Day 166 - Katahdin Stream Campground to Mt. Katahdin

Went to the ranger's station to drop off our unneeded gear -- I unloaded everything except breakfast, my camera, my sleeping bag, and extra clothing. I was skipping with glee -- so light and so free.

The climb started off easy. It was warm, though, and I was beginning to regret the long underwear clinging to my legs. It was strange to be hiking at night. You really had to pay attention to the ground in front of you.

Then we started going up. Lots of rocks to maneuver around, then some we had to hoist ourselves up and over. Eventually we broke free from the trees. The night was perfectly clear, and we kept climbing closer and closer to the stars above.

 

Eventually we got above treeline -- nothing but big boulders all around us. The wind whipped around the corner of the mountain. It was time for a break and to pile on the layers. On went my long-sleeved shirt, my jacket, my fleece hat, and my gloves. It was cold!

We had some serious bouldering ahead of us. Dave's headlamp had died a mile or so back, but once we were above treeline he was able to get by with just the light of the moon to guide him. At one point we stopped and could see a line of headlamps slowly coming around the side of the mountain and could hear whoops and hollers echoing in the night.

Onward we went, grasping onto rocks and hoisting ourselves upward and upward still. It was scary at times but might have been scarier if we could have seen where we were and what the drop-offs really looked like. Eventually we made it to the Tablelands, and the terrain flattened out quite a bit but remained rocky nonetheless.

 
People started picking up speed, knowing that the summit wasn't too far ahead. The sky was gradually lightening, and soon we saw wisps of cotton in the sky being whipped around like streamers at a birthday party. Someone made it to the top, then another. We could see their black outlines against the pale peach sky. And still we kept walking.

Then it was in sight -- the summit sign. Dave was raising his poles in victory as we neared closer. I had been strangely unemotional and then, upon seeing the sign, burst into tears. We both touched it at the same time. Then there were hugs all around, and I noticed others had been crying as well.

 
We'd made it before the sunrise. Boy, was it cold! We took turns taking pictures by the sign. No time to sit and chat -- everyone got into their sleeping bags (heads where the feet usually go; upzippered to let your face poke through). The stink was tremendous, but preferable to the severe cold.

 
Everyone did their best to find a place to sit amongst the rocks. Fender passed around a mason jar of blueberry moonshine. I ate my breakfast -- a huge honeybun and oreo cookies.

 
Mary Poppins got naked; Bad Moon posed in his skirt on top of the sign. Then we had a group photo taken. There were 13 of us in all -- Smittee, Booger, Leslie, Mary Poppins, Smiles, Fiddlehead, Jeremiah Johnson, Bad Moon, Fender, Noggin, Happy, Longshanks, and me.

After about an hour and a half, the cold had become unbearable and everyone decided to leave. First Dave put the stone he had been carrying from Jimmy's grave on the cairn on top of the mountain. Everyone else decided to go down via the Knife's Edge. I did not like the looks of that. Very scary. The trail ended on top of the mountain; it didn't matter how you came down.

 
So we started hiking down the mountain the way we had come up. The sky was blue, and the air was getting warmer. It wasn't nearly as treacherous as I thought it was going to be. We bumped into some hikers along the way, happy for an opportunity to share our good news. There were congratulations all around. Finally we made it back to the campground.

None of the group had arrived yet. We returned to the ranger's station to collect our gear. Dave wrote in the register a quote about marriage that was so touching. I went back later to write something to him, but he never saw it. Maybe we'll go back someday to read those entries and reminisce.

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For those of you still with me, I hope you've enjoyed your virtual hike. Thanks to those who took the time to comment (especially Murph!). It's not too late to do so. I will continue to add photos as time permits (reunions, etc.). So check back once in a while. Also check out the page on the blog with other hikers' summit photos.
Thanks for reading!
Blur/Kerri

Day 165 - Abol Bridge to Katahdin Stream Campground

Really took our time in the morning. The day had dawned clear and cool. Got a cup of coffee at the camp store, ate egg sandwiches made by Smittee, let the gear dry out some. We all wandered back to the store around 11 for final supplies.

 

A few locals were standing, staring up at an old TV on top of the fridge. There were images of a plane crashing into a building, then an explosion. I thought I heard one of the men sniffling. The words 'terrorist attack' flashed at the bottom of the screen, then I heard the newscaster say that a second tower had been hit. All of a sudden I realized that this had not been an accident -- that someone on a suicide mission had flown the plane directly into a building -- killing everyone aboard, not to mention in the building and on the ground below. I was fighting back the tears and doing OK til I stepped outside.

We all stood around, kind of in shock. I just lost it and buried my head in Dave’s chest. It was all so awful to think about. All those people who had just gotten on a plane to go on vacation or a business trip; everyone who had just gone to work in the morning thinking it was an ordinary day… Very sad.

All of us were eager to get away from the evil and destruction and get back into the woods. Turned out to be a fantastic walk -- flat and wooded and green. Stopped for lunch by a river. Then we took a break by Little Niagara Falls. Pretty impressive.
 

 
Only a few more miles to Daicey Pond campground, where we’d find out if there were any openings at Katahdin Stream campground. We were in luck! There were just enough spots for all of us. So off we went.

Fiddlehead, Jeremiah Johnson, Mary Poppins, Blur, Longshanks, Leslie, and Smittee

Once we arrived, we found all the thru-hikers who had finished that day in the parking lot -- Rabbit and crew, plus Greenlight and Redneck. They were whooping it up with beer and champagne. You could see Katahdin from the parking lot, glowing orangy-pink in the light from the setting sun. It didn’t look small or far away anymore.

 
 

Smittee, Longshanks, Blur, and Greenlight

Smiles and Blur

Eventually we went off to find our sites. We were sharing with Smiles and Fiddlehead and Happy, who hadn’t arrived yet. Decided to do a night hike up Katahdin, leaving around 1:30 a.m., so we didn’t set up the tent. Didn’t cook dinner either, since we had done so much snacking.

I was really cold and climbed into my sleeping bag as soon as it got dark, wishfully thinking I’d catch a few ZZ’s. Didn’t happen. But at least I got some rest. Popped out of bed as soon as Fiddlehead’s alarm went off. Put on long underwear under my shorts, even though it didn't seem too cold. I knew we had thousands of feet yet to hike -- our biggest climb ever, saved for last.

Day 164 - Pollywog Stream to Abol Bridge

Walked to the first shelter, where we found Rabbit, Finn, Phantom, Priceless, etc. Got water, then pushed on to Abol bridge. Smiles and I were hiking together.

When we got to the road, there was only one bridge in sight. It was so ordinary, I thought that it couldn’t be the Abol bridge. But it was. You just have to be walking on it to understand. There’s a great view of Katahdin off to the left.
 

Immediately after the bridge was the campground and small store. Deadwood’s mother and aunt were there, with fruit and a can of Budweiser for hikers. We found out there wasn’t enough room for all of us at the campground, but that we could stay across the street on some state-run sites.

 
I was bummed because I had been so desperately wanting a shower. But I made do with my Platypus and camp soap. We resupplied at the store, which gets electricity from a generator and has no telephone. Lots of dust on the shelves and expensive pricetags. But we had no other option. And of course we had to buy beer and wine coolers.

The state sites were beautiful and best of all, free (thanks to the honor system). We got to spread out and take over the place. Were hanging out by the fire at night when some people came wandering up -- turns out they were Cy’s (Booger’s) parents, bearing a cooler of Newcastles and a bottle of champagne. Don’t know how they found us, especially in the dark. Then it started to rain, and the party broke up.

Day 163 - Potaywadjo Lean-to to Pollywog Stream

Comfortable night’s sleep. Eighteen miles was the plan. Bumped into Smittee and Cy a little ways up the trail. They had spent the night at White House Landing.

We all stopped for a break at a lake. Great sandy beach, blue skies, and coolish breeze. Chilled out for 2 ½ hours. Smittee found and cooked some freshwater clams. I couldn’t try one without butter. Grasshopper said they tasted like chicken fat with snot.

Finally got motivated to start walking again. Had a 750-foot climb which seemed steeper than Katahdin (slight exaggeration). But it was a heck of a climb. Funny how a 1500-foot mountain can seem taller than some of the 3,000 and 4,000 footers.

Couldn’t see Katahdin from the top -- too hazy. Kept walking. Really slow going -- no energy. Everyone decided they wanted to find a place to camp other than at a shelter for our “last night” on the trail (not counting Abol bridge and Daicey Pond). But we were running out of daylight hours and ended up at a stream by a road. Nothing special, but it was nice to all be together.



I was hungry. Ate two full Liptons with slim jim pieces and cous cous; then two desserts (granola bar and rice krispy bar). We all “cowboy camped” under the stars. It was still hot as heck. Too hot for my zero degree bag, so I put on my long-sleeved shirt and pants and slept on top. Then got under the covers and was roasting. Just couldn’t get comfortable.

Longshanks and his long shanks

Rabbit and crew walked past at one point during a night hike, never knowing we were there. Glad when it was finally morning, even though I was tired.

Day 162 - East Branch Lean-to to Potaywadjo Lean-to

Long day, but a good one. This heat is sticking with us. Could actually feel gusts of warm air this morning. Had two “little bumps” to get over before the terrain flattened out. They weren’t so little -- never are when you’re expecting them to be. 

Took a break at a sandy beach. I actually swam (or dunked). Then Dave found a big leech. The terrain eventually did get much easier, but it was no superhighway. Had lunch at a shelter with a waterfall, then I headed out on my own while Dave read the register. Good time to do some solo thinking.

Got to the Antlers campsite around 4:30. Huge and nice. Went out for another swim and discovered big blisters on my heels. Ouch! Got cooled off for the last 3.3 miles. I spent the time thinking about all the meals we’ve had at people’s houses and showers I’ve taken. 

Nice shelter with a great spring and level tentsite. The thermometer on the shelter wall read 77 degrees at 8:30 p.m. This is Maine in September? Revised forecast for middle of next week is not good -- calling for rain. We shall see…

Day 161 - West Branch of Pleasant River to East Branch Lean-to

Not quite as tough as yesterday, but a good day nonetheless. I woke up during the night to go to the bathroom, then had trouble falling back asleep. Mind was racing. Then Dave let me sleep in.

Kind of rushed to get my stuff together and eat breakfast. It was warm out already -- could tell it was going to be a hot one. Our first order of business was to ford the Pleasant River. A real, get-your-feet-wet ford. I chose to go across in my sandals. The water was ankle-deep and cold but felt good.

Then we began the long, somewhat gradual climb to the top of Whitecap. Four peaks, once again. The first two were the hardest. Had lunch after the second, then a long break with the crew on top of Whitecap.



Great view of Katahdin after much debate about which mountain it really was. It still seems pretty far away and looks enormous. The weather forecast is good -- no rain til Monday, then partly cloudy and colder after that. I’ll take it. We really could be home on the 13th.

Smittee has decided to come with us, and Bad Moon might as well. I think it will really help Dave make the transition back home easier if other hikers are around for a few days. Walked down Whitecap about five miles to a lean-to. Swagman didn’t catch up today, but I’m sure we’ll see him tomorrow. Terrain is supposed to get much easier.

Had a Lipton and a half for dinner, and two desserts (rice krispy bars). Don’t think my oatmeal for breakfast and lunch is filling me up.

Day 160 - Long Pond Stream Lean-to to West Branch of Pleasant River

Long day, but a good one. Slept great last night all snuggled up in my bag. Actually had boiling water to put in my oatmeal in the a.m. What a treat!

Hiked up to the top of Barren Mountain. It was quite a climb -- or at least seemed so, with my food-heavy pack. Still had four more peaks to go, plus a rough seven-mile up-and-down stretch that Wingfoot warns about. I didn’t think it was that bad at all. Slow going, but not too tough.

Beginning to wonder if I’ve brought enough food. Should have thrown in a jar of peanut butter as a filler. Oh, well, will just start digging into my Day 7 stuff now, in the hopes that I won’t need it.

Decided to push on 4.5 miles past the shelter to camp “down by the river.” Everyone’s here -- even the Mighty Finn and crew. Swag must have stayed at the pond a couple of miles back.

It’s supposed to be in the 80s tomorrow, with rain on Monday. Looks like everyone is shooting to finish on the 12th. We could be home on the 13th! Smittee might come over for a day or two before heading home.

Oh, we heard some sort of logging truck this morning, then when we were at the shelter a fighter plan (F15) flew right overhead. So loud! Kind of cool, but unexpected in the wilderness. Hand is still swollen but feels a lot better. Should be able to see Katahdin from Whitecap tomorrow. Then the terrain gets easier after that?

Day 159 - Monson to Long Pond Stream Lean-to

It ended up being an eventful evening. First came the thunderstorm and heavy rains. Then the gang came over to our cabin to drink beer and smoke. At around 9:30, the Pie Lady stormed over and yelled at us for being loud and disrespectful to her neighbors. We probably were loud, but she could have at least given us a warning first.

Someone ended up puking outside, and everyone pretty much left after that. Smittee crashed on the floor. Up the next morning for 7:30 breakfast. The Pie Lady was all frazzled with the number of people waiting and the “mess” in her kitchen. She yelled at us about “how many extra people did we have sleeping in the cabin who were coming to breakfast?” Oy vey.

Breakfast was OK -- eggs, bacon, hashbrowns, pancakes (some still gooey with batter), coffee, and orange juice. Had to go buy stamps at the post office to get cash back. Money has been disappearing rapidly up north.

The Pie Lady drove us to the trailhead at 9:30. Sign there said, “You are about to enter the 100-mile wilderness. Do not underestimate the difficulty of this section.” Yikes. Took a spill early on that resulted in the fingers of my left hand (especially the middle one) being bent back. Ouch. Swollen and pretty much useless.

The “wilderness” isn’t very different from the trail as of late. Had lunch next to a great waterfall. Then watched a female moose grazing beside a pond. Think I got a few good shots. Stopped one mile short of the shelter on an old logging road with lots of flat spots for tenting. Food rationing seems to be going OK. Crisp and cold air. Seven more hiking days left?

Day 158 - Monson, Maine

Got up around 7:30. A thru-hiker named Dusty gave us (and Kayak Guy, who's flip-flopping back to Hanover) a ride to the supermarket. Resupplying for seven days. Our heaviest food bags ever.

Smittee and Mary Poppins outside the Pie Lady's cabin

No tortillas, so I guess I'm having oatmeal for breakfast and lunch; Liptons for dinner. I'm cutting it a little close, I think, but am looking forward to the challenge of rationing my food and seeing how well I planned.

Bunch of people rolled into town -- Smittee, Happy, Leslie, Mary Poppins, Bad Moon, Smiles and Fiddlehead, Jbez, Jeremiah Johnson…Great to see Smittee. He said he was going to head back out, to finish with Satan on Saturday. But the power of town was great, and he ended up staying.

I know that Dave is really happy to see so many hikers. Now we won't have to wait at the end! Everyone is planning to leave tomorrow. It's going to be like a hiker parade through the woods. Tent sites will be scarce, I'm sure.

Eight more hiking days. I can do it. Took a nap in the afternoon, though I didn't think I was that tired. Went to the library and ordered those mounting squares so I can finish the wedding photo album when we get home.

Day 157 - East Branch of Piscataquis River to Monson

Cold night, but not too bad in the tent. Only 6.5 miles to Monson (the last trail town). Pretty easy walking. Spent a while talking to Gnome, who's going from Key West, Florida to Cape Gaspe, Canada. Lots of stories to tell.


 
After much debate, we decided to stay at the Pie Lady's instead of Shaw's. She's cheaper and had a cabin, which I much prefer over a bunkroom. Also, people said she's nicer than Shaw, who harasses hikers who aren't staying with him.


 
Excellent decision. The cabin is great for Swag, Dave, and me. TV room, fridge, bathroom. Got subs/pizza at the store for lunch and sat in front of the TV. We quickly realized we had many errands to do and little time for relaxing if we were leaving the next morning.

Dave said he wanted to stay another night. Though I am ready for this trip to be over, I know it was the right decision. I would have been just going through the motions -- and not very happily, I imagine. Did laundry, called home. Had hot dogs for dinner and watched a show about bears. Slept in a bed with a pillow!

Day 156 - Bald Mountain Brook to East Branch of Piscataquis River

Good night. Very happy to have my zero-degree sleeping bag, yet again. Up at 7:30. We were in no rush, since we had only planned a 13-mile day.

Started off by climbing Moxie Bald Mountain. Great views from the top. We think we saw Katahdin -- or at least its peak. It didn't stir any special emotion in me. Keep thinking about home. It's been getting pretty bad. I visualize myself inside -- sitting on the couch, sleeping in my bed, playing CDs, cooking in the kitchen, watching Kaya and Tigger. And I'm also starting to think about all the things I want to do -- already have quite a list going. I know it's going to make Dave crazy, but I have to get moving if I'm going back to work Oct. 1.

 
Had lunch at a shelter, then sat in the warm sun and watched some frogs in the water. Found out that the terrain up til Monson is virtually flat! It was pretty easy walking, but I think the three of us were somewhat tired anyway. Had to "ford" a few rivers -- I guess nothing on the trail in Maine right now is deep enough that you have to get your feet wet. I'm not complaining.


 
Got to the shelter and decided to push on two more miles to a camping spot so we'll be closer to Monson in the a.m. Dave informed me that he may not be ready to leave town on Tuesday! Just as I suspected. But part of me is tired, too. Maybe a whole day off would give me a different (better) attitude towards this final chapter of our journey.

After tomorrow, only eight more hiking days remain. I am looking forward to the wilderness, but I do want to go home. I told Dave he's in charge of how many miles we go per day. It really doesn't matter to me, as long as we're out on Day 7. We'll see what happens. Full moon tonight. An owl and pack of coyotes were making their respective bird/animal noises a few minutes ago.

Strange trail-walking thought of the day: What's the difference between a lake and a pond? Mountain and hill? Record and album?

Day 155 - Caratunk to Bald Mountain Brook

Longshanks and Swagman enjoy tea and toast

Easier to get up when it's not raining. Think we got up around 7:30. Then we had a real breakfast in the cabin. Toast with butter and jelly, bacon, eggs and coffee. I really miss toast. Funny how different it tastes than uncooked bread.

Dave grabbed a ton of dehydrated food from the hiker box. I was happy with what I had but took a few things.

It's always tough to leave a nice place, but I was ready. Dave, on the other hand, said he would have stayed another day if the cabin were available. Then he said he might want to take an extra day in Monson! The end is in and then out of sight, like a mountain in the clouds.

Considered doing the 100-mile wilderness on my own (at my own pace) and waiting for Dave at the base of Katahdin. Instead, I came up with a very reasonable seven-day plan for the wilderness -- should make both of us happy (I hope).


 
A couple miles into our walk, we started to talk to a Sobo. Then we heard branches snapping and leaves crunching. It was a moose! Then along came her baby! Then papa! I don't think they saw us and were headed right for us. Pretty exciting!

Uneventful walk with one decent climb. It's all old hat now, though. Nothing we haven't seen before. Got to the shelter around 5:30. Quite a chill in the air. Set up the tents by a bubbling brook. No other thru-hikers around. Thinking about home a lot -- what the inside looks like (and the outside, but mostly the inside). Will it be time for my electric blanket when we get home? Today is September 1. Feels like fall.

Day 154 - Pierce Pond Lean-To to Caratunk

Good night's sleep. Heard the loons calling at some point, even with my earplugs in. Woke up to fog -- couldn't even see the pond, but it burned off quickly.
 

Took our time in the morning -- even had a cup of tea. Then it was off to the Kennebec. The river was definitely bigger than I expected -- wouldn't want to cross it on foot. Steve "the Ferryman" was waiting on the other side and canoed over to bring us across. Turns out he did have a cabin available for the night. We took it!

The Ferryman and Swag paddle across the Kennebec River, where Longshanks is waiting on shore

Really hot, humid day. Cabin was cute -- bunkbeds and a double bed, small kitchen and bathroom. What more could we need? Chilled out til dinnertime, then headed a mile down the road to Northern Outdoors, where Dave had his bachelor party. Nice place; not as busy as I expected. Had a decent dinner with not great service. Two beers just about knocked me out.

Kind of glad no other hikers were around, because then we probably would have stayed longer. Got a ride back to the cabin just as a thunderstorm hit. So nice to be inside! Played a couple games of backgammon with Swagman. Then it was bedtime. Pillow!