Day 36 - Watauga Shelter to Double Springs

Got up and tried to get an early start, but it didn’t happen. Dave’s hipbelt buckle snapped in half, so we tried using Mick’s cement glue – to no avail. But just tying the belt in a knot seemed to be sufficient.

Did a tough 6.7 miles to the first shelter. My right forearm started cramping up really bad, and I thought it must have something to do with my poles. Then the pain started spreading to my back and shoulder. I suddenly realized how much harder it is to hike when you’re in pain. Made me grateful for the fact that I haven’t suffered from blisters, shinsplits, and other maladies to date.

Got to the shelter and re-adjusted my pack, which seemed to help the situation. We were now entering the stretch of terrain known as the “Damascus death march,” because these fairly flat 33 miles can be hiked in a day. In the heat, though, nothing is that easy. Got to the second shelter, had lunch, and took a short break before pushing on the final eight miles (bringing us to a grand total of 21.7).

Made it to our destination around 7. The shelter was empty, except for a couple from North Carolina tenting nearby. They were very nice, and had lots of questions about thru hiking. The sky got very dark; then came the thunder and the rain. Luckily, we and all our gear stayed dry in the shelter. A very brazen mouse was darting around before nightfall, which wasn’t promising.

Too tired to do any writing, so we crashed around 9:30. During the night, I felt something tugging on my hair – that darn mouse must have been looking for some nesting material. So on went the thick fleece hat.

Day 35 - Laurel Creek Hostel to Watauga Shelter

Got up and had trouble getting motivated, as is our usual situation in town. Got a ride back to the trail at 10.

We’d heard horror stories from the slackpackers about our three-mile climb up Pond Flats. First came to a huge waterfall. The climb itself was hard, but I felt pretty darn good despite the heat. Now I know what Dave is talking about when he says, “I feel great.”

We were rewarded when we got down the other side with a big lake (Lake Watauga). Chops and Pappy were already there, and Whitey and Number One came down with us. 

Sat by a nice beach in the sun, had some lunch and just chilled out. Whitey discovered that yes, an inflatable Thermarest ground pad can be used as a raft.

Longshanks cools off (photo published in Appalachian Trailway News; see Publications of interest link at right)

Hung out til 4, then we all made a group effort to get motivated. Dave, Chops and I only did the extra 1.8 miles to the next shelter and called it quits. Mick was the only one there, so we set up shop inside. Decent night’s sleep.

Mick, Longshanks, and Chops at Watauga Shelter

Day 34 - Campsite #1 to Laurel Creek Hostel

Only had 11.6 miles to do to get to the road, but I had a feeling they’d be tough ones. This terrain is steep ups and steep downs with lots of rhododendrons and boggy creeks or streams at the bottom.

 

Took five solid hours to make it to the road. I was on my own the whole way – didn’t want to hang around waiting for Dave in the morning. I find myself counting or singing stupid songs in my head to break up the monotony – especially on the uphills.

Just before the road was a cooler – semi-trail magic provided by the Laurel Creek Hostel. The fruit punch drink was mighty refreshing. Didn’t know which of the two hostels Dave and Tim would want to go to, so I sat on a log and had lunch while I waited. A cat was walking by on the street, so I called to it and it came up to me. Jumped right on me and was very affectionate. So I just chilled out for about an hour.

Turns out they wanted to go to Laurel Creek, so I was glad I’d waited. It’s a nice place with lots of services. The three of us are staying in the 11-bed bunkhouse. Got a ride in the van into town (Elizabethton) for food shopping. At the supermarket, there was a mirror behind the meat counter. When I looked into it, I didn’t even recognize myself at first!

Bought chicken to grill and a frozen pizza to cook. Will be tough to put all that weight in my backpack again.

Hung out at the hostel, cooking and eating. Talked to Chef for a while, who’s nice. And Kid Rock isn’t as bad as I thought he was going to be. Pretty harmless, though quite a drinker. 

Longshanks and Chops at Laurel Creek

The Outlaws showed up late. Dave, Tim and I ended up having the bunkhouse to ourselves, which was nice. Pack explosions everywhere. Gerber, Trail Dancer, and Mudman came in later, too, after their 29-mile slackpack.

Dave called Kathy and Skip. They are expecting us to arrive in Damascus sometime Saturday afternoon.

Day 33 - Overmountain Shelter to Campsite #1

Left the shelter and immediately started climbing. I thought it would get easier after Roan! Climbed to the top of a beautiful bald, then another one.

In the distance, I could see cows but wasn’t sure if the trail went right past there. It did! 

It was a cloudy, sort of misty day – perfect weather for that location. Longhorn cattle were sprawled out right next to the trail. No fences or anything! That made my day.

Threat of rain, but nothing materialized for a while. Finally got to the road, from which there was access to civilization, if desired. Dave wanted to walk the .5 miles to a convenience store. Chops and I went along. Walked a half-mile before realizing we’d gone the wrong direction.

Back on the trail for another eight hard miles. The sun was beating down on us as we climbed these steep ascents. Walked through some farmland and pastures at the top of one of the hills (as the guidebook called them).

More cows. Started to rain at 5, and we weren’t done yet. Some kick-ass climbs that weren’t listed in any of the books or on the profile maps.

Finally found a campsite at 6 near water. Dave scouted out a great spot under a pine tree with a flat spot for our tent and Tim’s. Also offered some protection for cooking. Rain let up around 9. Good night’s sleep.

Day 32 - Greasy Creek Gap to Overmountain Shelter

Slept great last night, but awoke with a feeling of semi-dread about the climb up and over Roan Mountain. After Steve told us to give that mountain a kick for him (or words to that effect), I was a bit nervous. He’s the fastest hiker I’ve seen.

Left after Tim but before Dave, Beano, and Stretch (Phil) to get a jump on the day. Did quite a bit of climbing over peaks, which seemed odd since Roan was just ahead. I guess each hiking club gets to route its own section of the trail. Was expecting a sign, but didn’t see one – so I actually started climbing Roan without knowing what it was. Maybe that was a good thing.

Tim, aka Chops

About half-way up, I heard a man screaming something about “1,000 feet” and “this f----in pack”. I really thought it was Tim and that he was about to go (or had already gone) over the edge. Started walking after a minute and caught up to a man I hadn’t seen before. It didn’t dawn on me immediately that he’s the one I had heard. Saw Tim and took a break. I left ahead of him and quickly passed Tumbling Tom, who explained that he thought we were a lot higher up the mountain than we actually were.

Parts were pretty vertical, but it was more interesting to climb over rocks and roots than just back and forth switchbacks. Anyway, made it 7 ½ miles to the top of Roan in about four hours – pretty good time. Took a blue-blaze to the highest shelter on the AT – a former fire warden’s cabin. Was expecting a great view – as the woman had promised us the day before – but there was none. The top of the mountain is covered in pine trees. Waited for Dave for a while. Matt came up and said Dave must have missed the blue blaze, so I kept going. Soon came to another series of balds – quite beautiful and reminiscent of Ireland.

Overmountain Shelter from afar

We planned to stay at the shelter that is a converted barn and was used in the filming of “Winter People,” starring Kurt Russell and Goldie Hawn. What a spot! Nicest place we’ve stayed yet! The view was just amazing – hopefully the pictures will do it justice. A bunch of us (eight or so) stayed in the loft, while the others were down below or tenting. Lots of people we hadn’t met before were there – Mountain Dew’d, Derby, Bear, Alias and Morning Dove (from Somerville), Chef… also the Outlaws – Sasquatch (16), Torch (14), and Boo (12).

 

I guess they got on the trail at Newfound Gap and were hiking with Breaking Wind for a while. They are home-schooled, and Sas said it took six months to convince their parents to let them go. (Real names are Glory Be to God [both girls] and Ezekiel…). Quite mature kids. Would make a great story if they finish. I guess “the law” is out looking for them; hence the name Outlaws.

Beano, Longshanks, and Chops

Day 31 - Curley Maple Gap to Greasy Creek Gap

Got up and hit the trail late (8:30), which isn’t encouraging when you have a 20-mile day ahead of you. Took a break on a nice bald.

 
Dave kept talking about how great he felt – what am I doing wrong? Maybe it’s the heat, maybe it’s the extra weight in my pack. Dave said having a big breakfast helped him a lot. Anyway, I explained how I struggle on every climb and am having a tough time keeping up with a group of men. He seemed to understand and did slow down for me.

We made the mistake (I think) of stopping for lunch at the 11-mile mark. Took a long break, then had to stop at the next shelter for water.

Oh, met a couple who thru-hiked in ’95. She was saying how few female hikers there were then – didn’t see a single other woman in the Smokies. That’s kind of how I’ve been feeling lately – lone female in a male tribe.

Day 30 - Nolichucky River to Curley Maple Gap

Got up around 8 (late!). Everyone decided to go out to breakfast, and I enjoyed my meal. But then I sort of freaked out -- this not working and spending money and paying the mortgage and the bills thing is pretty stressful -- even if I do still have money in the bank. It’s an issue I’m going to have to work though, I think.

It’s 3:35, and we’re trying to decide whether to stay another night and slackpack 19 miles tomorrow. I’d like to do it -- maybe because I’m afraid of how tough the hiking will be in the heat with my extra heavy backpack. Well, the decision was made to not slackpack and push on. I was not a happy camper.

Oh, in the morning we hitched a ride into town from a man who said he’d come back and check on us in a while. After breakfast, he came back and drove us to the local dollar store (great deals on food -- too bad we’d already loaded up) and an outfitter before taking us back to the hostel.

Then we went to the library. Sent a lengthy email out to everyone. Walked through Erwin for a bit -- nice houses with big porches and beautiful lawns and gardens; friendly people. 

Hitched back to the hostel… decided to push on. Really tough to get motivated. Didn’t leave until 6 because people were waiting to get their fuel from Johnny and check out. I guess he is a bit sleazy, sort of like a used car salesman. Some call him “Johhny Cash,” which is fitting. But it was a nice, clean place; convenient to town; and I’m glad we stayed there. 

Headed out on the trail and came across a campground. Turns out there is an outfitter there (Johnny would have charged $25 for a ride to a different outfitter).

Pushed on with our heavy packs. Hopefully I’ve learned another lesson. Made it to the shelter around 8 and just decided to stay there. The floor slanted down, which makes sleeping difficult when your head is at the bottom.

Day 29 - Spivey Gap to Nolichucky River

Didn’t want to camp by the road at Spivey Gap, so we stopped a bit before and set up on a nice section of trail where the pine needles were about six inches deep. Had precious little food left to get us to lunch the next day. But luckily, there are better prepared people hiking with us who were willing to share.

Phil gave us a bag of pasta, and Matt handed over one of his blueberry/coconut/pecan pancakes hot off the griddle. Will have to try those at home! Didn’t head out the next morning til 8:30. Pretty easy walking most of the way, which was nice.



Made it to Erwin a little after 12:30. Uncle Johnny’s is right off the trail, the first thing you see. We had been warned us about this place -- how Johnny would try to get money from you in any way possible -- putting a cup of coffee in your hand and then asking for $1, for example. But it hasn't been like that at all.

First deer!

It’s a really nice place with a huge front deck, stereo playing all the time, big clean bathrooms, level ground for tents. I like it a lot.

Got our first maildrop package here -- jacket, contact lenses, toiletries, postcards, some food. After everyone got settled, we got a ride into town. First we did laundry, then food shopping (always dangerous on an empty stomach -- especially so if you’re a hiker).

Dave and I got separate baskets and loaded up for the next three days -- total came to $75! Obviously, we got more than three days’ worth -- but we’re going to have to carry it nevertheless.

Then we all went to La Hacienda for some cheap Mexican food, followed by a movie (O Brother, Where Art Thou?). Hit the sack around midnight.

Day 23 - Painter Branch to Roaring Fork

It was a good night, but for some reason I didn’t sleep well. I think I was too hot in my zero degree bag. Everything felt clammy.

Got up and did lots of up and down miles in the morning. Stopped for lunch before a 3 ½ mile climb up to Max Patch. (Side note: In the morning, all the guys were standing around stretching and eyeing each other. It was almost like we were about to start running a race and people were forming strategies to get into a good position).

It was worth the climb to the bald -- something totally different than we’ve seen before, which was nice. We all took off our packs and boots and socks and did some sunbathing. I actually fell asleep for a bit leaning against my pack.

Charlie videotapes Tim

Longshanks relaxes in the sun

Finally got motivated close to 3 to do the last five miles. They were joyfully flat, so we made good time to the shelter. Level ground for tenting was scarce, and since I had a bad night last night, decided to sleep inside.

P. S. -- Yesterday, on the way out of Gatlinburg, Matt, Phil, Achilles, and Sweetwater saw a huge bear cross the street (stopping traffic in the process). Guess we should have stayed in town to see a bear!

Day 22 - Tri-Corner Knob to Painter Branch

Got up around 6:45 and actually started walking by 7:30 -- our earliest departure yet. Made 10 ½ miles by noon, so we kept plugging to get to Mountain Moma’s.

Had to walk 1.3 miles off the trail to get there, and it was quite a disappointment. Very dumpy -- similar to the Rainbow Springs campground. And their prices are higher than what’s quoted in the book. No sense paying $15 for a campsite when you can camp in the woods for free.

We resupplied, then had to order a famous, huge cheeseburger. It was good, I must admit, followed by a Smoky Mt. Fudge ice cream cone to celebrate being done with the Smokies. Moma’s décor included signs that said “Waitress can except tips” on every booth. Ugh.

Murph

We were hanging around outside, dreading the prospect of more hiking, until a guy in a pickup truck offered to drive seven of us back to the trail. Cool! It was so much warmer in Davenport than the Smokies. The bugs were back in full force, which says a lot about the temperature.

Wasn’t psyched about going uphill for three miles, after having already done 17, but it went by pretty fast. Found a great big level camping area and parked it here around 7. No need to cook dinner, which is nice for a change.

P.S. -- Actually, did a total of 21.7 miles.

Day 21 - Newfound Gap to Tri-Corner Knob

Ten of us piled into the motel room Wednesday night. Dave and I got a bed, with Phil and Jason on the floor in our room. Watched some TV for a while, including part of Boot Camp (c’mon now, that doesn’t look so tough after all), South Park, and the Simpson’s.

Tim’s sister Mary is on a road trip and happened to be in Tennessee, so they hooked up. Pretty cool. Got up and out of the motel by 8. A hiker picked us up and was only going to take us ¾ of the way but ended up bringing us all the way to Newfound Gap. It was cold up there. Some Texas women asked me to take their picture in front of snow.

It was a beautiful clear day with lots of great views. A thru-hiker had told us that the second half of the Smokies are some of the easiest miles on the AT down south, and he seemed to be right. Took a bunch of pictures and made really good time.

Got to the shelter around 4 (started at 9). It was already starting to get crowded, so we quickly threw down our sleeping bags. I believe 19 people jammed themselves in. I was between Dave and Tim. It was so cold that I put on two pairs of long underwear, shorts, sleeveless shirt, two long-sleeved shirts, fleece, thick hat, two pairs of Smartwool socks, and was still cold. Nothing to do but snuggle into my zero degree sleeping bag. And with no light, nothing to do but sleep. I try not to look at the time, but it couldn’t have been 8:30.

I am always worried about the “pee factor” and try not to drink anything at night. Around 9 I woke up and thought I had to pee but couldn’t bear (no pun intended) the thought of getting out of my sleeping bag, finding my shoes, feeling my way to the cage door, and hoping that I didn’t encounter a bear on my evening excursion. So I held it -- for 91/2 hours!

Day 20 - Gatlinburg

Charlie

Starting to lose track of my days. I hope I’m right about day 20. Yesterday we walked around Gatlinburg, which I guess is the third most popular tourist destination in the U.S.

Lots of fast food places, hotels/motels, Ripley’s Believe It or Not, old tyme photo shops, walk-in wedding centers. Kind of a bizarre mix. Dave and Charlie were drinking beer in the room -- really the first opportunity for alcohol we’ve had thusfar. We heard that hikers often head to the Smoky Mt. Brewery, so that’s where we went. Lots of people already there, including Hipbone and Mountain Goat, Matt (Beano), Phil (Duracell), Lawyer Dan, Sweetwater, the Honeymooners… Stayed out til about midnight.

I’m getting quite attached to my earplugs. They help a lot. Decided at night that due to the snow and cold we were going to take another zero day. Guess it was a good decision, since some people who headed out in the morning ended up coming back. No plans for the day. Checked email at the library.

Then a guy offered us one of those timeshare demo things -- sit for 90 minutes and earn $75. Sounded good to us! The sales pitch was long, followed by a bus trip to the resort. Then the bottom line came -- and “no” wasn’t readily accepted as an answer until we explained how we were currently hiking the AT for the next six months. Oops. The whole deal actually lasted three hours, and thank God we got our check.

Turns out Matt, Phil, Achilles, and Sweetwater had taken us up on our offer to share our suite. And Tim’s sister is in town, too, so she’ll be staying with us. Looking forward to getting back on the trail and working off some of this food I’ve been sucking down. Should I buy a Walkman? I think it would definitely help. Everyone is getting antsy here. Hopefully we’ll get a fairly early start, and the conditions will enable us to get in 15 miles tomorrow.