Day 9 - Dicks Creek Gap to Muscrat Creek Shelter

Well, the night started out promising, but I could have predicted the result. After spending an enjoyable evening at the Blueberry Patch, it was eventually time for bed.

I had chosen a top bunk, thinking I’d be sort of away from it all. But I forgot to check the ceiling height – only about a foot of breathing room. It was more claustrophobic than I had expected. We all (seven of us) went to bed at 10, and then the light went out. I was not tired enough to sleep, but I tried – and I tried. Within a few minutes, breathing all around became regulated. Dave was awake with me for a while, but not long enough.

Then I was in it alone. Heart racing, the whole nine yards. When I had to go to the bathroom the first time, I couldn’t figure out how to get out of my bunk. It was a scary moment. Stopped looking at my watch at 2:30 – just didn’t want to know anymore. Not happy when the clock turned to 7.

Got everything packed up and geared up for breakfast. It was quite a spread. We all went into Gary and Lennie’s house (addition) to a beautifully set table. He had us all join hands so he could say grace – a lengthy prayer. There was an envelope next to every plate for donations to their ministry – they no longer charge to stay at the hostel. Dave and I each put $20 in the envelope. It was well worth the money.

Breakfast was a feast – the most beautiful fluffy round pancakes I’ve ever seen – plus biscuits, coffee, juice, and of course the homemade blueberry sauce. Yummy. Gary had us back at the trail by 9:30.
 

Tim, Charlie, Dave, Kerri, Achilles, Julia, Virginia, Murph, Adrian

 
It was a warmish day, but overcast. I just sweat profusely. After four or so hours of hiking, we made it to the North Carolina border. It was exciting to cross our first state line. Charlie said he remembered N.C. as being much flatter than Georgia (he already thru-hiked the trail before). Wrong! The state begins with two extreme ups. But I didn’t think it was that bad.

We made it to the Muscrat Creek Shelter. There are tons of people camping in and around here – though only two are in the shelter itself.

Day 8 - Deep Gap to Dicks Gap/Blueberry Patch Hostel

Today was a good day – our first day and night off (after hiking three miles down to the road). Gary from the Blueberry Patch picked us up and brought us to his hostel. There are bunks for seven. He did our laundry for us, even folded it! First clean clothes.

Took a hot shower and then put on the sweet-smelling clothing. What a novelty. We hitched into town (got a ride from a really nice woman on her way to the dump). Went to Ingles supermarket to resupply, then stopped at a thrift shop and picked up a short-sleeved poly print shirt ($3.81).

Dave, Pacman, Charlie, and Murph

Oh, at the hostel are hiker boxes – good stuff! Lots of food, some toiletries, clothes, etc. Fun to pick through and throw stuff into! 

We decided to go to Daniels Restaurant for a $5.50 AYCE buffet. Salad bar, mashed potatoes, gravy, fried chicken, cheesecake. Good food, but I ate too much. Tried to hitch back to the hostel. The first guy wanted to charge us $5. We said no thanks. Then a kid in a Corvette (I think) stopped and we piled in.

A man named Adrian from Switzerland had arrived at the hostel; then Julie and Virginia came in. They know a lot about hiker food and are entertaining. It’s weird being in a room with electricity and a refrigerator. There’s a wood stove here, too, so it’s quite toasty.

Day 7 - Blue Mountain Shelter to Deep Gap

Lots of catching up to do. We have been hiking what's known as the “Pennsylvania section of Georgia.” Very rocky. Each step had to be taken with care. Also, at the Blue Mountain Shelter, when one man was asked if he was a thru-hiker, he replied, “Well, I’m through hiking for the day.” Thought it was a good line.

As for the trail itself, usually it’s only wide enough for one person to pass comfortably. It’s been rocky and very muddy/slippery in parts, with roots making the walk dangerous at times. Also, I don’t think this would be a good experience for someone who’s afraid of heights. There have been lots of places where one wrong step would have had disastrous consequences. 

As for the wildlife, we’ve seen a couple of hawks, heard a wild turkey, a woodpecker and an owl…that’s about it. No squirrels in sight. I wonder why. I guess the other night a couple of people staying at the Low Gap Shelter had a close encounter with a bear. It keep poking its nose underneath Dan’s tent door, even though he had no food or toothpaste inside. I guess it stayed around for 5 or 10 minutes before wandering off. Glad I wasn’t there that night!

At the Blue Mountain Shelter, everyone was hanging out inside their sleeping bags in the shelter. Kind of like a big slumber party. Also, the rain dripping from the trees sounded like popcorn popping during the night.

Do you know how hard it is to put on wet (not damp) extremely smelly clothes from head to toe? It’s pretty damn hard. The only way to warm up is to start walking. I’ve been a bit stiff in the morning, but no real blisters or complaints. Not sure if I’ve lost any weight. Probably a little, but I have been eating high-fat foods (Lipton noodles, peanut butter, Snickers bars).

Today was by far my hardest day on the trail physically (and mentally). It was humid, which is not my ideal weather. The day started with a big up (Rocky Mountain), then another big up (Tray Mountain). Just when I thought it couldn’t get any worse, we got to Kelly Knob. Wow. It went up forever. The sun had just started beating down, and I still had my rainpants and a black silk top on. Let’s just say I felt close to hyperventilating. 

But then it was downhill to the shelter. We had quite a crowd there – Charlie, Murph, Matt and Nate, Dan, and others. Steve (Pacman), who we met earlier in the day, came, too. From Pennsylvania, he got his name because when he started the trail his pack weighed 91 pounds. We hung out at night, went to bed around 9:30. I fell asleep OK but woke up and had trouble getting back to sleep. Can’t seem to get my temperature quite right. It’s been too hot in my zero degree down bag.

P.S. - There was a man named the Bavarian Marmot who told us that all he eats is a handful of nuts and piece of fruit a day – even when he’s hiking. Anything else is poison to the body, he said. Also, he hibernates for two to three weeks during the winter, doing nothing but sleeping, drinking water, and getting up to pee. Huh.

Day 6 - Baggs Creek Gap to Blue Mountain Shelter

Last night was really nice. We got to our camping spot early and still had quite a few hours of daylight. There were even gnats flying about. Ate dinner and hung out by a good fire. Had trouble sleeping… awoke in the early morning to rain, then thunder. Soon there was lightning as well. We headed off around 8. 

Did a quick seven miles to the first shelter. Then rain was pouring down, and we were quickly soaked. A couple of steep ascents. I’m trying not to listen whenever someone says what to expect with the terrain ahead. “It’s all downhill” or “it’s just a mile away” inevitably turn out to be lies.

Anyway, the second half of the walk seemed much longer. But made it to the shelter by 3. So happy to change into dry clothes! Hung out with Charlie and Murph; then Ryan and Chris came. Charlie is very funny. Everyone was wet and soggy but in good spirits. Dave and I are tenting right near the shelter. Hopefully it will clear up by tomorrow. 

We’re going to try another 14 miles – supposedly tougher than today. There I go again...

Day 5 - Wood's Hole Shelter to Baggs Creek Gap

Made it to Neels Gap today and had my first hot shower. It was better than good!
 

Oh, back to last night. Hung out at the shelter with Charlie, Murph (found out she’s a pediatrician!), Izzy, Dick, Dennis, and Ed (college student from Penn.). Also, two high school kids on Spring Break were there (Mayonnaise and Tobasco Ass). They have lots of funny stories and aren’t shy at all. 

Mayonnaise and Tobasco Ass

Wanted to start a fire, but as soon as we did two hikers came over and told us fires aren’t allowed. It was cold! The wind just whipped over that mountain top. As soon as the sun set, everyone jumped into their sleeping bags.

It was early – I didn’t even want to look at the time, given the Daylight Savings factor. But we got into bed and tried to sleep. Amazingly, I haven’t been having bad nights. I never look at my watch during the night. I don’t have a job to get up for, so it’s not as stressful as it could be. And we’re in the tent for a long time – at least 8:30 p.m. to 7 a.m., so I must be doing OK sleepwise.

It is tough to get out of a warm sleeping bag, though. Wore two pairs of socks, face mask, hat, and long johns to bed. The wind was howling all night. Awoke to bits of snow/frost on the ground. Had to walk to the top of Blood Mountain to make it to Neels Gap. Not a bad hike. Views from the top were amazing. 

Shelter at the top of Blood Mountain

Then it was down to Neels Gap, the only building the trail actually runs through. Immediately signed up for a shower. It felt so good. Heavenly! Hung out, called home. We resupplied at the store for the next three days; I had a fish sandwich and was good to go. Another hiker received a huge care package and was offering brownies and chocolate-covered pretzels to everyone.

Murph, Gail, Charlie, Kerri, Dave, and Orion

After about a three-hour break, we were ready to move on. Did four miles to a campsite near the top of a mountain. Much warmer than last night. The high school kids are here, Murph, Charlie, Izzy, Ryan, and Orion. Gail kept going to meet up with Matt, Dreamwalker, and Dennis. Oh yeah, Charlie bought a 12-pack of Coke and brought it up to the Wood’s Hole Shelter yesterday. Yum. But too cold out to enjoy it to its full potential.

Day 4 - Gooch Gap Shelter to Wood's Hole Shelter

It wasn’t a great night, not quite sure why. A little cold. Very windy. Heard a few coyotes during the night.

It was daylight savings night, so we lost an hour. Getting up at 7:15 felt like 6:15. Tim told us it was supposed to rain all day, and it started out looking that way. It actually began to hail, then we had a few flakes of snow.

Cold day – and very windy. But going uphill makes you want to take off your heavy layers. It was a long walk, but we made good time. Got here first, along with Dennis.

Will be a cold night tonight, as there’s no protection from the wind. Already have both pairs of long underwear on, hat, jacket, and gloves. Plan to make it to Neels Gap tomorrow for my first shower (in five long, sweaty days!) I really can’t imagine what the summer is going to be like. I almost need the cold, I think, to keep me from overheating.

Hopefully my pack will be lighter in the summer. There are things I’d like to have with me (another camera, better pillow, small light), but not if I have to carry them up and down mountains. I’m thankful that Dave helped me pare down my load before we left (although I did complain at the time). I’m wondering if there’s anything I can send back home tomorrow.

Day 3 - Hawk Mountain Shelter to Gooch Gap Shelter

It was a long day, but a good day. Although when Dave woke me up at 6:50 a.m., I have to admit my first thought was, “Oh, no, we have to go hiking again.”

I collected my wet clothes for the second day in a row, managed to get dressed in the tent, and got ready to head out. It was cold at the start – definitely jacket weather. But after the first ascent, I felt like I was suffocating. It’s amazing to me how much longer miles seem out here than in the “other world.”

We did a little over eight miles today, and I could have sworn after four that we were done. It was a lot of ups and a lot of downs. But all of it was doable. Dave has been very good about keeping pace with me. We’re faster than many others in our group, but not all. Saw some nice views, some flowers starting to bloom, a salamander.

Finally made it to the shelter, only to find it was nearly full with no tent sites – shelter was on the side of the mountain. So we walked on a bit and found a great campground with a nice grassy area and two fire pits. Most of the gang ended up down here. Hung out by the fire tonight. The plan for tomorrow is 10 miles – and it’s supposed to rain again. How badly will I need that shower Monday in Neels Gap??

Izzy and Nate

Dave, Matt, and Nate

Tim, Orion, and Dave

P.S. – We had a good night at our camping area. Everyone is getting to know one another and having fun hanging out. We seem to be a group now but don’t know how long that will last – as people have different hiking paces. The group now is Gail “Chinook” from Alberta, Canada; Charlie, from Bristol, England; Dennis, from Ohio, using the Golite system; Izzy from New Hampshire; Murph, from Vermont (originally from Hingham); Matt (young guy) and Nate (older guy) “Dream Walker” from Michigan; Ryan and Chris “Orion” from Florida, two guys just out of college; and Dick from Maine, whose brother had to leave the trail today because he wasn’t feeling well. We lost Tim and Donna, who were only out for a few days, but were a big part of this group. Tim may be back to do the rest of the trail someday. I hope he keeps in touch if he does.

Day 2 - Springer Mountain Shelter to Hawk Mountain Shelter

Well, we cooked two Lipton meals and boy did they make a good dinner last night. It was so nice to take off my soaking wet clothes and put on my long underwear, fleece, dry socks, and hat.

At 7 p.m., three boys came running up to the shelter and asked if there was any room. We said yes and started moving everything to the loft. Right around that time, the sun seemed to be poking through the clouds. So we walked back up to the top of Springer. These huge, amazing clouds were moving in different directions – one was headed straight for us and moving fast. Within moments it had enveloped us, and the light was gone. 

Back at the shelter, it turned out that no one came to join us. But we slept in the loft anyway. I read for a few minutes before turning out the light. Wore my hat but not the balaclava. Was pretty comfortable all night.

Woke up at 8 to a beautiful day – no coat, although someone said rain was predicted. Went back to the top of Springer again. Now I understand why the plaque is there. There is actually a beautiful view – it just has to be clear to see it.

View from the top of Springer Mountain

Continued on to Stover Creek Shelter, took a break, then proceeded to the next one for a total of 7.6 miles. It took longer than expected but wasn’t a particularly difficult hike. The trail seems to wind around mountains rather than going up and over. I’ll take it while it lasts.

Stopped for lunch (peanut butter and cheese on pocket bread) near a waterfall. When we made it to the shelter, it was well-populated with hikers – some who had started from the top of Springer. There’s also a private school group and a boy scout troop around. Everybody sort of does their own thing setting up their tent and cooking food. It was only 3, but we were done for the day and so were a lot of others.

Purified more water, ate some Ramen, and hung out. There are a number of us who seem to be hiking at the same pace – Charlie and Gail, two guys whose names I don’t know, Izzy. They all seem nice, but no one matches our demographic. I know there are lots more hikers to meet. It’s raining again but at least the tent was already set up before it started. Time for bed.

Day 1 - Amicalola Falls to Springer Mountain

It wasn’t a good night, but at least I didn’t suffer alone. Dave couldn’t fall asleep either. 

That’s funny – we had split the bottle of wine and were exhausted from the past few nights. I had on my long underwear and put on the balaclava to keep my face warm. Was comfortable and warm enough in my sleeping bag, but just couldn’t fall asleep. Never looked at my watch, though. I just didn’t want to know the time. 
  
Oh, it rained all night. I’m sure that didn’t help things. Got up at 7:30. Boy, is it a challenge for two people to get dressed and pack up their gear without being able to stand up (or sit up, even). Lost my only spare contact lens. We headed to the lodge to pay for our site and eat some grits, as we promised Bob, but the kitchen was already closed. So we decided to start the approach trail, despite the rain. 

 

 
I remember now that Leslie told me how the trail in Georgia is like a path – not at all like the rocky ledges of Blue Hills. And it is a pretty clean path. Only a few parts were tough – and not for long. I know I was sweating profusely, but it was hard to tell with the rain pelting my face and soaking my hair. For most of the approach trail, Dave and I were alone. We bumped into a couple of people here and there, that’s all.

We stopped at the first shelter just to check it out. There were three people there with their gear all spread out. They were engrossed in books and didn’t seem too friendly. Since it was only 2:30 and I wasn’t tired, I suggested we move on to the shelter at the top of Springer Mountain. Dave thought it would be too crowded, but I wasn’t sure. 

We reached the summit and saw the AT plaque set in stone. Was that really the top? The official start of the AT? It didn’t seem right. With all the trees and fog, there was no view at all.

We continued to the shelter. There were two people packing up their gear – and that’s it. We had the whole place to ourselves (for how long, I don’t know). 
 

Someone told us that it was 10 degrees on the top of Springer Mountain last night. Hoping for warmer temps tonight. We have hung our food from the ceiling so the mice can’t get it. Plan to sleep in the loft, especially if others arrive. My feet are cold and a little stiff, but no other physical complaints. It’s been a long second day, but a good one despite the wet, soggy weather. My clothes are soaked, my pack is wet, my boots are caked in mud. Can I last 178 more days? Will the heat be worse than the cold? Will I be able to sleep tonight? Only time will tell… 

Side note – I find it amazing that I can really survive with 30 pounds worth of gear (of course, I also need some of Dave’s 40 pounds, which includes the tent, stove, and water filter). But we have everything we need – a house, a bed, a kitchen cabinet, a sink, a toilet, clothing, shoes, reading material, camera, etc. It really makes you think about the way you have been living and the things you think you “need.” I know I have at least five garbage bags full of clothes at home and look forward to giving a lot of them away! One more hour of daylight…

Day 0 - Amicalola Falls State Park

After a very stressful night and a restless sleep, morning came – the day had arrived. Not our wedding day, but it almost felt like it. Two hours to get everything together and make sure all the bases were covered for the next six months.

I did some vacuuming, put the rest of our personal belongings in the basement, and took my last (not even hot) shower for some time. Diane drove us to Logan Express in Braintree and we were on our way. Now we know why Airtran is so cheap – very no frills. But the flight was fine. I even dozed off a few times.

We were supposed to meet Bob Lore at the baggage claim area – didn’t see him at first. But then he came over and introduced himself. He’s in his 50’s, I’d say, and has been section hiking the trail for the past nine years. Dave found Bob’s name on the Trailplace web site. He said he would charge us $30 for gas and wear and tear on his vehicle. But I’m sure he lost money with the tolls he paid and fuel he gave us – not to mention the Sam Adams, bottle of while zinfandel, and doughnuts he bought us.

We rode in comfort in his grey van and held on tight when he needed to brake suddenly. But we made it here in one piece. Bob offered to take us to REI if we needed anything. And he stopped at a big shopping plaza where we could pick the venue of choice for our “last supper.”

Dave chose the closest pizza/sub shop. Only four kinds of subs on the menu – all meat! Had to get a veggie pizza. On the ride to the campground, Bob told us that we’d be coming upon a view of the Appalachians. He looked back to see my reaction. Wow! From that location, they looked mighty impressive/intimidating. But I’m really getting excited.

All Bob could talk about was how nice people are and how they really make the trail. Well, he is a genuine trail angel. The Amicalola Falls State Park campground is huge and nicely set up. Other than one other tenter whom we haven’t seen, we have the place to ourselves. There’s a clean bathroom with a shower. And the start of the approach trail is just around the corner. 

 It is cold (hat and gloves weather) and starting to sprinkle. The ground is hard, but my sleeping bag should be warm. And, of course, there are my two pillows.

P.S. – Without water, my pack is around 28 pounds; Dave’s 37. Not too shabby.
P.P.S. – Bob called us a “neat couple.” He also asked if we were in college.