Day 3 - Hawk Mountain Shelter to Gooch Gap Shelter

It was a long day, but a good day. Although when Dave woke me up at 6:50 a.m., I have to admit my first thought was, “Oh, no, we have to go hiking again.”

I collected my wet clothes for the second day in a row, managed to get dressed in the tent, and got ready to head out. It was cold at the start – definitely jacket weather. But after the first ascent, I felt like I was suffocating. It’s amazing to me how much longer miles seem out here than in the “other world.”

We did a little over eight miles today, and I could have sworn after four that we were done. It was a lot of ups and a lot of downs. But all of it was doable. Dave has been very good about keeping pace with me. We’re faster than many others in our group, but not all. Saw some nice views, some flowers starting to bloom, a salamander.

Finally made it to the shelter, only to find it was nearly full with no tent sites – shelter was on the side of the mountain. So we walked on a bit and found a great campground with a nice grassy area and two fire pits. Most of the gang ended up down here. Hung out by the fire tonight. The plan for tomorrow is 10 miles – and it’s supposed to rain again. How badly will I need that shower Monday in Neels Gap??

Izzy and Nate

Dave, Matt, and Nate

Tim, Orion, and Dave

P.S. – We had a good night at our camping area. Everyone is getting to know one another and having fun hanging out. We seem to be a group now but don’t know how long that will last – as people have different hiking paces. The group now is Gail “Chinook” from Alberta, Canada; Charlie, from Bristol, England; Dennis, from Ohio, using the Golite system; Izzy from New Hampshire; Murph, from Vermont (originally from Hingham); Matt (young guy) and Nate (older guy) “Dream Walker” from Michigan; Ryan and Chris “Orion” from Florida, two guys just out of college; and Dick from Maine, whose brother had to leave the trail today because he wasn’t feeling well. We lost Tim and Donna, who were only out for a few days, but were a big part of this group. Tim may be back to do the rest of the trail someday. I hope he keeps in touch if he does.

Day 2 - Springer Mountain Shelter to Hawk Mountain Shelter

Well, we cooked two Lipton meals and boy did they make a good dinner last night. It was so nice to take off my soaking wet clothes and put on my long underwear, fleece, dry socks, and hat.

At 7 p.m., three boys came running up to the shelter and asked if there was any room. We said yes and started moving everything to the loft. Right around that time, the sun seemed to be poking through the clouds. So we walked back up to the top of Springer. These huge, amazing clouds were moving in different directions – one was headed straight for us and moving fast. Within moments it had enveloped us, and the light was gone. 

Back at the shelter, it turned out that no one came to join us. But we slept in the loft anyway. I read for a few minutes before turning out the light. Wore my hat but not the balaclava. Was pretty comfortable all night.

Woke up at 8 to a beautiful day – no coat, although someone said rain was predicted. Went back to the top of Springer again. Now I understand why the plaque is there. There is actually a beautiful view – it just has to be clear to see it.

View from the top of Springer Mountain

Continued on to Stover Creek Shelter, took a break, then proceeded to the next one for a total of 7.6 miles. It took longer than expected but wasn’t a particularly difficult hike. The trail seems to wind around mountains rather than going up and over. I’ll take it while it lasts.

Stopped for lunch (peanut butter and cheese on pocket bread) near a waterfall. When we made it to the shelter, it was well-populated with hikers – some who had started from the top of Springer. There’s also a private school group and a boy scout troop around. Everybody sort of does their own thing setting up their tent and cooking food. It was only 3, but we were done for the day and so were a lot of others.

Purified more water, ate some Ramen, and hung out. There are a number of us who seem to be hiking at the same pace – Charlie and Gail, two guys whose names I don’t know, Izzy. They all seem nice, but no one matches our demographic. I know there are lots more hikers to meet. It’s raining again but at least the tent was already set up before it started. Time for bed.

Day 1 - Amicalola Falls to Springer Mountain

It wasn’t a good night, but at least I didn’t suffer alone. Dave couldn’t fall asleep either. 

That’s funny – we had split the bottle of wine and were exhausted from the past few nights. I had on my long underwear and put on the balaclava to keep my face warm. Was comfortable and warm enough in my sleeping bag, but just couldn’t fall asleep. Never looked at my watch, though. I just didn’t want to know the time. 
  
Oh, it rained all night. I’m sure that didn’t help things. Got up at 7:30. Boy, is it a challenge for two people to get dressed and pack up their gear without being able to stand up (or sit up, even). Lost my only spare contact lens. We headed to the lodge to pay for our site and eat some grits, as we promised Bob, but the kitchen was already closed. So we decided to start the approach trail, despite the rain. 

 

 
I remember now that Leslie told me how the trail in Georgia is like a path – not at all like the rocky ledges of Blue Hills. And it is a pretty clean path. Only a few parts were tough – and not for long. I know I was sweating profusely, but it was hard to tell with the rain pelting my face and soaking my hair. For most of the approach trail, Dave and I were alone. We bumped into a couple of people here and there, that’s all.

We stopped at the first shelter just to check it out. There were three people there with their gear all spread out. They were engrossed in books and didn’t seem too friendly. Since it was only 2:30 and I wasn’t tired, I suggested we move on to the shelter at the top of Springer Mountain. Dave thought it would be too crowded, but I wasn’t sure. 

We reached the summit and saw the AT plaque set in stone. Was that really the top? The official start of the AT? It didn’t seem right. With all the trees and fog, there was no view at all.

We continued to the shelter. There were two people packing up their gear – and that’s it. We had the whole place to ourselves (for how long, I don’t know). 
 

Someone told us that it was 10 degrees on the top of Springer Mountain last night. Hoping for warmer temps tonight. We have hung our food from the ceiling so the mice can’t get it. Plan to sleep in the loft, especially if others arrive. My feet are cold and a little stiff, but no other physical complaints. It’s been a long second day, but a good one despite the wet, soggy weather. My clothes are soaked, my pack is wet, my boots are caked in mud. Can I last 178 more days? Will the heat be worse than the cold? Will I be able to sleep tonight? Only time will tell… 

Side note – I find it amazing that I can really survive with 30 pounds worth of gear (of course, I also need some of Dave’s 40 pounds, which includes the tent, stove, and water filter). But we have everything we need – a house, a bed, a kitchen cabinet, a sink, a toilet, clothing, shoes, reading material, camera, etc. It really makes you think about the way you have been living and the things you think you “need.” I know I have at least five garbage bags full of clothes at home and look forward to giving a lot of them away! One more hour of daylight…

Day 0 - Amicalola Falls State Park

After a very stressful night and a restless sleep, morning came – the day had arrived. Not our wedding day, but it almost felt like it. Two hours to get everything together and make sure all the bases were covered for the next six months.

I did some vacuuming, put the rest of our personal belongings in the basement, and took my last (not even hot) shower for some time. Diane drove us to Logan Express in Braintree and we were on our way. Now we know why Airtran is so cheap – very no frills. But the flight was fine. I even dozed off a few times.

We were supposed to meet Bob Lore at the baggage claim area – didn’t see him at first. But then he came over and introduced himself. He’s in his 50’s, I’d say, and has been section hiking the trail for the past nine years. Dave found Bob’s name on the Trailplace web site. He said he would charge us $30 for gas and wear and tear on his vehicle. But I’m sure he lost money with the tolls he paid and fuel he gave us – not to mention the Sam Adams, bottle of while zinfandel, and doughnuts he bought us.

We rode in comfort in his grey van and held on tight when he needed to brake suddenly. But we made it here in one piece. Bob offered to take us to REI if we needed anything. And he stopped at a big shopping plaza where we could pick the venue of choice for our “last supper.”

Dave chose the closest pizza/sub shop. Only four kinds of subs on the menu – all meat! Had to get a veggie pizza. On the ride to the campground, Bob told us that we’d be coming upon a view of the Appalachians. He looked back to see my reaction. Wow! From that location, they looked mighty impressive/intimidating. But I’m really getting excited.

All Bob could talk about was how nice people are and how they really make the trail. Well, he is a genuine trail angel. The Amicalola Falls State Park campground is huge and nicely set up. Other than one other tenter whom we haven’t seen, we have the place to ourselves. There’s a clean bathroom with a shower. And the start of the approach trail is just around the corner. 

 It is cold (hat and gloves weather) and starting to sprinkle. The ground is hard, but my sleeping bag should be warm. And, of course, there are my two pillows.

P.S. – Without water, my pack is around 28 pounds; Dave’s 37. Not too shabby.
P.P.S. – Bob called us a “neat couple.” He also asked if we were in college.