the hike go by faster.

 
Got to the shelter at 8, and there was no one here. Couldn’t find any level ground, and it was late, so I said I’d sleep in the shelter if I could have one of the ends. We’ll see how it goes…

P.S. -- On the way into NOC, it was almost as if we could see spring coming to life before our eyes. Buds on trees were becoming beautiful leaves, small white flowers were starting to open up, new fresh smells were wafting through the air. I think it’s because we were descending to a lower elevation that we saw so much color and life. It hasn’t made its way up to the tops of the mountains yet. Also saw two snakes yesterday -- a tan one with black markings and a baby.

Day 13 - Wine Spring Campground to Wesser Shelter

Good night’s sleep last night, though the zero degree bag is becoming too heavy. Decided to do 13.6 miles. The first 7.6 were pretty easy. Then at the shelter, after lunch, Dave and Murph wanted to hang out for a while, so I pushed on.

It was a pretty tough uphill climb in the hot North Carolina sun. Was rewarded with a beautiful 360 degree view from the top of a fire tower. 

And just before the shelter, I found the path to the water. I was really hoping for more of a stream than a puddle or a trickle. And I was psyched to find ice cold water gushing from a pipe in the side of the mountain. 

I grabbed a Nalgene and started pouring the precious liquid on top of my overheated head. It felt so good, but inevitably led to brain freeze. Gave the hair a quick washing. Heaven.

It’s dry tonight, so the tent will air out. Possible thundershowers, though. Five miles down to Wesser in the morning.

Day 12 - Wallace Gap to Wine Spring Campground

Hot day -- supposed to get up to 85, so the going was slow at first. Didn’t get to the first campground til 5. I was ready, willing, and able to do the two miles to another spot, but no one else was interested. Just chillin’ out here. Still no trail name for me. Dave is Longshanks, after the character in The Lord of the Rings and his long limbs (Did I say that already?)

  P.S. -- Saw a number of rabbits driving to and from the Winters’ house. That’s the most wildlife we’ve seen so far.

Anecdote -- We met this man Nighthawk and his black dog Shadow at the shelter after Kelly Knob. He’s in his 40’s, salt and pepper hair, goatee, a little rough around the edges, smokin’ weed. Wasn’t shy about telling everyone he ran out of dog food, and Shadow was “starving.” Anyway, someone told us later that Nighthawk is a vet. Dave seemed to find this very surprising. I didn’t -- he looked around the right age, right demeanor. It turns out Dave thought he was a veterinarian. Ha ha.

Day 11 - Carter Gap Shelter to Wallace Gap

Tim and Donna deliver trail magic

We left Carter Gap around 8:15 and said goodbye to the Tates. [P.S. – I never even wrote about how Tim and Donna became our first trail angels. When we were at Carter Gap, all of a sudden they came walking up the path to the shelter – carrying their packs as well as packages of hot dogs, chili, onions, and potato chips. Luckily, we hadn’t eaten yet (though I’m sure we would have again). It had taken them a while to track us down, including stops at the Blueberry Patch and other shelters, where they showed our pictures to people to help find us. Quite a lot of effort they put into their investigation!]

We had an easy walk for a few miles before coming to Albert Mountain. This was well-documented in the handbook as a “near vertical scramble over rocks,” so I was a bit nervous. It was hard, but not impossible – though it left hikers sweating and out of breath at the top. Good place to relax for a while.

Dave and I climbed the fire tower for a decent (though a little hazy) view. When I look at the mountains all around us, I have no idea where we’ve come from or where we’re going. I’m content just following the white blazes. 


Headed down off the mountain, and lo and behold there were Tim and Donna. They had driven to near the top of the mountain to see us. Tim was carrying a cooler of ice cold water. We hung out for a while, and they said they’d meet us at Rainbow Springs. So we started walking again.

After a few miles, I was in the lead. Charlie had already gone ahead to the campground to make a few phone calls to England. A woman and man were coming the other way, and we exchanged hellos. Then she said, “Are you Kerri?” I said yes right away, not processing how random and bizarre the whole situation was. She said she was Kathy, and with her was her husband Oak! They had taken a day hike, hoping they’d bump into us based on the info I’d left on their answering machine.

We all sat on a log and waited for Murph and Dave. They gave me an orange, as they’d been offering to all the other hikers they’d seen. It was really good to see them and to know the effort they put into finding me (us). Kathy said they planned to take Dave and me home for the night. We went to the car, where they had a cooler full of soda and candy bars!

They also invited Murph and Charlie. We all piled in the Ford Explorer and away we went. A deer ran across the road just in front of us – ironically, our first major wildlife sighting. Finally got to their house on the side of a mountain. 

What a house! Beautiful location, beautifully decorated. Dave and I had a room on the first floor with a real bed. Dinner was served out on the back deck – London broil, salad, bean salad, mashed potatoes, rolls. Then Kathy took us to SuperWalmart to resupply.

Kerri, Oak, Kathy, Charlie, and Dave

She was so good about knowing what we would need and when -- since she’s been through all this before. She even showed us one of her AT photo albums. Bought a half-gallon of Brown Cow ice cream for the four of us to share. Had trouble falling asleep, but when I did, it was a good night. Anyway, we decided to go out to breakfast so we could try grits. Kathy took us to the Cullowhee Café, the local greasy spoon, for hot cakes, eggs and grits (sort of like bland oatmeal). Then it was back to Wallace Gap.

Day 10 - Muscrat Creek Shelter to Carter Gap Shelter

Good night. Went down to see Pacman because we heard he had written a song about the trail. It’s sung to the tune of Simon and Garfunkel’s “Feelin’ Groovy.” Pretty funny – Murph and I sang the chorus.

Had pasta and sardines in Louisiana hot sauce for dinner. Not bad. Slept well until 1:45. Could have sworn that I heard a bear wandering from tent to tent. Must have been my overactive, overtired mind playing tricks on me.

Awoke to damp, dark, overcast skies. It didn’t look too promising, but it was warm. Pretty easy day terrain-wise. 

Climbed Standing Indian Mountain and actually had a view from the top! 

Pretty easy walk to the shelter. Could have done more, but Murph and Dave wanted to stop. Enjoying the warm weather – no fleece or hat tonight. Chatting with Goose, older man originally from Worcester who’s run the marathon six or seven times.

The Old Gray Goose

Keep bumping into Ian, a Scottish paratrooper making a documentary for the BBC. Will try to make it to Rainbow Springs Campground tomorrow.

Day 9 - Dicks Creek Gap to Muscrat Creek Shelter

Well, the night started out promising, but I could have predicted the result. After spending an enjoyable evening at the Blueberry Patch, it was eventually time for bed.

I had chosen a top bunk, thinking I’d be sort of away from it all. But I forgot to check the ceiling height – only about a foot of breathing room. It was more claustrophobic than I had expected. We all (seven of us) went to bed at 10, and then the light went out. I was not tired enough to sleep, but I tried – and I tried. Within a few minutes, breathing all around became regulated. Dave was awake with me for a while, but not long enough.

Then I was in it alone. Heart racing, the whole nine yards. When I had to go to the bathroom the first time, I couldn’t figure out how to get out of my bunk. It was a scary moment. Stopped looking at my watch at 2:30 – just didn’t want to know anymore. Not happy when the clock turned to 7.

Got everything packed up and geared up for breakfast. It was quite a spread. We all went into Gary and Lennie’s house (addition) to a beautifully set table. He had us all join hands so he could say grace – a lengthy prayer. There was an envelope next to every plate for donations to their ministry – they no longer charge to stay at the hostel. Dave and I each put $20 in the envelope. It was well worth the money.

Breakfast was a feast – the most beautiful fluffy round pancakes I’ve ever seen – plus biscuits, coffee, juice, and of course the homemade blueberry sauce. Yummy. Gary had us back at the trail by 9:30.
 

Tim, Charlie, Dave, Kerri, Achilles, Julia, Virginia, Murph, Adrian

 
It was a warmish day, but overcast. I just sweat profusely. After four or so hours of hiking, we made it to the North Carolina border. It was exciting to cross our first state line. Charlie said he remembered N.C. as being much flatter than Georgia (he already thru-hiked the trail before). Wrong! The state begins with two extreme ups. But I didn’t think it was that bad.

We made it to the Muscrat Creek Shelter. There are tons of people camping in and around here – though only two are in the shelter itself.

Day 8 - Deep Gap to Dicks Gap/Blueberry Patch Hostel

Today was a good day – our first day and night off (after hiking three miles down to the road). Gary from the Blueberry Patch picked us up and brought us to his hostel. There are bunks for seven. He did our laundry for us, even folded it! First clean clothes.

Took a hot shower and then put on the sweet-smelling clothing. What a novelty. We hitched into town (got a ride from a really nice woman on her way to the dump). Went to Ingles supermarket to resupply, then stopped at a thrift shop and picked up a short-sleeved poly print shirt ($3.81).

Dave, Pacman, Charlie, and Murph

Oh, at the hostel are hiker boxes – good stuff! Lots of food, some toiletries, clothes, etc. Fun to pick through and throw stuff into! 

We decided to go to Daniels Restaurant for a $5.50 AYCE buffet. Salad bar, mashed potatoes, gravy, fried chicken, cheesecake. Good food, but I ate too much. Tried to hitch back to the hostel. The first guy wanted to charge us $5. We said no thanks. Then a kid in a Corvette (I think) stopped and we piled in.

A man named Adrian from Switzerland had arrived at the hostel; then Julie and Virginia came in. They know a lot about hiker food and are entertaining. It’s weird being in a room with electricity and a refrigerator. There’s a wood stove here, too, so it’s quite toasty.

Day 7 - Blue Mountain Shelter to Deep Gap

Lots of catching up to do. We have been hiking what's known as the “Pennsylvania section of Georgia.” Very rocky. Each step had to be taken with care. Also, at the Blue Mountain Shelter, when one man was asked if he was a thru-hiker, he replied, “Well, I’m through hiking for the day.” Thought it was a good line.

As for the trail itself, usually it’s only wide enough for one person to pass comfortably. It’s been rocky and very muddy/slippery in parts, with roots making the walk dangerous at times. Also, I don’t think this would be a good experience for someone who’s afraid of heights. There have been lots of places where one wrong step would have had disastrous consequences. 

As for the wildlife, we’ve seen a couple of hawks, heard a wild turkey, a woodpecker and an owl…that’s about it. No squirrels in sight. I wonder why. I guess the other night a couple of people staying at the Low Gap Shelter had a close encounter with a bear. It keep poking its nose underneath Dan’s tent door, even though he had no food or toothpaste inside. I guess it stayed around for 5 or 10 minutes before wandering off. Glad I wasn’t there that night!

At the Blue Mountain Shelter, everyone was hanging out inside their sleeping bags in the shelter. Kind of like a big slumber party. Also, the rain dripping from the trees sounded like popcorn popping during the night.

Do you know how hard it is to put on wet (not damp) extremely smelly clothes from head to toe? It’s pretty damn hard. The only way to warm up is to start walking. I’ve been a bit stiff in the morning, but no real blisters or complaints. Not sure if I’ve lost any weight. Probably a little, but I have been eating high-fat foods (Lipton noodles, peanut butter, Snickers bars).

Today was by far my hardest day on the trail physically (and mentally). It was humid, which is not my ideal weather. The day started with a big up (Rocky Mountain), then another big up (Tray Mountain). Just when I thought it couldn’t get any worse, we got to Kelly Knob. Wow. It went up forever. The sun had just started beating down, and I still had my rainpants and a black silk top on. Let’s just say I felt close to hyperventilating. 

But then it was downhill to the shelter. We had quite a crowd there – Charlie, Murph, Matt and Nate, Dan, and others. Steve (Pacman), who we met earlier in the day, came, too. From Pennsylvania, he got his name because when he started the trail his pack weighed 91 pounds. We hung out at night, went to bed around 9:30. I fell asleep OK but woke up and had trouble getting back to sleep. Can’t seem to get my temperature quite right. It’s been too hot in my zero degree down bag.

P.S. - There was a man named the Bavarian Marmot who told us that all he eats is a handful of nuts and piece of fruit a day – even when he’s hiking. Anything else is poison to the body, he said. Also, he hibernates for two to three weeks during the winter, doing nothing but sleeping, drinking water, and getting up to pee. Huh.

Day 6 - Baggs Creek Gap to Blue Mountain Shelter

Last night was really nice. We got to our camping spot early and still had quite a few hours of daylight. There were even gnats flying about. Ate dinner and hung out by a good fire. Had trouble sleeping… awoke in the early morning to rain, then thunder. Soon there was lightning as well. We headed off around 8. 

Did a quick seven miles to the first shelter. Then rain was pouring down, and we were quickly soaked. A couple of steep ascents. I’m trying not to listen whenever someone says what to expect with the terrain ahead. “It’s all downhill” or “it’s just a mile away” inevitably turn out to be lies.

Anyway, the second half of the walk seemed much longer. But made it to the shelter by 3. So happy to change into dry clothes! Hung out with Charlie and Murph; then Ryan and Chris came. Charlie is very funny. Everyone was wet and soggy but in good spirits. Dave and I are tenting right near the shelter. Hopefully it will clear up by tomorrow. 

We’re going to try another 14 miles – supposedly tougher than today. There I go again...

Day 5 - Wood's Hole Shelter to Baggs Creek Gap

Made it to Neels Gap today and had my first hot shower. It was better than good!
 

Oh, back to last night. Hung out at the shelter with Charlie, Murph (found out she’s a pediatrician!), Izzy, Dick, Dennis, and Ed (college student from Penn.). Also, two high school kids on Spring Break were there (Mayonnaise and Tobasco Ass). They have lots of funny stories and aren’t shy at all. 

Mayonnaise and Tobasco Ass

Wanted to start a fire, but as soon as we did two hikers came over and told us fires aren’t allowed. It was cold! The wind just whipped over that mountain top. As soon as the sun set, everyone jumped into their sleeping bags.

It was early – I didn’t even want to look at the time, given the Daylight Savings factor. But we got into bed and tried to sleep. Amazingly, I haven’t been having bad nights. I never look at my watch during the night. I don’t have a job to get up for, so it’s not as stressful as it could be. And we’re in the tent for a long time – at least 8:30 p.m. to 7 a.m., so I must be doing OK sleepwise.

It is tough to get out of a warm sleeping bag, though. Wore two pairs of socks, face mask, hat, and long johns to bed. The wind was howling all night. Awoke to bits of snow/frost on the ground. Had to walk to the top of Blood Mountain to make it to Neels Gap. Not a bad hike. Views from the top were amazing. 

Shelter at the top of Blood Mountain

Then it was down to Neels Gap, the only building the trail actually runs through. Immediately signed up for a shower. It felt so good. Heavenly! Hung out, called home. We resupplied at the store for the next three days; I had a fish sandwich and was good to go. Another hiker received a huge care package and was offering brownies and chocolate-covered pretzels to everyone.

Murph, Gail, Charlie, Kerri, Dave, and Orion

After about a three-hour break, we were ready to move on. Did four miles to a campsite near the top of a mountain. Much warmer than last night. The high school kids are here, Murph, Charlie, Izzy, Ryan, and Orion. Gail kept going to meet up with Matt, Dreamwalker, and Dennis. Oh yeah, Charlie bought a 12-pack of Coke and brought it up to the Wood’s Hole Shelter yesterday. Yum. But too cold out to enjoy it to its full potential.

Day 4 - Gooch Gap Shelter to Wood's Hole Shelter

It wasn’t a great night, not quite sure why. A little cold. Very windy. Heard a few coyotes during the night.

It was daylight savings night, so we lost an hour. Getting up at 7:15 felt like 6:15. Tim told us it was supposed to rain all day, and it started out looking that way. It actually began to hail, then we had a few flakes of snow.

Cold day – and very windy. But going uphill makes you want to take off your heavy layers. It was a long walk, but we made good time. Got here first, along with Dennis.

Will be a cold night tonight, as there’s no protection from the wind. Already have both pairs of long underwear on, hat, jacket, and gloves. Plan to make it to Neels Gap tomorrow for my first shower (in five long, sweaty days!) I really can’t imagine what the summer is going to be like. I almost need the cold, I think, to keep me from overheating.

Hopefully my pack will be lighter in the summer. There are things I’d like to have with me (another camera, better pillow, small light), but not if I have to carry them up and down mountains. I’m thankful that Dave helped me pare down my load before we left (although I did complain at the time). I’m wondering if there’s anything I can send back home tomorrow.