Day 38 - Mt. Airy to Damascus

Woke up to the smell of bacon cooking. Skip also cooked sausage, biscuits, and scrambled eggs. Fresh fruit and juice, too.

Then we all got into two cars. Skip first took us to his manmade pond, where he fed his catfish. Then we took a tour of his Modular Wood factory. After that, we went to see their cabin. It was really nice, and will be much nicer when renovated.

Longshanks, Pack-On, Murph, Charlie, Skip, and Kathy

Back to the house for lunch (leftovers), then we headed out for Damascus. Dave and I still had to do laundry. Luckily the outfitter was open, so he got a Platypus and I got an eyedropper for my bleach (instead of using a water filter).

Headed to the local eatery for dinner. Nothing but hikers here. Kid Rock was his usual self. I got a humungous trail burger – only ate half. In a six-bunk room tonight. Pretty tired. Should I change my name to Shortshanks?

Day 28 - Hogback Ridge to Spivey Gap

Tough sleeping on slanted ground last night. Today, the terrain was more difficult than I had been expecting. I really drag on the ups. Is it my diet? Trying too hard to catch up to others? I think I shouldn’t look up as much. Too discouraging.

Made it to Big Bald for lunch. Another beautiful spot to chill out for a while. I fell asleep again (not sure for how long). Did maybe eight more miles to get to a camping area -- arrived at 6.

 
Dave and I are very close to running out of food, which isn’t a good feeling. We each have a pop tart, Carnation instant breakfast, and handful of cereal to get us the 11-plus miles into Erwin. Have decided to try buying separate breakfasts and lunches.

 
P.S. -- Parts of the walk yesterday afternoon were quite beautiful. It was like an enchanted forest, with greenery and white spring beauties covering nearly every inch of the ground. Quite magical. (Lots of twisted, gnarled roots, too).

Also, haven’t really had a chance to write about how I’ve changed over the course of the past month. Who would have thought that I’d be able to sleep in a shelter with as many as 18 other people (as well as a handful of mice)…that I’d wear my watch to bed…that I’d eat just about anything put in front of me (dirt particles, floating leaves, pieces of bark and all). I don’t miss my bed nearly as much as I thought I would. And as long as I’m able to change my clothes and wash my hair at night, I feel like a human being again.

Day 27 - Little Laurel to Hogback Ridge

Today was a long day, although only a mile or so more than yesterday. Just tougher terrain, I guess, and it seemed to go on forever.

We made a lot of little stops, which really add up. I think we only had 8.7 miles to do after 2 p.m., but they were real tough ones. I was on the verge of tears for the last miles, wondering if we were ever going to get to the shelter. Finally arrived at 6.

Murph was there, along with Chops. Charlie had pushed on ahead. A lot of new faces (mostly people who started a week or so before us). If they stay at that pace, we probably won’t see much of them. Others we know are skipping sections of the trail -- Toad, Liverwurst, Nighthawk. I don’t feel the need to do that yet.

Between getting and filtering water, cooking and eating, and setting up the tent, there weren’t many hours of daylight left. I was already dreading another 20-plus mile day. When Murph said she was only going 13 or 15, we jumped at the idea.

Day 26 - Hot Springs to Little Laurel

Also yesterday, I had seen a card at Elmer’s with the name and number of a woman who cuts hair. I called (she sounded pretty old) and made an appointment for 3 p.m. Dave and I walked over to Hazel’s Beauty Shop, since he wanted her to shave his head. 

No one was home, so we sat on the steps and waited for about half an hour. Then an elderly woman with white pantyhose and shoes and a blue umbrella came walking down the street (in the 90 degree heat).

“Here she is,” Dave said, and I knew he was right. I was a bit nervous. Hazel was definitely not hip to the latest styles. She wet my head, and before I had a chance to decide how much to take off, she made the first snip. It was a lot of hair, but exactly how much was difficult to determine since there was no mirror and she immediately put the snipped locks into an empty margarine container.

Hazel apologized for being late -- she was just checking on her brother down the street. She said Hot Springs used to be quite a bustling community, with a commuter rail stopping in town four times a day, but has been dwindling as of late. So she kept cutting and cutting, and I was scared that I’d look like a boy when she finished. It wasn’t until she had completed her work that I was allowed to see it. I couldn’t tell from Dave’s face whether it was good or bad. It’s definitely short -- no more than three inches all around. I think it’s OK -- and maybe it’s the type of cut that will look better in a couple of days.

Then it was Dave’s turn. He wanted his head shaved with a number one blade (had to pick it out for her, since she couldn’t read the numbers). Her hand was shaking quite a bit. From where I sat, I could see a number of spots she’d missed. And she took off his sideburns completely, along with a two-inch patch around his ears. The total -- six dollars. Now that’s a small-town experience.

After a few guys gave him shit, Dave bought a razor to do some repair work. That actually made things worse, so he decided to go completely bald. Beano (formerly Matt) did the duty this time. Wow -- scalp that has never seen the light of day sure is white!! I’m sure it will be darker with stubble shortly.

Found a spot at the campground and got settled. Hung out with Beano, Duracell (formerly Phil), and Liverwurst for a while. Passed out the Oreo's and went to bed. Woke up around 1 and had a tough time falling back to sleep.

Have two more 20-plus mile days to get to Erwin on Friday morning. It is cold right now. Had to get in my sleeping bag 'cause I have no other clothes to put on. Good day today. It rained (of course -- we sent our rain gear home yesterday). Used our 99 cent ponchos and hiked fast to get warm. Starting to feel stronger physically.

Day 25 - Hot Springs

The atmosphere at the inn wasn’t overly friendly, and the house is in need of some repair (and cleaning). But it was definitely a unique place to stay. Lots of creaks and shudders in this old place. The bed, though, was extremely comfortable. Couldn’t even move in the morning, and would have slept late if that was an option.

We opted not to eat a “family style” breakfast with the gang and put our stuff on the porch. Within a minute, Elmer and one of his staffers jumped up to make sure we were going to pay. 

Found an entire one pound, four ounce package of Oreos in the hiker box. Score! We also scoffed a roll of TP, an empty Nalgene container, Swiss army-type knife, and lots of macaroni.

Then it was off to breakfast at the local diner. I got pancakes and of course ate every bite. Oh, Elmer has a scale at his house. According to it, I’ve lost about 11 pounds, minus what my boots, socks, jacket, and shirt weigh. So maybe it’s only seven or eight. 

Dave, on the other hand, has lost 15 pounds! He doesn’t look that skinny to me, but I know he should be eating more. Food is heavy to carry, though, so it’s hard for him to get enough.

We have had a really tough time today deciding whether to stay for another night. Last night we hung out at Ian’s cabin with Charlie, Murph, and Tim. It was a great place, with three beds and a porch, right on the river -- and cost exactly the same as Elmer’s. Oh well. Dave was pretty bummed, and I must admit I was, too. 

Today has been spent doing the usual errands -- resupply, etc. Also sent a bunch of heavy winter gear home. Dave bought a lightweight sleeping bag and some Tevas, also a small light for reading. It’s very easy to spend money on lighter gear in the hopes of freeing up the pack some.

Yesterday at the campground where Ian was staying Murph and I ran into Wingfoot (author of The Thru-Hiker's Handbook) -- or Wingnut, as Charlie calls him. I liked him a lot. He seems very smart and genuinely interested in the hikers he meets. He talked a bit about how there is still a stigma attached to young female hikers who thru-hike.

Also, he stressed how Dave and I really need to work something out so that our different paces don’t drive us apart. He suggested maybe I should start earlier or something like that. Yesterday the backs of my thighs were really hurting when I stopped hiking -- maybe I am pushing too hard.

Day 24 - Roaring Fork to Hot Springs

Good night at the shelter. Dave and I are really starting to get our “hiker appetites.” We each had a fudge pop tart as an appetizer, followed by a huge pot of macaroni and cheese. Then Dave cooked our last two Ramen noodle packets, and we ate them, too! I was considering eating something else when a former thru-hiker (’80) and his son, who were staying at the shelter, offered up a package of hot dogs. Well, alright -- as Chops would say.

Trillium in bloom

N.C. Jed had lots of encouraging words, including news that there will be no major ups or downs from Damascus, Virginia to Mt. Everett in Mass. That’s about 1,000 miles, he said. If it’s true (and I hope it is), why haven’t I heard this before? It seems a little fishy.

Murph, Dave, and Kerri on the way to Hot Springs

Like Charlie, though, he said pretty soon we won’t even think about the hiking -- it’ll just happen. We slept in the shelter, and I didn’t have a bad night. Too hot, though. I guess mice were running all over the place, but I didn’t hear them. I did, however, hear Dartman's really strange growl/snore.

Got up and out by 7:30, and we did over 11 miles before noon. The thought of a hot shower kept my motivation level up. Got to Hot Springs, North Carolina by 2. It’s hot down here -- in the 80’s, I’d say. Dave and I headed straight for Elmer’s Sunnybank Inn, which came highly recommended as “an unforgettable trail experience.” 

The first impression wasn’t a great one, but we were kind of stuck. It’s a huge old Victorian house with lots of rooms, including a music room and a reading room, and many porches. We don’t have our own bathroom, and there’s only one shower in the whole house.

Day 19 - Silers Bald Shelter to Newfound Gap

The night was long and cold. I think it was 6:30 when Dave crawled into his sleeping bag. It was just so cold that there was really nothing else to do. I waited until 8 so I could pee one last time.

The wind started to howl, slamming the poly against the chain-link fence again and again. It just never stopped. I must have fallen asleep OK, but woke up every hour from midnight on expecting morning to be just around the corner. And one of my earplugs wasn’t working, which had a major impact on my quality of sleep. 

The day finally dawned, grey and cold. Nothing to do but get moving -- quickly. First stop -- Clingman’s Dome, the highest point on the AT. On the way we encountered wintery, blustery conditions. 

Branches and stems had a coating of ice on them, and when the wind blew it sent small white squares tumbling to the ground. Murph said they looked like pieces of ribbon candy.

Finally we came to the dome -- a bizarre concrete structure with a long ramp and a dome resembling a UFO. Conditions were nearly whiteout, so we didn’t linger. Still had about eight miles to do to get to Newfound Gap. The trail was extremely muddy, but it was easier knowing we had a Mexican dinner and a warm house awaiting us.

The weather actually started improving, and we walked through a nice section of evergreen forest. Got to Newfound Gap around 2:30. I was in charge of getting us a ride, which made me kind of nervous. But I stuck out my thumb, and it was only a few minutes before “Old Timer” pulled over. He had just gotten off the trail himself. Dropped us off at stop light #10, and a little bit of culture shock set in.

Murph and Trail Dancer atop Clingman's Dome

Hotels, motels, fast food, tourist attractions galore. We had a few hours to kill before Murph’s friend was going to pick us up. Took a trolley to the library, where we checked email for the first time. Twenty-five messages?! Changed my clothes and tried to clean up a bit in the library restroom. Walked around Gatlinburg, serving as a freak show for the locals. Then we hung out and waited for Mike.

Lots of people stopped us to ask what we were doing; some were/are hikers themselves. Mike showed up at 7 to drive us to his house in Maryville. He’s a pediatrician, too; married and with two kids. Drove through Dollywood on the way so we could see the “sights.”

Got to a Mexican restaurant around 8 and chowed on chips, salsa, a burrito, and a tostado. Ate every bite. Then Mike took us to his house. Took a shower and hung out. Tim was psyched to get the sports updates. We all crashed on the livingroom floor. I did OK, thanks to an aquarium bubbling and my earplugs.

Kerri, Murph, Mike, Charlie, and Dave

The whole family was up early in the kitchen, which made sleeping difficult. Had a few hours to ourselves before Mike came back to drive us to Gatlinburg. With snow and low temperatures forecast for the Smokies, we decided to get a hotel room and take our first zero day. On the way in, we saw that the access road to the trail had been closed due to the weather. Guess we didn’t have a choice after all!

Got a room for five with three beds, a kitchenette, and two bedrooms -- all for $11 each! Walked around town for a bit. ESPN was at the Happy Hiker interviewing thru-hikers. I declined, but Dave and Charlie consented. Wonder when it will air. Oh, I guess I’m trying the name Pack-On on for size. We’ll see if it fits.

Day 18 - Russell Field Shelter to Silers Bald Shelter

Food bags hung out of reach of bears

Let's see… I forgot to mention that along the way yesterday, all of a sudden we turned a corner and the ground was covered with little white flowers. It almost looked like snowflakes dotting the green grass. I didn’t take a picture because I expected to see millions of them in the Smoky Mountains (turns out they are called spring beauties). Anyway, it was too cold and wet today for the beauties to show their sweet faces.

Russell Field Shelter

Back to last night. I was a bit concerned being in a crowded shelter, but at least we were on the top bunk. And there are fireplaces in these stone shelters, which is nice. 

A guy staying here said it was too early for him to go to sleep when it got dark, so he tended the fire for a while. I did OK once I put my earplugs in. But there was a man whose snore sounded just like a bear growling, so I immediately looked outside, expecting to see a large animal on the other side of the cage. Nothing.

I guess it poured in the morning, but I didn’t hear a thing. Had a squabble with Dave. Then my pack cover broke. And as we began to walk, it started to pour. Lovely.

We had a 15-mile day ahead of us. I just wasn’t into it. Fell all the way down into the mud, and that was my breaking point. Was by myself, so I started to cry. Wondering what I’d gotten myself into and whether I could really last 5 ½ more months. Dave stopped to wait for me, and he was upset that I hadn’t said anything to him sooner. I was cold and wet and miserable and really having trouble moving one foot in front of the other. Sometimes the days just seem so long, and the miles come so slowly.

I’ve read that it takes six to eight weeks to get into “trail shape,” so I guess I’ve got a ways to go. We kept walking and soon enough came to a shelter -- 9 ½ miles down, 5 ½ to go. Ate some lunch but was so cold and wet I just had to start moving.

The miles were pretty easy ones, which helped us make good time to the shelter. And the rain had stopped! Took the opportunity to clean my muddy self off at the river and change into some dry clothes. Much better! This shelter looks the same as the last one and is just as crowded.

P.S. -- Found out from Breaking Wind that Pacman is a professional tennis player. Pretty cool!

Day 17 - Fontana Dam to Russell Field Shelter

We ate dinner last night at the restaurant. The buffet was too expensive, so we just ordered meals. Ate with Hipbone and Mountain Goat (from North Carolina). They keep saying how when they met us, I looked so clean! I guess it was my “pretty shirt” that threw them off. 

Hipbone said he thought my trail name should be Precarious, kind of a play on my real name and reference to the dangerous spot we were in when they met us. Hung out with them and Tim for a bit. He’s really funny, but was saying how Hot Springs may be Maine for him. He just hasn’t been having fun lately. We’ll see what happens.

We watched TV a little at night, but eventually it was time for bed. I actually did quite well. The bed was really comfortable, and especially the pillow.

Got up and went to the breakfast buffet, which meant we wouldn’t need to stop for lunch. Got the shuttle back to Fontana Dam, and who were there but Tim and Donna (and Donna’s son). They had driven out and got to the shelter at 1 a.m. -- then had driven around Fontana Village looking for us. After only a few hours of sleep, they got up at 5:30 to start cooking the eggs and bacon they had brought!

Murph, Dave, Tim, and Charlie

Anyway, it was good to see them for what will probably be the last time (for a while, anyway). Then we entered the Smoky Mountains National Park. It was a late start and a tough climb, especially after half a day off. Those 13 miles were really tough ones for me. We saw some bear scat along the way (on the trail). Finally got to the shelter and found that it does have a cage on the front. Bears have been seen here in the past week. We set up the tent, but then Dave found that the shelter had room. So here we are.

Day 16 - Cable Gap Shelter to Fontana Dam

It was pouring in the morning, which makes packing up all that more slow and difficult. I didn’t even bother wearing my jacket, because it gets wet on the outside and I sweat so much that my clothes get wet anyway. 

Dave and I didn’t have anything for breakfast, as we had eaten our pop-tarts after dinner. I guess I should have bought extra food just in case. Now I know. 

We had 6.6 miles to do to get to Fontana Dam, and Dave was raring to go. I had to run on the flat parts to catch up with him. The rain was pouring down, which made the leaves, roots, and rocks that much more slippery. 

I had this strange flashback to a raincoat I had when I was little. It said “Rain is a pain in the shell” and had a picture of a blue turtle on the back. Then, what did we encounter on the trail but a small turtle -- orange and yellow and black. It blended in well with the dead leaves on the ground. 

We made it to Fontana by 10:30. Were walking to the showers when T-Bo drove by with Charlie, Dan, and Ken inside. He picked us all up and took us to the “resort.” This isn’t a real town, just a touristy village with a hotel, cabins, grocery store, laundromat, etc. We got the only available clean room at the time. Murph and Charlie are going in on it with us, so it comes to only $10 per person. I took a wonderfully hot shower that blasted the dirt right off of me.

Just hanging in Fontana today. Did laundry, resupplied, sent a few things home (two Nalgene bottles, extra gloves, half of my guidebooks, multi-tool). Waiting for the dinner buffet to start at 5. Hope I can sleep tonight, but if not, I’ll be dry, warm, and comfortable. Maybe earplugs will help.

Day 15 - Sassafrass Gap to Cable Gap Shelter

Well, it was a good experiment, but not a complete success. After eating in the dark, we all got into the shelter and started getting ready for bed. Packs and clothes and food bags were hanging everywhere. I had a pretty cozy setup against the wall. Was really tired. Listened as the sounds of other hikers’ breathing deepened.

Eventually fell asleep but awoke around 12:45 to the sound of chomping teeth -- a mouse was on a wall ledge somewhere near my pack. He was eating something, yet I didn’t have any food in my pack. Was he shredding my precious TP to make a nest? Suddenly something fell onto my fleece jacket/pillow. What the hell was that? I didn’t have the nerve to feel around to find it.

Bad rest of the night, and of course exhausted at 7. We had a 15-mile day planned -- our biggest yet. First seven miles were OK -- a few steep parts. Then after crossing the road, the book said we’d come to a really steep climb. That’s an understatement!

Hard work on the feet, legs, and lungs. Miles were slow going. The bottoms of my feet were starting to hurt, and the tops of my toes were sore from hitting the front of my boots. Finally made it to the shelter around 4:30. Oh, Murph said my trail name should be Pack-On because I never take my pack off during breaks. Or Charlie suggested Kinetic -- will have to look up the definition of that one to make sure it fits.

Gave Dave a haircut tonight with his multi-tool. Took about an hour to thin out that nest. Then the scissors broke, and I had to clean up with a razor. It just started raining, so we threw all the gear inside the tent. I hate being so disorganized. To Fontana tomorrow.
P.S. -- Boy, did it pour last night. It was like being inside a washing machine, as Breaking Wind (wind surfer from Hawaii) said. Not a bad night’s sleep, though it was quite clammy inside the tent. And I found that I couldn’t sleep on my stomach because it hurt to put that much pressure on my toes. Oh, met a bunch of hikers last night who we hadn’t seen before -- Tortoise and Hare, Ken from Kansas, Honey and Moon, Hipbone and Mountain Goat, Mighty Mouse.

Day 14 - Wesser Shelter to Sassafrass Gap

The tent was at an angle last night, which isn’t very conducive to sleep. Tough getting up at 6:50, but we were on the trail by 7:45 -- which is early for us.

It was supposed to be five miles straight downhill, but of course it never is. There were actually quite a few ups, and the downs weren’t that severe. Went to the Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC), where they have whitewater rafting, an outfitter, and restaurants. First on the agenda was a shower.

 
Then we checked out the store. Lots of hikers -- some who had been behind us and others whom we hadn’t met before. It was hot -- supposedly record-breaking heat. Good day to relax in the afternoon. Charlie, Murph, Dave and I went for lunch. At the store, we each bought a lighter pair of socks; and I got a water bag with a hose so I can take a sip whenever I want. Will definitely come in handy in the summer. Savored a Ben and Jerry’s sorbet before the dreaded four o’clock hour hit.

It was still blazing hot, and we had at least seven hard uphill miles to do. An obnoxious man from Seattle told us even he wouldn’t attempt it in the afternoon, and he’s an “experienced hiker.” 

I was a little worried that we wouldn’t make it by nightfall. But we actually made great time considering the toughness of the climb -- 3 ½ hours. The four of us (plus Matt and Phil) played a trivia game part of the way, which made the hike go by faster.

 
Got to the shelter at 8, and there was no one here. Couldn’t find any level ground, and it was late, so I said I’d sleep in the shelter if I could have one of the ends. We’ll see how it goes…

P.S. -- On the way into NOC, it was almost as if we could see spring coming to life before our eyes. Buds on trees were becoming beautiful leaves, small white flowers were starting to open up, new fresh smells were wafting through the air. I think it’s because we were descending to a lower elevation that we saw so much color and life. It hasn’t made its way up to the tops of the mountains yet. Also saw two snakes yesterday -- a tan one with black markings and a baby.

Day 13 - Wine Spring Campground to Wesser Shelter

Good night’s sleep last night, though the zero degree bag is becoming too heavy. Decided to do 13.6 miles. The first 7.6 were pretty easy. Then at the shelter, after lunch, Dave and Murph wanted to hang out for a while, so I pushed on.

It was a pretty tough uphill climb in the hot North Carolina sun. Was rewarded with a beautiful 360 degree view from the top of a fire tower. 

And just before the shelter, I found the path to the water. I was really hoping for more of a stream than a puddle or a trickle. And I was psyched to find ice cold water gushing from a pipe in the side of the mountain. 

I grabbed a Nalgene and started pouring the precious liquid on top of my overheated head. It felt so good, but inevitably led to brain freeze. Gave the hair a quick washing. Heaven.

It’s dry tonight, so the tent will air out. Possible thundershowers, though. Five miles down to Wesser in the morning.

Day 12 - Wallace Gap to Wine Spring Campground

Hot day -- supposed to get up to 85, so the going was slow at first. Didn’t get to the first campground til 5. I was ready, willing, and able to do the two miles to another spot, but no one else was interested. Just chillin’ out here. Still no trail name for me. Dave is Longshanks, after the character in The Lord of the Rings and his long limbs (Did I say that already?)

  P.S. -- Saw a number of rabbits driving to and from the Winters’ house. That’s the most wildlife we’ve seen so far.

Anecdote -- We met this man Nighthawk and his black dog Shadow at the shelter after Kelly Knob. He’s in his 40’s, salt and pepper hair, goatee, a little rough around the edges, smokin’ weed. Wasn’t shy about telling everyone he ran out of dog food, and Shadow was “starving.” Anyway, someone told us later that Nighthawk is a vet. Dave seemed to find this very surprising. I didn’t -- he looked around the right age, right demeanor. It turns out Dave thought he was a veterinarian. Ha ha.

Day 11 - Carter Gap Shelter to Wallace Gap

Tim and Donna deliver trail magic

We left Carter Gap around 8:15 and said goodbye to the Tates. [P.S. – I never even wrote about how Tim and Donna became our first trail angels. When we were at Carter Gap, all of a sudden they came walking up the path to the shelter – carrying their packs as well as packages of hot dogs, chili, onions, and potato chips. Luckily, we hadn’t eaten yet (though I’m sure we would have again). It had taken them a while to track us down, including stops at the Blueberry Patch and other shelters, where they showed our pictures to people to help find us. Quite a lot of effort they put into their investigation!]

We had an easy walk for a few miles before coming to Albert Mountain. This was well-documented in the handbook as a “near vertical scramble over rocks,” so I was a bit nervous. It was hard, but not impossible – though it left hikers sweating and out of breath at the top. Good place to relax for a while.

Dave and I climbed the fire tower for a decent (though a little hazy) view. When I look at the mountains all around us, I have no idea where we’ve come from or where we’re going. I’m content just following the white blazes. 


Headed down off the mountain, and lo and behold there were Tim and Donna. They had driven to near the top of the mountain to see us. Tim was carrying a cooler of ice cold water. We hung out for a while, and they said they’d meet us at Rainbow Springs. So we started walking again.

After a few miles, I was in the lead. Charlie had already gone ahead to the campground to make a few phone calls to England. A woman and man were coming the other way, and we exchanged hellos. Then she said, “Are you Kerri?” I said yes right away, not processing how random and bizarre the whole situation was. She said she was Kathy, and with her was her husband Oak! They had taken a day hike, hoping they’d bump into us based on the info I’d left on their answering machine.

We all sat on a log and waited for Murph and Dave. They gave me an orange, as they’d been offering to all the other hikers they’d seen. It was really good to see them and to know the effort they put into finding me (us). Kathy said they planned to take Dave and me home for the night. We went to the car, where they had a cooler full of soda and candy bars!

They also invited Murph and Charlie. We all piled in the Ford Explorer and away we went. A deer ran across the road just in front of us – ironically, our first major wildlife sighting. Finally got to their house on the side of a mountain. 

What a house! Beautiful location, beautifully decorated. Dave and I had a room on the first floor with a real bed. Dinner was served out on the back deck – London broil, salad, bean salad, mashed potatoes, rolls. Then Kathy took us to SuperWalmart to resupply.

Kerri, Oak, Kathy, Charlie, and Dave

She was so good about knowing what we would need and when -- since she’s been through all this before. She even showed us one of her AT photo albums. Bought a half-gallon of Brown Cow ice cream for the four of us to share. Had trouble falling asleep, but when I did, it was a good night. Anyway, we decided to go out to breakfast so we could try grits. Kathy took us to the Cullowhee Café, the local greasy spoon, for hot cakes, eggs and grits (sort of like bland oatmeal). Then it was back to Wallace Gap.

Day 10 - Muscrat Creek Shelter to Carter Gap Shelter

Good night. Went down to see Pacman because we heard he had written a song about the trail. It’s sung to the tune of Simon and Garfunkel’s “Feelin’ Groovy.” Pretty funny – Murph and I sang the chorus.

Had pasta and sardines in Louisiana hot sauce for dinner. Not bad. Slept well until 1:45. Could have sworn that I heard a bear wandering from tent to tent. Must have been my overactive, overtired mind playing tricks on me.

Awoke to damp, dark, overcast skies. It didn’t look too promising, but it was warm. Pretty easy day terrain-wise. 

Climbed Standing Indian Mountain and actually had a view from the top! 

Pretty easy walk to the shelter. Could have done more, but Murph and Dave wanted to stop. Enjoying the warm weather – no fleece or hat tonight. Chatting with Goose, older man originally from Worcester who’s run the marathon six or seven times.

The Old Gray Goose

Keep bumping into Ian, a Scottish paratrooper making a documentary for the BBC. Will try to make it to Rainbow Springs Campground tomorrow.